I Don’t agree with tip #14 , Picture page 58, I use sectional track, I plan ahead and I only use reverse cruve’s where they need to be. I only use large diamiter cruve track. my current RR use’s 9,10 & 11.5 ft cruves on the main line. My ridge line use’s 6.5ft dim. with a reverse cruve in for effect since it go’s around a big rock then back along the wall. Remember tip #25.
Dave
Yeah, I used sectional curves ( 9 and 10 ft D) and long straights for my layout. That was before the dual rail benders came out. I did belly bend a few of the straights to get the right curve and it worked well for me.
Now that the dual rail benders are out I would recommend only buying long straights except for the very newbies.
I thought it was funny Kevin used his Dad’s layout (the Woodland Railway) as a frequent example of what not to do. I’m sure he appreciated that! [(-D]
-Brian
Still like to see a picture of Marty or You belly bending.
Toad
I’ll be sure to take one for you when I’m putting down track on the new 7/8’s layout in the next couple of weeks.
-Brian
I’m somewhat miffed by Tip #14. I’ve used sectional track since changing to “G” gauge and have no regrets. The Tip #14 photo on page 58 is toy like because the S curves have no function or purpose and has nothing to do with sectional track. The toy like appearance could have been avoided by following Tip #7. However I live by Tip #25.
#25, Rob
But Dave, if sectional and flex are both about the same price per linear foot, why buy $8 a foot pre-curved ready-to-use track when you can buy unwieldy flex-track and a $200 trackblender so that it that takes twice as long to lay track with? [swg]
Yeah I thought that tip was a bit nutty, I swear they are assuming we all have a full acre of real estate to build on…[sigh]
Even though the vast majority of my track is “flex”, sectional, both curved and straight, still have their place. Like Vic said, the cost per foot savings on “flex” has vaporized in the last couple of years, and so has the incentive for devotion to flex. The only advantage I see to flex (anymore) is fewer connections, both mechanical and electrical.
[banghead][banghead]
Given the topic, perhaps I can shed some light on this.
On the surface, there’s nothing wrong with using sectional track. As evidenced by the opinions stated here, plenty of railroads have been built using it, and they are everything their builders desire. One common mistake of doing so, however, is sections of track as illustrated in the photo. It’s not hard to find railroads with those squiggly sections of track. But that’s not the only reason that tip was included.
When I was a wee lad building my indoor HO railroad, the notion of even thinking about using sectional track was strictly verboten. None of the magazines wavered from that sentiment. Flex track was the way to build a railroad. I never even once considered using sectional track, though it was readily available. That sentiment translates very easily to the garden, and with the tools available today, it is just as easy to do as in the small scales.
I believe the beginner owes it to him or herself to (pardon the cliché) think outside the box of track. Yes, sectional track is a quick and easy way to build a railroad. However, as quick and easy as it is, it can also be equally limiting. Time and time again, I see threads on this and other forums asking about track templates, CAD systems, and things of that nature for laying out track. I find that process to be both tedious and completely unnecessary. Features which a builder might want to incorporate get tossed aside because the sections can’t be made to fit.
Every garden railroad I’ve ever designed was laid out with a garden hose, tape measure, and sketchpad. This approach gives the builder an infinite amount of freedom when it comes to planning. Curves can follow the contour of the landscape or existing garden, yards and passing sidings can be built with gentle curves to better fit the available space. There’s simply no need to even have to think about whether one can get track sections to fit. If you’re brave enough to build your own switches, it’s even m
Thank you Kevin! Another well written thing I can chew and spit about. Two thumb’s up in Da Swamp!
Toad
Thank you Kevin for your responce, I too used alot of code100 flex track in my HO day’s and plan on pico flex when i start on my indoor On30. with that said, Fewer joint’s yes, $$ to spend NO, a 3ft section at a time is easyer then $'s for 5-6ft SECTION of flex, Yes flex would have helped when I built my main yard, But I had some leftover cut sections from my 7.5 foot long dubl crossover, that after installing on DNRR V7 I didn’t like. Will I use Flex for my cruves doughtfull, I still have plenty of 9,10 & 11.5 diamitor sections left for my expanchion’s. By the way I use Aristocraft Stainless and Yes I put in all those littel screw’s. I do use Split jaws only at cut sections and at isolation gap’s on the ends of switch’s.
Dave, Not Grumpy today
Kevin; I agree with your response 100%, in fact I would venture to say our model railroad lives have followed similar paths. However instructing an unseasoned person; “Avoid using sectional track” seems a bit harsh, especially when faced with money for a locomotive or couple of cars or a rail bender. Or in my case the club rail bender was always checked out, I’ve never seen it. My post is intended to show that satisfactory track work can be done with sectional track. I feel it’s not the tools that make good work; it’s the person operating them.
I enjoy reading your articles, Rob
I too enjoyed the tips section [:)]. Well thought out and great advice to beginners in the hobby. I am, however, in favour of using set curves (sectional) and I think that used carefully it can add its own atmosphere to a railway. If one has a narrow gauge line it is quite prototypical to have tight curves and, to a degree, bumpy track. Go your own way - was another tip. Research real railways - was another. Where georgrphy allows, flat straight track is always wanted, though we are doing our thing in the space we have. There are many examples of small railroads that wind in and out of the countryside in order to save money . Cuttings and embankments are other examples of this thrifty perspective.
Perhaps a better tip would have been - choose narrow gauge if space is limited and also limit the length of the train. (Having said that train length was in one of the tips, I think) ‘What looks right’ is not always easy to pin down with a general comment. There are many ways to reduce the ‘toy train’ effect - weathering comes to mind. Though this area is probably not a beginners concern.
Ah, I feel better now. [soapbox] Just an opinion.
Highlight of the mag. for me is the monorail, big cheer for the out-of-the-ordinary.[tup]
Thanks for that,
Matthew.