I have a Roundhouse tankcar kit from which the e=weight has vanished.
Should I weight it the same as a boxcar or flat car… and how much please?
I have all sorts of stuff from tyre weights to offcuts of brass to provide weight and a vast range of glues so those questions are answered. I will also keep the weight as low as possible to keep the centre of gravity down.
All that said does anyone have any tips for running these cars please? Just about everything else I have is 50 ft or longer.
I weight everything, box cars, tank cars, cabooses, passenger cars, flat cars, everything to the NMRA HO recommendation, one ounce plus 1/2 ounce for each inch of car length. You are in HO?
I’ve been familiar with this standard for a long time but one thing that I’ve never seen explained is how do you measure the car, by its wheel base, body length, or coupler to coupler. Also, if you are in between, is it better to overweight than underweight? Open cars are problematic because they weigh differently depending on whether they are loads or empties and it is not always easy to find a suitable place to add weight. I use 1/4 ounce lead weights in my boxcars but it can be a challenge to find a good place to add weight to tank cars. Some of my tank cars don’t have remove parts to allow access to the inside of the tank. I’m thinking about drilling a hole in the bottom of the tank to allow insertion of BBs and an adhesive. I’ll then plug the hole and turn the car right side up so the BBs and adhesive settle in the bottom of the tank. When the adhesive cures, hopefully it will hold the BBs in place.
For this kind of thing with a tank car that can be opened I use RoseArt modeling clay. I put the car on my postal scale then put pieces of the clay on the scale as well until the weight I need is reached. I then open the car and distribute the clay along the bottom of the tank concentrating most of it over the trucks. I then reassemble the now properly weighted car.