Here is an idea I am considering/starting. I currently live in a small apartment and thus space is quite limited. I have a plan of working on 2’x2’ “scenes” to make/weather/and get as detailed as possible. I’m thinking the plus side to this is I can take my time on each piece and when I think one board is complete, I can connect it to another one and start a-new. Now the only downisde is that it is almost impossible to run any trains(HO) on as it is just too small of track at this present time. Eventually, it will be a highly detailed/completed sections but for now it is a small scene with potential. What do you guys think of this idea? Is it a good way to put together a model railroad?
Why did you decide to use a 2 x 2 module? You should consider a 2 x 4 foot size. Even better is 2 x 8 feet. You can purchase 2 x 8 foot 2" thick blue foam for your base at most big box home improvement stores.This will give you enough space for a small yard or a small industrial switching area and is still small enough to move easily.
On the one hand, if you eventually have a layout, that 2 foot depth is just about right and the segments you would be building now could potentially drop right in. I use 2 ft by 4 ft domino segments and in a few spots I did use a 2ft by 2ft for spacing purposes.
On the other hand you are basically talking about diorama building. If you are thinking about track on such small isolated pieces, you would need to be settling in on track spacing issues from the git go that you might not care for once a real layout is started
It is hard to imagine any meaningful running on a 2 ft by 2 ft in HO. N and Z for sure.
What I would consider instead is cutting that 2x2 in half to make two 1 ft by 2 ft. End to end or in an L there could be at least minimal operation if you want to lay track and run some trains. More to the point forget that track and focus on buildings etc and you could still focus on scenes that could hopefully “drop in” (or on) to a later layout as a sort of plug in.
I think that could be a good way to get started. 2 feet is a little short for HO, I would try for 4 feet if you can manage it.
If you’re so inclined, you might want to see if there is a local module group that you could join. In which case you would want to follow their standards.
i would look at your space you have available and try to build as many as i can 2 by 4 or 2 by 6. that is a good size that most people can move around by themselves.
Though others are right in pointing out that 2x2 is too small for operations in HO scale by themselves, it’s a fine size for building diorama-like scenes that you plan on integrating into a permanent layout later.
The 2x4 size people are mentioning are what you’d want to do if you plan on plugging your sections together with others’ and operating them as part of a modular layout, since that’s a standard size settled on by modular builders. But if you don’t plan to operate on them until they’re built into a later layout, go for it!
So your system certainly is feasible. Only you know what your work and storage constraints are. Trust your judgment and plan the module on either side when you are designing the current one.
My layout is made up of 8’ x 30" segments bolted together.
There is a lot of “overhead” associated with each module - primarily benchwork and power connections between each of the sections. You also need to provide edge-connection for tracks. This will take time, increase costs and add weight, before you even start with trains and scenery. For that reason alone, I’d also suggest larger modules.
You might want to look into either the NMRA or the Free-Mo specifications for modules. If you build your modules to the specs, then you will be able to attach them to others and run as part of a larger layout. Free-Mo, in particular, might appeal to you if you want to build modules of odd shapes and sizes, since it specifies the height and edge connection parameters but not the overall shape of each module.
Good Ideas alla round. The reason I picked 2x2 as opposed to 1x2 or longer is that this will allow me to put more detail into the scenes surrounding the railway. I much prefer for more depth then just background…) Thanks for the thoughts![:)]
Rather than a 2x2 module, consider smaller scenes that are one building or so, of irregular size. When you build your layout you can plug in the various diorama’s.
I would also suggest that you design your layout, at least part of it, now. Then you can build sections and end up with something coherent at the end rather than a string of squares with a track connecting them. A room size of 8x8 or 12x20 would be a safe start. 8x8 is a spare bedroom and 12x20 is a one car garage.
