The previous thread had gotten way long, so I thought I’d post progress reports on here. As a recap, I’m building a 10x12 irregular donut that looks like this (slight mods have been done in regards to the shape of the structure as construction has progressed):
First night of construction- I divided the irregular shape of the structure into 6 “tables,” and I form cut 4 inches of foamular to match each.
Starting to cut the last plywood cutout. Due to slight mods in other sections and slight inaccuracies while drawing, I had to derive the shape of the last plywood cutout again:
Good fit, notice my furry helper who pooped sawdust for a day:
I shortly after cut the 1x4 plywood framework, however one portion of 1x4s warped…and I had to work a lot, so a hiatus was taken. After revisiting my gameplan, I jumped in again and began building the framework:
You can see the matched 1x4’s for one of the sections… The warped 1x4’s (that played a role on only one of the sections) have posed a minimal problem in the final fit checks. 3 down 3 to go here:
More to come… thanks to all here for their advice and invaluable help!
Today and tonight I tackled the most complex of the 1x4 support structures and performed the final fit check before raising it all off the ground.
Just finished building the second most irregular section… the underside view:
Half way through the last section. I cut all the 1x4’s for it tonight after ensuring a good fit after the all the other sections were done. A slight mod had to be done, and here we are… had to get a bit creative on this one:
Done! Getting ready for the last fit check:
Good fit! Now to get it all off the ground in the coming days:
That looks like your having a lot of fun, wish I could be there working with you. So far it looking great, can’t wait to see more. Do you plan to finish the train room off before or after the bench work is up?
Sam, finishing the basement (which is partially finished from when we bought the house) isn’t on the radar for at least another 5 years… and this is located in the utility room area which likely will never be finished as long as I’m in the house.
The layout is designed to be able to be disconnected and moved with just disconnecting the wires, breaking apart (using a fine saw) the surface plaster, and cutting the track. While still a fairly large task… it’s not the end of the world (or even worse the end of the layout that I’m spending so much time on).
Sure would be nice to have the help when putting the legs on the big section! Going to have to call the neighbor to help me when it’s time to get that thing up on it’s feet. I’m researching adjustable table feet to go on each leg which should help with some good accuracy in the final, leveled product.
I’d suggest you make that set-up modular. Put legs on each section. Bolt the sections together. That way if you have to move it when you finish the basement you won’t have to damage it.
If there is any way you can finish the ceiling, you should. A finished ceiling will help keep the layout clean. You would be amazed how much dust will sift thru the floor above. Good luck on the build.
Paul, I’ve incorporated your suggestions on the mainline, as well as one of them in the yard/town/service area, comments after the scan:
I’ve already bought the turnouts that were required for the version in the first post, so that had to come into consideration. (#7 L curved: 1…#6L: 7…#6R: 13…#5 L: 6…#5 R: 3). They are all Peco Code 83, with primarily #6’s being used in the mainline and 5’s in the yard type areas. The L curved 7 was required for maintaining the arc in the yard entry (yard entry is R6 (splitting the "town service from the yard), L curved 7, then further splitting with L5 and R5).
Starting from the top portion of the layout just after where the siding joins back into the double main, I believe I originally had that as a pair of L turnouts for the crossover for the runaround, but someone told me that may lead to a derail problem. Frankly, I don’t see the physics of how it could, but I still shifted it to the 2 R’s that you see in the first post. This now is back to a more original position…
After the yard entry again with the left crossover, followed by the left turnout into the siding, that one on the other hand does raise a flag on a derailment with your modification. Did you use a double slip in your modelling? In my mental “chair flying” (as we call it in the aviation biz), I believe the R turnouts as previously pictured may work just fine for the runaround.
4: I really liked your idea on the runaround on the right side of the yard that is the area that also services the town, so I shifted the 5Rs that I already hadin another position in the yard up to that. Excellent idea that saved me some serious headaches likely.
