I have an Athearn locomotive that is nortorious for the screws holding the coupler pocket lids in place to loosen up. I have to check said screws occasionally to make sure all is well
Does anyone have a solution? One I was thinking of is to coat the threads of the screw or the hole in the frame with a small amount of diluted white glue & allow it to dry…forming a coating on the threads that would act similar to “Loctite” when screwed in but still be able to be remove the screw when necessary…
will it allow the screw to be removed at later date with out damaging the threads or worse… stripping or snapping off the head of the screw trying to loosen it
Looking at their website Blue is for screws 1/4" - 1/2"
they show a Purple that is for screws less than 1/4" and low strength
Another option which will still allow removal of the screw when necessary is contact cement. However, don’t use it as recommended on the can or tube for permanent holding.
Instead, apply a little of it to the threaded portion on the end of the screw, let it dry for 15 or 20 minutes, then re-install the screw. The cement will not form a full contact cement-type bond, but will provide an interference fit, which will keep the screw in place, yet allow the screw to be removed when you need to do so.
This same procedure can be used of you’re continuously losing the knuckle springs in your Kadee couplers. Apply a minute dab of contact cement to the retaining nub on the base of the coupler, and, if you wish, another on the nub on the knuckle. No need to let it dry here, simply re-install the spring.
If the spring eventually gets damaged due to other causes, remove it and the excess contact cement, then re-apply and install a new spring.
Please do not use LocTite brand products, 242, 271, RC-609, red, blue, purple, or whatever on models with good paint or plastic pieces. These are industrial products for industrial uses.
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Tamiya makes a thread locker for plastic R/C cars that has served me well for decades of model building.
If it’s into metal, Loctite is fine. It will come off. I’ve taken apart numerous items that had a blue threadlocker on them, either Loctite or a knockoff, on screws far smaller than 2-56, and they came off no problem. If the screw threads into plastic, use the Tamiya.
I’ve been using Harbor Freight Blue Threadlock on my locomotives for at least 10 years and it keeps the screws in very good but also allows you remove them easily. The Harbor Freight Threadlock comes in a red bottle but has Blue printed on the label. The color of the Threadlock is Blue.
Kevin, Liqui-tape comes in a small bottle like other Microscale products. It looks like white glue. It is marketed as a “remains sticky” product and works like tape. I use it to hold loose smoke box covers on and it is also good for holding a loose floor in a boxcar for example.
It is nice for adding a bit of friction to a crane boom that will not stay up.
Laugh if you must but, I use what I have on hand…Testors plastic glue… It won’t fasten the metal screw to the plastic but,it will hold it in place when the glue dries and will turn freely if you need to remove the screw.
My solution would have been to glue the coupler box shut, but that would only complicate maintenance matters.
I’ve done it a few months back with a Kadee coupler box with the Lima mineral wagon Kadee conversion, having no screws on hand. I would agree with screws, use the Loctite thread-locker.
An alternative to locktite is just bees wax. Itnwill hold. Warm up the wax to liQuid. Warm the screw if it is metal , dunk the theads then screw it in The cooling wax will create a weak bound that will hold it. plus it has other uses around the shop like coating small drill bits to keep them from binding and breaking while drilling. Especially in resin. Makes a great easy to remove sealant too
My solution for Athearn locomotives is a bit more work, but if might solve all your problems.
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I file the bottom of the frame flat, then I mount a 20 series underset shank Kadee coupler in a 242 coupler box with a nylon screw. This fully insulates the coupler from the frame, and you can snug the screw so it will not come loose.
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Also, Kadee couplers always work better when installed in a Kadee coupler box.
