I saw two 1880’s locomotives out there on eBay today. They are both Brass but the reserves have been met and they end today in about 5 hours. Just thought you may want to take a look.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=78178&item=5961795514&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=78178&item=5961015302&rd=1
Kevin
Thanks.
I know nothing of Brass except it costs a lot. If I were to get it, what would need to be done. Change out the motor and paint it. Can they be converted to DCC?
I’ll bet if they are well done they would look great.
Both locos look like they have a lot of tarnish. Probably not worth the effort.
You would probably have to remotor them. They also will probably not have the same level of detail as a more modern brass engine. Expect to spend some time tweaking the mechanism and cleaning the brass for painting. Engine from this era would have a Russia iron boilers, brass trim, and multicolored cab and tender.
Having said that they are definitely 1800’s era engines and under $200 are not a bad buy.
Dave H.
Tarnish isn’t really an issue. Hit it with some fine grit with a small sandblaster (like Badger sells for $50 or so), blow it off, rinse it, and spray the base coat. Elapsed time? About an hour. Tarnish reall won’t hurt anything if you use a nice solvent based paint like Scalecoat, but it is ‘proper’ to get rid of it.
As for DCC conversion, it looks like the Kidder would be easier to convert than the Blum, but both will probably need new can motors for a host of reasons (age being one of the biggest, ease of conversion coming in second).
If you feel like a challenge, go for it. It’s not all that hard, assuming that the model is in good condition to start with. I’ve done a couple, and I plan to do a couple more once I un-basketcase a 2-8-0.
-dave
Spacemouse,
I had just read your post about the lack of models available for your era when I saw these. The Ken Kidder will probably sell for about $120 when it is over, but that is not that much more than some of the plastic locomotives out there. If you are going to paint it, you may not even have to worry about the tarnish. I was thinking that these would be for running not for collecting. I have a brass 2-8-0 that I am about to attempt a conversion to DCC.
Kevin
Chip,
Those are some mighty deep flanges. What code track are you using? Dave
These are models of one of the earliest locomotives in Japan, and are thus a model of a 3’6" gauge prototype reproduced with standard gauge wheel spacing. This makes them pretty small. There are a lot of them around and they shouldn’t cost much but they are relatively crude models by current standards. The low boiler version of the Bachmann 4-6-0 would be a better bet for a US prototype.
Peter
The Bachman 4-6-0s are both turn-of-the-century locomotives, and might look a bit modern for an 1880s layout.
If you’re looking for something from that era, one cheap alternative is the old Mantua “General” (search Ebay using those two words as your search terms); three or four of them pop up per week, and they’re generally pretty affordable.
If you want brass, there are a few good options: one appearance, I would recommend the Hallmark Colorado Midland Class 115 2-8-0 and Class 104 4-6-0. These pop up regularly on Ebay or at larger brass dealers, like www.caboosehobbies.com. Also good is the NP F-1 class 2-8-0 - PFM did one a few years ago; they also did an 1890s GN G-1 class 4-8-0. PFM’s “Golden Spike” commemorative set ( a pair of 4-4-0s) is usually pretty affordable.
And of course, Tyco did both 4-8-0s and 4-6-0s that have an 1880s look - should be able to find them on Ebay without too much trouble.
On the other hand, if you don’t mind plunking down a few thousand dollars, there’s always the PSC Golden Spike Commemorative set…
best regards,
Rob
Few thousand…I like quality but I’m more in the Spectrum price range. I just don’t seem to want to model the trendy stuff.
Unless someone talks me out of it, I think I’ll be running 100 flex track. It seems like it just might be a little better for keeping Lil Guy on the track at Warp 5. Seriously, my son can be a bit erratic in his engineering.
Go to www.precisionscaleco.com and take a look; the Golden Spike set should be on their front page, if memory serves. It’s MUCH too expensive to be trendy…but it’s certainly pretty to look at (I model 1913, so I have a lot of 1880s and 1890s-era equipment myself).
The secondhand brass models I mentioned are probably at or just above the Spectrum price range, depending on their condition; www.caboosehobbies.com has a good assortment, as does the “Piermont Division” (google for link); Ebay periodically has good buys. Frankly, you can’t go wrong with the old die-cast “Generals” for an 1880s layout.
I use code 83: it looks a little bit better, and I don’t think it’s any less reliable than code 100. I don’t think the requirement for absolutely perfect trackwork will manifest itself until you get into the Proto-87 level of realism.
rripperger,
I spent some time I really don’t have runnign through the Caboose Hobbies site. I found several 2-8-0s that seemed to pe period specific. I didn’t find the Golden Spike.
So what is the deal with Brass? I could get a Broadway…
Speaking of the centennial set there is one ending in two hours on eBay. Two brass locos for the price of one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5961324345&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
The deal with brass is that you get greater variety for a higher price; ten years ago I would have added “quality”, but the fact of the matter is that new diecast engines are generally better runners than used brass.
I recommended it primarily because I thought you wanted 1880s stuff; if you want something more modern, I’d suggest you go with a BLI or Spectrum model.
Don’t get me wrong, I appreciate the direction you gave me. I was just a little in sticker shock.
I really like BLI (I run them at my club), but I have never tried their engines. A two truck climax might be coming down the pike one of these days.