22" radius

In my search for this size track I have found none. I am not quite sure how to go about getting 22" or even larger. I do know I can not do it with 18" track. I know this is a pretty easy question but I just need a little direction… Joseph

PS I am modeling HO

If you are modeling HO scale, it should be easy, you must be modeling in N scale. I guess N scale would be more difficult. Order online or have the hobby shop that you go to order it. Use Walther’s website to findout what companies make it.

Order 22" radius, as ericsp suggested, or… buy flex track and curve it yourself. One word of caution however: you’ll get a much smoother curve if you solder enough pieces of flex track for the entire curve together before bending them. Otherwise, the last couple of inches either side of each joint won’t have the same curvature as the rest of the curve – those last couple of inches just don’t want to bend and rail joiners alone aren’t strong enough to force the rail to bend. The worst case scenario (if you don’t solder the joints before hand) is a nasty kink at the joint and you’ll have lots of derailments there.

Try it. You’ll like it. [:)]
Chuck

Sorry HO scale

Joseph,
Atlas, Bachmann, Lifelike and Kato all make 22" radius sectional track with built in roadbed, available at many on line suppliers and in many hobby shops. At least Atlas (and probably several others) also sell 22" radius sectional track without the roadbed, which should also be available on line and in the hobby shops. In your area, I would suggest that you try M.B. Klein, AKA Model Train Stuff to fill your need. You can check them out online at http://www.modeltrainstuff.com or at http://www.mbklein.com then navigate the menus on the left to find your track.

The other option you have is to use flexible track (on cork or foam roadbed, if desired). This allows an infinite number of possibilities for your track plan. You can bend it to almost any radius you could ever model on your layout (down to about 15" radius for some brands). Flex track is available from Atlas, Model Power and Peco, at least, I’m sure other suppliers offer it, too.

Most of the above options are available in code 83 and code 100 track, and even some in code 70. The exception to this is the “roadbed” track, which is generally only offered in one rail size per manufacturer.

Is there a special guide to ensure a 22 or 24’ radius??

I used several pieces of Atlas 22" radius sectional track soldered together to make a 22" radius curve out of flextrack.

Gordon

So just buy a few peices to give yourselve a guide or I just thaught of getting a peice of cardboard and just cutting out a 22 or 24’ circle to help with the curve. I want to mske it asy so when I am ready fro my benchwork I can just go with it… Joseph

The secret to using sectional track is to make sure the joints are lined up correctly and you don’t get a kink . The easiest way to check this is to put your eye down at track level and sight through the joint. It should look like a smooth curve through the joint. When deciding where to lay the track you can use the track itself as a template or cut some cardboard templates. Remember that radius is measured to the centerline of the track.
Enjoy
Paul

Dear Mr. jlcjrbal,
Although there are good people on this forum, whom always seem to be willing to help beginners, from my point of view, you should be attempting to educate yourself about this hobby through the use of books and other reading materials. The questions you’ve asked are common and very good questions! However, they are better answered by experts whom have gone to the trouble of writing books on these subjects. Go to your hobby shop and look for one of the many books written for beginners. Since there are many, page through a few and see if one stands out as making more sense to you on how to proceed. Kalmbach Publishing (the publisher of Model Railroader Magazine) is a great publisher of these types of books! An on going and current article taking place in Model Railroader Mag. now, is addressed at beginners and will also be very helpful! It is entitled; “The Turtle Creek Central Extension”.

The problem with asking these types of questions on this forum is, for every person whom answers your question, you will likely get a different opinion on how to proceed. Since few (if any) of these people have ever written an article for beginners, their ability to express themselves and convey their thoughts to you will be questionable! You are better off taking your information from a single source, someone whom knows enough about the subject, but, also knows how to communicate his thoughts and ideas to you in book form! After you have experiance, you can experiment with different modeling ideas.

I say the above, not intending to step on anyone’s ego! I think if you all think about it, you will agree there are better places for Mr. jlcjrbal to get this formative information and that he can get all this information and considerably more in the many books on the subject!

jlcjrbal

Though I have indeed never written a book on the subject I have jotted notes in the margins several times.
If I were you (a condition contrary to fact and therefore requiring the past subjective tense) I would drill a small hole at the one inch mark of a wooden yardstick and another at the twenty-three inch mark of same. Establi***he end points of your radius (keeping in mind that the measurement for a full 180 degrees is 44 inches from rail center to center) and mark the origin of the circle at the appropriate point. Place a small nail or some other stable point through the yardstick at the one inch hole you’d drilled and use it to pin the yardstick to your origin point. Put a pencil or some other marking device through the second hole and with a sweeping motion scribe the center line of your arc between the end points you’d established. Lay your cork roadbed along that scribed line and lay the soldered pieces of flex track using that as your guide.

