I’ve been anxiously waiting for the day when owning a home 3D printer would become a reality. It looks like that day is very close if not here already. I would like to hear if anyone has any experience with this or any other devices that they are using to create parts or scenery.
When looking at the thing and trying to look at the specs, they do not give the tecnicals at all like material that can be used, max print size, etc. etc. etc.
They may have improved accuracy but the last that I heard/read the 3D printers could only hold a tolerance of +/-0.010". That would be good enough for rapid-prototyping for testing out a concept but not for fine detailing. You’d end up with visible “machining” marks like you would rough-cutting with a milling machine. For fine detailing you’d need something in the +/-0.001 or < range.
Tom
The emulsion printers will do that detailing.
About three quarters of the way down on the page you’ll find a button for “Specs”.
Bernd
I looked at the specs: X & Y-axis has a resolution of 15 microns (0.0006" - very good) and the layer resolution is anywhere from 50-350 microns (0.002"-0.014" - good to not very good).
I suspect you’re still going to see some “machining” marks as the layers are laid down; more or less contingent on the material you use for fabricating the model. Again, good for rapid-prototyping but may not be as suitable for models that you want to have smooth sides - e.g. boxcars.
Pretty nifty gizmo, nonetheless…
Tom
hit that button and didn’t work, will try again, thanks
Just read that you can turn supporting material on or off using the software. That’s something worth noting if you are desiring an open shell or enclosure.
Tom
If I had $350 burning a hole in my pocket, I’d be very tempted to pull the trigger. I’d be interested to take an intro course or catch up on the YouTube viewing in order to get up to speed on what it takes to make it work.
They don’t give any close-up shots to show how good or bad the layering is. I’d never spend money on a filament extrusion machine when you can send files out to a printing service using high-end machines worth hundreds of thousands of dollars.
One thing to keep in mind is that to make a flat, horizontal surface, the extrusion machines have to zig-zag back and forth hundreds of times. Other machines just lay down a smooth continuous layer of liquid resin which is immediately cured by UV light. The result is a much better finish for large flat surfaces.
A printing service in San Francisco called Moddler uses an Objet machine that gets results like the pic below. Notice how smooth the top surface of that base is.
Steve S
I recently purchased some PRR catenary towers that were made at Shapeways. As Steve says above, I’m not all that interested in owning a machine so much as being able to lease time on someone else’s machine, which is basically what Shapeways does.
The towers were very reasonably priced and, for me, the details were just fine. The finish was a little “grainy” but these really didn’t require a super finish.
Since getting these there have been more developments in 3D materials that can produce a finer finish. Or metal, clear, ceramic, soft, etc.
Have Fun! Ed
What material did you use?
These were made with white strong and flexible material.
There may be other choices now but when I bought them that’s what was offered.
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/designdyne
Material choices and descriptions are here:
https://www.shapeways.com/materials/
More recently I bought one of the anchoring catenary supports,
I had looked into Model Memories etched brass or fabricating my own cat. supports (from the articles in Keystone Modeler) and then found these a few months ago. I don’t plan to do the entire layout under wire but for photos and such they work great. These are only given a light coat of Krylon primer. A heavier coat or an intermediate gloss coat then flat might reduce that grainyness a bit. Still, the effect is great and that’s good enough for me.
I will eventually sink round 5mm neodium magnets into the scenery and superglue a thin metal strip (I have iron removed from transformer windings) to the bottom of the cat. base. If I bump them or need to remove then… no worries.
Hope I didn’t hijack the thread. I just wanted to show one example of what can be done.
The thing about Shapeways is you can contact someone to do your design or send in your own 3D cad work. I wouldn’t invest in a machine, probably couldn’t get the size or quality they can offer, either.
I would love to see some two- and three pipe PRR style handrail stanchions!
Thanks for asking, Ed
Personally, I wouldn’t buy an extrusion printer for any model work. They are great for coarse, less detailed work but simply aren’t up to the task of printing fine details or accomplishing decent surface finish.
Instead, I outsource my printing, mostly to Shapeways, both for personal modelling and my Eastern Road Models line. This gives far higher quality than any home printer will ever accomplish.
Here is a close-up of my HO scale CNR Hart Convertible Gondola, printed by Shapeways in their FXD acrylic:
http://public.fotki.com/sbhunterca/cnr-steel-frame-har/imgp2117.html
The surface quality and detail resolution are extremely good. For reference, the rivets are .008" diameter X .005" tall, with a full round. An average human hair is .003".
Even better is the upcoming CLIP printer by Carbon 3D:
I participated in testing of the new CLIP M-1 printer through Sculpteo this spring, and am extremely encouraged by the results. Detail resolution is incredible and the surface finish is beautiful. There are some special design constraints due to support requirements, but if you understand the limitations this isn’t a problem.
Here is my HO scale CNR GS Gondola, printed in “Prototyping Resin” (Vero White) on Sculpteo’s M-1:
http://public.fotki.com/sbhunterca/cnr-gs-gondolas/imgp8923-small.html
As with the Hart gondola, the rivets are .008" diameter X .005" tall with full rounds. Sculpteo just opened their CLIP up to public printing after a high degree of success in testing.
3D printing is currently a very viable modelling tool, and it is getting better all the time. I fully expect the (currently high) cost to drop before long due to market
Not to take this thread too far off the subject, but I have a 3D printer from a couple years ago. It’s one of the wooden kit ones, so the print quality certianly isn’t anything like what Shapeways can do. That being said, there have been a few instances where I’ve found the printer to be invaluble.
I was working on a Free-Mo module for my layout, and those require 2 inches between the rail centers for the double mainline. Rather than trying to mark and space things out manually, I just drafted up a 2 inch (and a 2 1/2 inch) spacer in my cad software, and printed out half a dozen of them in about an hour. They hold the track exactly where I need it to until I can nail it into place. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1666909
The next thing was balasting. There are tools available on the market, but they’re too much money, or too flimsy. I just designed and printed my own in about an hour. It’s a single piece. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:167093
Then comes the expreimental stuff. A ground throw for ho scale switches. This was my first real attempt into making something that will be on the layout. These printed fairly snug, so some sanding was required, and they don’t work all that well, but it got the job done. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:182293
These are all my original designs, and they are meant to show what else you can do with the printer besides props on the table. In terms of quality, the parts are given a woodgrain surface and accept paint that likes plastic fairly well. I’ve got a couple other ideas in the works, but for now this is what I’ve got.
Cheers!
Don’t know if everyone has heard but Shapeways was hacked today. If you have an account there, you might wanna go and change your password.