On the other hand, if you wnt with the Freemo concept, they have lots of odd shaped filler pieces that would be ideal for your single scenes. Wolfgang Dudler on these and other forums does a lot of Freemo and has all sorts of odd shaped wedges of modules. used to bend Freemo layouts around rooms. I would suggest searching for his posts and track plans, they might be right along the lines that you are looking for.
Since module length is not specified in Free-mo, the trade-offs mentioned become readily apparent. Our HOn3 Free-mo group has found that 3ft long modules are easy (4ft is doable, but not as easy) to set up all by yourself. Set up the legs (free-standing assembly), then lift and set the module on top of the legs (which fit into pockets on the underside). But as was mentioned, each section/module comes with overhead. Longer sections/modules reduce the overhead. 6 to7ft is about the longest practical length for bigger vehicles such as minivans and larger SUVs. But setting up a 6ft module takes 2 people or a “system” for transporting, loading, and setting up the module. By “system”, I mean something like a dolly or rack and/or hinged legs.
If you are going to build modules at home, why not build modules that can join with others at a setup? The large layouts at a setup - especially in Free-mo - rival the operating opportunities of a club or large private layout at the cost of a module set in your own home. And since the layout is usually different at each setup, you never get bored with exactly the same operations.
Yes, modular model railroading has created a new interest and passion for the hobby in me.
I went 2X4 and it has worked out great! You can still run the train a bit with 2X4. I now have 3 modules that measure 2X10 in length with the third one turned sideways. Makes a good HO switching layout. I took the
Wisconsin & Southern Troy Branch
Published: November 30, 2007
and crunched it to fit in my 10ft space. It took some selection of what I wanted and modification. I added a turn table and changed the industries. The nicest thing is it is light and portable.
RMax
BTW: Once I figured out the measurements the local Lowe’s cuts all the wood and I just screw it together.
My suggestion would be to get several of your 2’x2’ sections so that you can connect them, on whatever you are going to use for benchwork (tabletop or whatever). Then layout your trackwork over the group of them. This way you would be able to run some trains while working on one section at a time. Basicaly you’d be runnining on plywood central on the yet to be worked on sections. Have your area where you plan to store them so that you can store all the sections, pull out the one you want to work on or pull them all out to get a little R&R running trains. You wouldn’t even have to finish one before starting the next.
This is sort of the way many folks do their layouts. Have it so trains will run, then start doing scenery work in one location, then another, whether next to each other or not is not important.
Contrarian that I am, I can tell you that I have seen photos (and a track plan) of a 1:87 scale model railroad that captured the essence of one of my favorite prototypes on a layout 600mm square. In that space, the modeler built a basic loop with an engine house, wood rack, water crane, passing siding and two spurs, one of which was the landing for a high line bringing logs out of the woods. He also had a typical deck girder bridge and a short tunnel.
The prototype? Kiso Forest Railway, 762mm gauge. The standard? HOe (HOn30) with tiny four wheel ‘critters’ and log disconnects about the size of warehouse dollies. Typical of Kiso country, the scenery stands on end (the module was as high as it was wide!) and the curve radii were miniscule. The modeler didn’t have many of the area’s trademark cedars, but the ones he had were awesome.
So, where did I see it? In Tetsudo Mokei Shumi, the Japanese-language model railroad magazine. Our Japanese brethren routinely pack incredible detail into a space barely big enough to cover a place mat, a skill I would like to have.
I think this is a fantastic idea. Sir Madog, a member here, is doing wonderful work with tiny modules for N-scale. I don’t see any reason that you couldn’t do the same in HO.
One thing about this if you find that the smaller module isn’t working for you after you do a couple, than you can always consider upgrading the size of the next. I think the important thing to do is get started.
My only reason to go with a 2x4 module is there are less track joints to deal with. On a 2x2 module you have track joints every 24". Although you could leave the track as the final detailing member and do it when you put the modules together (unless of course you plan to disassemble them.
can you please repost the link to your blog? I can’t find it, and I think it would be extremely useful for the OP (and others) to see how it all comes together for you. It’s simply a great idea for the small space modeler.