The circumference of the circle will yield the length of your flex track assembly. Calculate that measurement using the formula {diameter X Pi} with Pi established as 3.14159. A twenty-two inch radius circle has a diameter of forty-four inches and a circumference of 138.22 inches. Your flex track assembly for a half circle would measure roughly 69 inches. For other than a half circle you calculate assembly length by finding the percentage of the circle you require (desired degrees/360) and multiplying that result against 138.22 inches.

BTW I believe the cover of the textbook I learned this from during my electronics engineering studies was green. No undue offense intended DeSchane but often times those who write books on a subject have done reference in other sources and pass it along to their readers with their own voice.

Use the forum as a reference tool but always remember that the knowledge offered has it’s source rooted either in books the respondent has researched or from instructio

Dave (dwRavenstar), I really was trying to help Mr. jlcjrbal! What are you doing?

Calculus to figure how long to make a section of track! Pre soldering flex-track together before bending! The first is un-necessary and overkill, the second won’t work! Come on, were trying to help Mr. jlcjrbal, not make his head explode!

Mr. jlcjrbal, this is an example of what I mean by all the variing opinions!

That’s not Calculus, it’s simple Algebra.
“were trying to help” looked more like you were sending him on his way and offering nothing. The jist of my advice was to establi***he placement of the track, how he gets there is his own business. As far as the calculations I hardly think that having the dimensions handed to him already figured is going to cause any cerebral difficulties.

He can ignore or accept either, both or neither of our thoughts.

Your effort has certainly displayed the risk to a respondent that a posted request for information or help might create. As I’d said, listen to all or none but follow your own head into the task. I really fail to comprehend how a question from a fellow modeller can be so quickly denegrated into a platform for an attack. Guess it’s like everything else in life, you gotta consider the source.

Dave

DuShane has his opinion and so do others. There is more than one way to skin a cat and this fourm provides many ideas. Reading books and magazines is good and helpful, but they still are only the writers opinion. jlcjrbal , keep asking questions on this forum. Others will learn too from the answers

EVERYBODY MAKES 22" R SECTIONAL TRACK.- BACHMANN, KATO, LIFE LIKE, PECO, ATLAS, TRU SCALE, MODEL POWER.

Because it fits on a 4x8 plywood sheet.

WHERE ARE YOU LOOKING? any LOCAL HOBBY SHOP that sells trains has it.
WHAT are you going to do when you search for something that’s hard to find? ??.

Relying solely on books have severe limitations:
One problem with looking in books is understanding the question. You have to understand the topic sufficiently to know what book to look in or even what subject to look under.
You have to have access to that book when you have the question.
Whether a book is written for “beginners” or “professionals” it is limited by the fact that it usually has only one explanation. If you cannot understand that explanation, your stuck. I once took a course in automatic controls that was taught by the author of the course’s text. If you asked the profesor to explain something from the book, he simply repeated the term you couldn’t understand to begin with.
I retaught myself engineering math after being out of school for almost ten years by consulting two different math texts and Schaum’s Outlines. This provided me with three sources of explanation of the same information.
Posing a question on this forum usually offers a lot more than three explanations at no extra cost since the participant has already paid for his internet access.
Any book, no matter how complete, can contain only a limited amount of information. The information available on the internet in general, not just this forum, is nearly infinite.
Nobody should be discouraged from asking a question here. There may be some stupid or ill informed answers offered, but there’s no guarantee any one book is going to provide all the answers. It might provide just enough information to still get a person in over their heads. A little bit of knowlege is a dangerous thing. That maybe all a beginner’ book may provide.

I have seen curve templates for sale in hobby shops. I don’t remember who made them.

look around 22" radius is out there. I have it on my Eastern RR

People have “relying solely on books” for hundreds of years. There weren’t any “severe limitations” that I remember then or now from reading a book. The internet hasn’t made books obsolete yet.

jlcljbar, take DeSchane’s and Don Gibson’s advice and go buy a few books. Maybe an Atlas track plans beginners book, a wiring beginners book and a scenery book. Then go to the various track manufacturers web sites and see what they have to offer. Then maybe go visit a hobby shop and at least look at what you’re trying to buy (they probably have many catalogs that would help you too). You may even see a better or different way to solve your radius problem.

Don Gibson is right. Everybody makes track approximately that radius, if not exactly that radius.

If you’re uncomfortable with flex track, use sections.

Nobody’s discouraging him from asking questions. There are just some questions new guys can solve themselves by having the book in front of them, or maybe going shopping. I wired my first layout with the above mentioned Atlas wiring book right in front of me, and got my trackplan from one of their beginner’s HO trackplan books, and I haven’t looked back.

j, you’d probably save $100 by investing $50 in how-to-manuals.

m

22" radius sectional track is available, and ‘Ribbonrail’ makes nifty metal templates for alighing the curves.
‘Roadbed’ track is available from several manufacturers - I have some Bachmann EZ Track with 22" radius curves on my ‘L’ shaped workstation.

Jim Bernier