I know the differences of the two frames, my question concerns about the light. Heres what I don’t understand with the 2243 frame, according to the K-line repair book, it shows that the bulb is mounted in the little pedistal that’s cast to the frame. This won’t work on my frame! It seems that you can’t get enough twist to keep the bulb in place, as where with the 2333 frame it has a socket that fastened to the frame which is totally different from the way the 2243 frame is. Now, I have the mounted socket for the 2333 frame. What/how would you go about making this work without butchering the 2343 frame? Thanks
I don’t understand the part where you say you cannot get enough twist to install the bulb in the 2243 frame? It just won’t go in?
Roger
You have mentioned three model numbers for the “two frames”. Did you mean to type “2243” instead of “2343”?
I don’t understand just what the problem is either. But, if there is something wrong with your 2243 casting that can’t be fixed, you could do what I did when I needed to isolate my headlights from the frame. I got a new general-purpose socket and cut and soldered the bracket to create a brass tab running alongside the socket up to the top of the bulb. I shaped the end of this tab to fit into the depression just below the rim of the cast socket, drilled a hole in the center, and secured it to the cast socket with a machine screw. This placed the bulb in the same position as it was originally, but with the lamp and socket horizontal, not vertical.
Yea, I made a typo. The cast socket on the 2243 is goofy to say the least, if I try to install a bulb I cant get it to stay in. Looking inside the hole, there is no 1/4 turn section that should hold the bulb in place. Just a little lip that’s about the size of the pin on the bulb. It seems like my only alternatives are to cut it off and install the socket the way the 2333 frame is built, which Im reluctant to start chopping on, or bore out the hole so that I can install a socket that the 2333 uses. Does this make a little more sense? Thanks
I examined the casting of one of my locomotives: The cast socket is not designed for anything like a quarter turn. Each bayonet pin goes down a groove that is about 1/16-inch wide. At a depth of about 1/8 inch the width of each groove abruptly doubles, on the clockwise side. That creates the ledges that are supposed to hold the lamp in. I suspect that your ledges are not as abrupt as they should be.
You could try shimming the lamp with a little heavy paper or thin cardboard, to create enough friction to keep it from rotating off the apparently rounded ledges. But don’t try to force the lamp any farther clockwise than it will easily go–just a few degrees, not a quarter turn.
Or you could do as I suggested above, non-destructively install a new socket that puts the filament in the proper place. If you want to go that way but couldn’t follow my description, I’ll be happy to take another run at it.
The spring &/or fiber contact board may have been replaced or are binding. Feed the wire up through the socket and check all tolerances, & while you’re at it check the bayonet keyways for burrs or debris(they will be much easier to see with the contact out of the socket - you can see how little is needed to turn the bulb & lock it in).
Rob.
I just reamed the hole out to fit with a socket. Only one side of the hole had a groove for the pin, the other side didn,t. What little area the was for the pin to fit wasn’t even as wide as the pin on the bulb. The hole even seemed to large for any type of bulb to fit and stay. No worries as it works fine now for what I’m making. Thanks