…frustrating, isn’t it?
Put the trains away for a few years, and now they are back out again.
I can post a rough diagram of the layout by RRTrack if anyones interested, but anyway…
Its hard to explain where the loss of voltage is…because its in alot of placles, and not just far away from the lockon. The loop is relatively small and shouldn’t require feeders. (Its a 12x8 L shape) It seems to me that the remote control switches are a drain on the power, and my locomotives have always struggled making it over a switch, and sometimes even lose power when hitting a switch. All the insulator pins are in correctly, btw. On one side of a switch, the power is fine, but once it crosses the switch, the voltage seems to drop and the train slows to a crawl. Then when it clears the next switch, it perks up agian.
Am I making sense? I’ve tried cleaning the rails, with some success, but its just frustratingly difficult to get a smooth running engine.
You know what I mean, when it goes from 90MPH…to a crawl…then back to 90MPH.
Not sure if you will be able to give me some advice, but thanks in advance.
wishes he had O-gauge track
Hi, sounds like a problem I had on my layout. I decided to make one switch non-auto by isolateing the switch motor. Another, I changed out. Sounds like the switch motor is continualy drawing curant and trying to throw as long as it is fouled (occupied). Could possibly isolate the switch motor and bridge back to the track with a delaid resetting relay. Anybody else want to take a shot at gkrangers’ problem? Yellowduck
well its definitely the switches…when i replace them with manual ones, the loop runs fine.
stupid nickle plate road starter set…had to come with O27 didnt it…
is there any way to run the switch motors off another power source like on the O switches?
Yes, but make sure they’re in sink on transformer plug polarity.
The pins that hold the track together can be loose enough that there is not good contact for the whole layout. The solution is multiple lockons, starting with the place where you most notice the voltage drop.
I only set up my 0-27 at Christmas but I have the exact same problem.
Dave Nelson
After attaching some extra lockons evenly around the loop, track power is great and it runs smooth. After tightening and fastening the track in place, it should work even better.
I’m planning to just run 4-5 lockons to each of my two loops. That may be a bit overkill, but I like smooth running trains…and Its important for them to run at a constant speed, especially when doing some switching.
Here is an old trick to keep Lionel track together – use “twist ties” (like you get with garbage bags) to keep the end ties together. Make sure they do not stick up and foul the trains. Also make sure they are not so tight that they make the track kink up. Just tight enough to keep the track from working loose
If the twist ties are not long enough go to a garden store – there are longer ones that are used to keep plants up on stakes and if cut in half they should be the perfect length.
The best thing is the twist ties are thin so they do not create a bump if tucked under the tie, and they are cheap, throw em away when you take the layout apart. The color (usually green) is a downside. I suppose a quick swipe with a magic marker to make them brown or black might help a little bit with that.
Dave Nelson (HO’er but 0-27 too at Christmas)