Hey guys
I wanting to buy some new locomotives, but I have 0-27 track with some 0-27 curves in my layout but not many. But a lot of the new locos will not run on 27 curves. Should I just start changing out the 27” curves to 42” and stay with 0-27 the 0-27 is real old too most 50’s & 60’s or should I starting changing to 0 gauge. I’m adding to my layout making it bigger too. Thanks Gary
“O” is needed for loco’s/rolling stock with very deep flanges. If you don’t have anything like this, you can stick with wider radius O-27 profile track.
Depends on what size of locomotives and rolling stock you want to run. Anything will operate on O27 track–straight sections of O27 track, that is-- but not necessarily on O27 curves and through O27 switches. Any small locomotives do just fine on O27 (I have O27 curves on my small living room layout, and operate Lionel 0-6-0 Docksides, BEEPs, K-Line Plymouths and Porters, Lionel’s small ALCO diesels, various types of trolleys, and that sort of thing).
If you’re attracted to large steamers and diesels, you’ll pretty much need to consider track (actually, curves and switches) that will handle longer units with more axles. Generally speaking, mid-size units can negotiate O36, O42, and O54 curves, but a number of larger locomotives made today require O72 or larger curves.
It’s usually best to go with the largest-radius (or diameter, in the case of O gauge) curves you can fit in the space you have available. ALL O gauge trains look a whole lot better operating on wide curves–the widest of which still pale in comparison to the curves used by nearly all prototype roads.
The reason was that I would really like to get the MTH Santa Fe E-8 ABA. But it operates on 0-31. I would get the F-3 but I want one that has a smoke unit. Thanks Gary
For the F3s or E8s, you’re going to be better off with curves of a wider radius than O27. However, if you already have O27 track, you can stick with the straight sections, which will be fine (and actually look better scale-wise than O gauge tubular) and then buy some wider-radius curves. I’m not sure, but I believe there are O27-track curved sections available in wider radii.
Hi! I would guess that a lot depends on the ‘budget’ and space. O27 fits “my” budget. If you have the space, the O27 does come with a 42" Diameter Curve. All the best.
You can purchase 3-foot lengths of 027 and bend them to any radii you wish. There are turnouts avail in 027 in 042 curves. However, I don’t know if anyone makes 027 turnouts available in 054 or 072.
So unless you also made your own turnouts, you’d be looking at 042 min. radius.
Other option is to splice in an O tubular 072 turnout; a very easy operation; then you could have 072 radius in 027 track profile except for the turnouts and run any loco from all toy train companies.
I personally prefer 027 track as the profile is lower than 0
Ok so I stay with 027 and start swapping out my old turnouts with 027 42" turnouts
& 0 72" turnouts. I wanted the E8 ABA and the 4-6-0 ten wheeler steam engin they work on 0-31 curves. so I would be good right. Thanks all & David
I use all 027 track and run some very big engines. The real key is to use low profile 027 switches. This is where most engines will hang up.
If it means making compromises in your track plan to get 42" diameter curves, I would make the compromises. Especially if you plan to run E-8’s. They’ll take sharper curves but look awful silly doing it. 027 profile rail is more realistic than 031 profile rail because the 031 profile is too oversized to be realistic. Adding ties as Spanky has done makes 027 profile track even more realistic. K-Line (now K-Lionel) makes 042 switches with 027 rail that are really quite good.
It’s tempting to crowd a layout with as much track as you can squeeze in. However, it becomes cumbersome to operate and squeezing in structures and scenery can be quite challenging. You end up with scenes that look like they were mushed together with an earth crawler. Operating trains on broad curves is much more enjoyable. You get the most out of them.
For both S Gauge and O Gauge the minimum diameter has to be 42".
Anything smaller is far too limiting.
Andrew
I too am an O27 guy. Keep in mind that there are also 54" curves in O27 profile along with 42 and 27.
I continue to use my 27" curves so that I can “do more” in my limited space. However, I have found that I have to be really careful what I buy. Luckily I don’t buy all that much anymore. But to site an example: I bought a K-Line PRR caboose and it derailed going around 27" curves. I had similar experiences with motive power too.
I now ask for a confirmation that an engine will handle 27" before I buy.
I wish I had the room for all 42 and 54 but it is what it is.
-
walt
-
walt
K-Line made 072 curves in 027 rail size.
" I now ask for a confirmation that an engine will handle 27" before I buy."
I pretty much do the same thing, for the time being at least, because I just don’t have the space for anything larger. Since I’m a big fan of “critters” and other small engines, it doesn’t pose any sort of problem for me.
No one has mentioned Marx O34, which is still easy to find.
K-Line did make O27, O42, O54, and O72 in O27 profile.
Good point, Bob. The O34 is really useful track. Matching switches are out there, too, and they work decently, by all accounts.
Don’t forget Gargraves in all of this. It has the profile of O27 but offers more radius options plus with the special pins, mates with the tubular so you can still use your O27 for sidings, yards, etc. Add some ties and ballast and a little weathering to the rails and the O27 doesn’t look too out of place mixed with the GG. It is a little more expensive, however.
Poppyl