1033 Transformer, revisited

Classic Toy Trains Forum
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Hello and let me start off by apologizing. I know NOTHING! I searched the web for manuals, diagrams, anything that could help me find the information I’m looking for but to no avail. The best information and writers came from your site and I joined hoping to find what I needed. I’ve been researching the forums trying to find the answers to my question, but since I’m posting, obviously I failed.

Please don’t let that be a reflection on y’all – I may have looked at my answer without realizing it. You see, you know what you’re talking about; I’m clueless.

Up for a story? My mother-in-law handed me this box and asked me to get it to work. Great. She’s got two sons that grew up with this stuff and probably can do it in their sleep, but I’m not going to get involved in that why or wherefore.

In the box was a bunch of 3-rail track and some trains (and accessories – none electrical), the locomotive being a “O” gauge Lionel 252 in what I estimate to be decent condition, although the front light is missing. It seems to be free from damage or defect and actually well-lubricated.

I bought a used 1033 and two CTC lockons and here we are. How do I hook this thing up? I do I make it go around and around and around? HELP!!! Please!!

Sorry. Ok, the tracks have these metal pins – do I need to put a pin in all three holes per segment (two outside, one inner), or is it sufficient to do only the outside rails? As for the U and A posts, oy! I don’t know which is which.

So, attached please find a photo showing the locomotive, a sample piece of track, one of the CTCs, and the 1033. if someone could please break this done to the simplest possible terms, it would be greatly appreciated. Please let me know if you need additional information from me!

Thank you!
Happy New Year!! 2005? What happened to … oh forget it. I need more hours in the day!!!

Brick

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Welcome to the forum!

I can’t see your photos, but think that I can still help you.

Place the 1033 so that the handles are pointed towards you, and the 4 metal teminals are away from you. Working from left to right, the terminals should be U, A, B, and C. If you look on the metal faceplate of the transformer, you should see little letters in front of each terminal that corespond to these.

Run a wire from terminal U to Terminal 1 on the CTC lockon. Then run a wire from terminal A to terminal 2. Plug the transformer in, turn the handle, and the train should run.

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With regard to the pins(sorry, I missed reading that earlier), you need to have one in the center rail, and one in at least one of the outer rails. It’s best to have them in all three rails, but, if you run short, you can make do with one center and one outer.

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[#welcome] to the CTT Forum.

Yes, you will need metal pins in all three holes. Extra pins can usually be purchased at a train store. Take the track with you to the train store and they should know what you need, if they don’t run out the door. [:D] The two outside rails are connected by a metal uninsulated tie if you are using old Lionel Track. BTW, the picture is a red x. [:(] Click on Sunday photo fun and find a posting by Spankybird and the instructions for posting pictures is given on a web site.

This 1033 transformer is listed on the chart that I have posted below. Since you are not trying to run a museum quality layout that makes it very simple. Connect one wire to the A post and one wire to the U post. After you get it running and you want to do more, the heavy duty electrical geniuses on this forum will tell you how to wire it. [:D]

Lionel Transformer Chart - Click on here

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Warning–if you place the transformer with both handles pointing toward you, hook it up, and then plug it in, the train will start off at full speed! I’m sure that Ben didn’t mean for you to do this. The right-hand handle, the black one, should be pointing to the right so that the voltage is off when you plug it in.

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Wow.
Thank you for the ultra-prompt reply, the welcome, and the great guidance. I will confess I may not have a chance until this weekend to try it out (and first re-charge the fire extinguisher), but I shall do that and let you know how it turns out!!

As for the photo – my apologies, I made a bad assumption that this interface would load the photo much like Ebay’s does. This is why I’m not an air traffic controller.

Very kind of you. I shall let you know either way!!

Brick

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Thank you as well for the welcome and the speed of your reply.

So you’re saying I DEFINITELY need 3 pins per section; 2 won’t do it? if it helps, this whole thing is metal, no insulation, just lots of great ways to electrocute the entire family! Come here Rover!! Drool on this ya traveling flea circus!!! Hey Timmy! Got your super-soaker handy?

Sorry. I like mayhem. Where were we? Right, doing Kavorkian’s work.

If the tracks and pins are just what steel? Metal? Without insulation, do I still need the three pins per section?

I know, wait until Saturday and if the train runs… Hmmm, better get the first aid kit re-filled as well.

Brick

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[Full speed? I do not mean to mock the hobby, but do these things really crank out the — ok, how do we measure speed? And this locomotive has not seen daylight since maybe the mid-60s.

Ok, get the video camera, too. This could be worth $10,000 on AFV!!! Maybe I’ll get my son to lay across the track. If the voltage doesn’t get him the impact will!

However, I think the image of both handles downwards was just to give me orientation for the poles.

But y’all are great! Friendly, informative, and patient. Thank you, gentlemen!!

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It’s best to have pins in all three holes, but it won’t hurt anything to have one missing. I do it all the time when I’m in a pinch. You just need to make sure that you have a pin in the center rail, and one in at least one of the outer rails. Do this and you’ll be fine.

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Brick,

As Ben noted, three pins are desirable, but you can use just two.

There must be one pin in the center rail to conduct power (“HOT”). The center rail is insulated from the metal ties below it by pieces of insulation.

The outside rails are also used to conduct power (“Neutral” or “Ground”), but they are attached to the metal ties without insulation. Therefore you need only one pin in an outer rail to complete the electrical circuit. The third pin is for better mechanical integrity - three pins hold the track together more firmly.

As far as electrocution by rail goes, remember you’re dealing with no more than about 20 Volts. You can put your hand on all three rails without harm, even with the train running. BUT-BUT BUT…if your hand is wet (from dog drool?) or you’re wearing a ring or watch, enough current can flow to cause a severe burn![:O] Keep an eye on the dog and the kids (not necessarily in that order).[:)]

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If worse comes to worse and you’re out of pins, find a nail that’s close to the size of the pins and cut the head off and stick that in the track. There’s nothing ultra-special about the factory track pins; they’re just steel. It’ll give better mechanical strength and better electrical continuity to have it there.

You’re not there yet, but I would definitely recommend cleaning the track with a kitchen scouring pad (don’t use sandpaper or steel wool), and clean the wheels on the locomotive with rubbing alcohol. That’ll give much better conductivity and a lot fewer sparks. Plus the train is more likely to run.

I hope you enjoy it. It’s always great to hear stories of old trains coming up from the basement or down from the attic and getting to roam the rails free again.