I know there have been numerous topics on minumum radius, all depending on kind of locos and rolling stock being run. So, please pardon my laziness.
I plan on running 2-8-2 Mikado, some Pacific, Mogul and maybe Consolidation on my layout set in the 1945-1955 tranistion era plus some 4 axle diesel.
The minimum curve I’ve used is 24". This is considered “conventional curves” according to 48 Top-Notch Track Plans.
I know more is better. In your experience, will this be enough?
If you haven’t already done so, find and read John Armstrong’s book, ‘Track Planning for Realistic Operation.’ It’s invaluable for ideas on everything a modeler needs to know to create a believable empire.
In my experience, 24 inch (610mm) radius is adequate for your era, since you won’t be running 89 foot hi-cubes and the like. I’m running 2-8-0s, 2-8-2s and six-axle (3 truck) diesel-hydraulics on 610mm radius now.
Passenger equipment should be limited to 60 feet or so, more for appearance than for true operational problems. If you model PRR, their P54 series cars are ideal.
One thing you should do is provide transitions to your curves. Briefly, offset the tangent (straight) track about 1/2 inch, then connect it to your curve with a spiral easement. If you can’t offset the tangent outward, you might even consider reducing your curve radius by 1/2 inch or so to insert spirals. I’ve done this so many times that I simply eyeball, but there are numerous sources for more sophisticated ways of forming spirals, everything from using a springy stick to semiopaque mathematical formulae.
It should. I have both an Athearn and BLI 2-8-2 Mike and they will run on both 22 and 18" radius curved track. tomikawaTT is right. 24’ should be just fine for stock up to 50’, maybe 60’ in some cases.
Tom
For the most part, keeping to 24" radius will allow you to run almost anything. Certainly the locos you mention should have no problem. Maybe some very, very long cars (as mentioned above) could be a problem, but most manufacturers will say clearly if cars won’t run on 22" radius, much less 24"…
You’re in the zone where it’s down to appearance more than “can it go round the curve”… My personal take on that is long equipment - articulated steam, 80’+ passenger cars, etc. will look toylike on 24" curves. Now, I should add that I think they’ll look toylike on almost any radius curve we can hope to realistically use in our endeavor!
Example: I have some 40" radius curves, and my 80’ passenger cars still look strained pulling around them with trucks swinging quite a bit out and diaphragms pulling apart… An articulated steam loco is still going to swing it’s nose way out off the track. Even at 40" radius, you’re going to need nearly 7’ to execute a 180 turn, but you’re still talking about a curve that, if translated to prototype, would likely have extreme speed restrictions, if long equipment was allowed on it at all…
So I don’t, personally, recommend crippling your operating options by insisting on 60" radius curves to make things “look” better… If you’re worried about how the trains look going around curves, I’d lean more toward hiding curves (even hiding a part of it will help preserve a better “illusion”) rather than trying to use huge radii and ending up with a lot less operating flexibility…
I agree with the others; 24" is lots, even as the minimum stated for the rather long 2-10-4 configuration of the BLI C&O T-1 and the PRR J1. I can run my Niagara 4-8-4 on my 22" curves with no problems.
You’ll be fine.
I should probably add that I have 22" minimum radius on my mainline for hidden track and 30" for visible track. Certainly have no operating problems with any of my rolling stock, including my 80’ passenger cards and my 2-8-8-2 articulated… More indication that you’re fine with 24"
Thanks all for the inputs and confirmation. That brings up two more questions. I’ve read about easements and have figured out how to turn that feature on/off when necessary using XtrkCad.
Question 1: In the picture below are points A and B the “easement” spirals?
These are sections of track that XtrkCad automatically inserted when I connected this curve, which BTW turned out to be 26" radius.
Question 2: I have searched all of the familiar web shops for 2-8-2 Mikados. I’m having trouble finding someone, even BLI, where they indicate they have them. I’m specifically looking for one in the MKT series. Am I left with getting an undecorated one and decaling it myself ?
Thanks again
-Tom B