The stuff that you did to the left side of the yard is very interesting, but that’s not actually the fun
That is exactly what I’m doing! … except I will have to break through (read: precision cut) some plaster and track in between each section prior to separation. I have such a tremendous volume of foamular left over that I will not have to do a complete plaster/newspaper overlay. The foamular stacks already match the section boundaries on the lower 4 engines, and that will continue (albeit with more pain… but it will def be worth it) as far up as the terrain needs to go. It will be covered in sculptamold. Max grade will only be about 3 degrees… All 6 of the individual tables will be joined by carriage bolts
I’m currently engineering my wiring method which will allow ease of disconnecting when that time does come. It will likely involve drilling holes in the 1x4’s for the wiring bundles to route underneath the individual sections and “popping up” as necessary for track feeders. In between each section I will have basically just a male female connector that will be slung underneath the joint.
While great planning is necessary… this is a great learning journey for me as well in engineering all this stuff to meet my needs. Loving it!
it might be to late, but i advice you to build a lift out section. During the build and later when operating an easy access to the operating pit, without having to duck under, will turn out to be an asset.
Again if possible, i would try to make the run around in the yard longer. The first crossover might be build further down, next to the double siding.
Paul, a liftout section was considered, but it did not make it to the final plan. With the design of the layout, ducking under will not be problem vs. the limitations it would create in what I want to do scenery wise.
I’ll fiddle with a longer runaround in the yard tonight.
Here we have the benchwork coming along… I installed all of the legs except the ones on the large section. I still have to brace the legs that need it, and as well as install furniture feet for levelling:
I just came across your thread. It looks like a good plan and your bench-work looks pretty good also but I have a recommendation. I would add some diagonal bracing to the legs to make it more steady. Also, as someone who spent 41+ years in the HVAC industry as a Serviceman and Service Supervisor, I have a couple of pieces of advise re. the furnace and water heater before you go to far.
1) That water heater appears from the pictures to be sitting on a rather flimsy looking stand. It looks to my eyes like a 50 or possibly 60 gallon water heater and when full, would come in at around 650 to 750 pounds. Possibly a bit more. I would prefer to see it on a stand made of 1" pipe with a couple of pipe flanges secured to the basement floor.
2) The front of the gas furnace looks like it may be partially blocked by the bench-work. There are MINIMUM clearances required to service gas equipment and to combustible materials. This info can be found on the rating plate on the appliance. If your furnace fan b
How do you plan on accessing the WH for service? Pilot light lighting?
same for the furnace…can you have a serviceman be able to get in there to do work without moving the layout? What about filter changes?
As mentioned by another poster you need to leave a clear space around the furnace for proper ventilation and positive airflow. If you don’t there could be code violations (if you have a home inspector over for an appraisal or insurance purposes…even the HVAC repair person could refuse to work on the unit due to potential code violations)
Have you allowed for any terrain to go below the plywood surface? Do you anticipate or even want that?
Have you given any thought to lighting? What sort of fixtures, locations? It’s easier to do that now while things are in the early stages, rather than later when you have track and scenery in place.
Do you have power outlets available? I couldn’t see any in the pictures. Now is a good time to add extra outlets
Will you be adding backdrops? Will these attach to the layout or the walls?
Have you thought about future plans to finish off the space with drywall/ceiling? Is that even in the consideration?
My first task of the afternoon was to rearrange the basement and try the new layout location… low and behold, it’s like it was designed to go in its new location!
Here is the equipment area now where the layout was:
Here is the new location where the yard equipment and such area was… It really frees up access to the room and the design around the water heater and such works really well in allowing better access to the layout. Plus, it is no longer blocking a window… and I think looks better:
So, next up is installing the legs on the main section, leg bracings, and then i’ll need to get on the electrical and ceiling work.
I really like your layout and attention to detail. Just 3 suggestions. 1, move the layout legs in from the ends of the sections so that the layout has a cantilevered section at each end. this will cut down on warping of the longer sections as there will be shorter unsupported spans. It will also allow for connections to be made from one set of legs to another between sections which will stiffen the legs and can be used to keep the ends of the sections in alignment. Ex. an 8 foot long section would have the legs underneath at the 2 foot and 6 foot points. the longest span is now 4 feet instead of 8 feet.
2, use a short piece of track between sections when building so you will have a couple of expansion joints between sections and if you have to move it or expand it it will make that easier and more pain free. When doing your scenery if all that needs to be cut is the top layer it will make it easier still.
3, while everything is apart and can be separated paint all of the wood parts on all sides even if not exposed to view or covered with scenery later. By doing so you will seal allot the wood parts and dramatically reduce your seasonal expansion and contraction due to moisture and temperature variances.
