Hello all,
The fit for my 22" radius doens’t fit well on a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood and I would like to butt another piece of plywood up against the 4 x 8.
What would be the best way to do this or does anyone have a better idea of how to deal with this situation?
Thanks
Butting two 4x8 together may not be the best solution; that would give you an 8x8, and how would you reach the center (30" from the edge is about all)? Not knowing your space and what you are planning on running, I can’t be much help. But you could possibly go one of two ways: 1) make an “L” shaped layout, or 2) go around the walls with a 24" shelf layout.
Hope this helps.
Chris
Chris,
I think Howard is thinking of a smaller piece of wood, not another 4 x 8.
Howard,
Could you please explain what you mean exactly by “doesn’t fit well”? I take it you mean it’s too close to the edge? Are you looking for more layout space or just some buffer for your locomotives and rolling stock - to minimize any remote possibility of impending disaster? A drawing or photo of your track plan would be helpful to see.
Tom
Like tstage says, if your curve is centered (or near it), i.e. the center of the radius is about two feet from either side edge, then 22 inch curves should fit. This is why I plan on my island RR being 6 X 12 feet in order to accommidate broad curves. 6 feet in width is about as wide as you can go, as this implies a 3 foot reach, a little over the 24-30 inch reach maximum that’s usually recc. Of course, an around the wall plan can eliminate this problem, if you have the space.
Jim
Thanks everyone,
The problem is that with 22" the tracks are coming much to close to the edge of the 4 x 8 and there isn’t any room on the edges for anything else, much less things of interest.
If all you want to do is just add a small strip (6-10") to allow for larger radius or base for scenery, scab a scrap piece of plywood under the break. It would be a good idea to try to use the same plywood for the extension. Plywood thickness can vary between grades even if it is called the same thickness. Ideally, the use of a plate(biscuit) joiner at the seam and the scabbed reinforcment would work the best. Liquid nail and drywall screw from below.
The cheap solution would be to put a small curved piece of plywood or even 2" foam under just the area where the edge of the curve gets to close, kind of a bulge by the curve. I have several of those. For Plywood, if it is the same thinkness as the table, just screw a cleat under the seam. For 2 inch foam, you need to build spacers under the table so the top of the foam lines up with the top of the table. I just screw scrapes of wood under the table until the cleate lines up flush. Gound goop and scenery will hide all the seams. My station scene is attached this way.
Howard,
I have a 4 x 8 layout.
(Click picture to enlarge)
Except for a short 3-piece section of 18" radius curve on the right side, my mainline is all 22" radius. The only portion where the track is noticeably near the edge is at the bottom, where the mainline is straight. My yard and yard throat is right there so I think that helps to draw the eye away from that portion of the layout. (That’s the only straight section I have on the mainline.)
As far as “things of interest”, you can add a bridge or a ditch, as well as some ground foam for weeds. Trees and shrubs are also a huge filler in the corners areas or areas where there is too much space between the mainline and the edge of the layout.
I know that I’m pushing the limits of the borders of my layout. But, to me, the look of my locomotives going around 22" radius curves vs. 18" radius curves holds enough of an “interest” - just from the standpoint of realism - that it’s worth the confinement.
Tom
I agree with Art hill, plus unless you can walk all the way around the 4’ X 8’ you more than likely find that 4 foot is two wide like I have. At 6’4" I have to lay on the track to do anything toward the wall side.
I like to have 4" of lea way from the scale 261 foot drop to the floor on booth side. Had a New PK 2 E-6 during the break in make the leap. It lived, but did not look like new after it!
Cuda Ken
When I realized that I wanted broader curves, I simply added two 8" wide by 8’ long plywood “shelves” on the sides of my former layout. To keep them in place, and level with the rest of the layout, I placed 2X4 pieces below, cantilevered out from the edges of the original plywood at right angles. Where possible, I also used angled braces to provided greatly needed support to those 2X4’s. That way, I could use the edges to kneel on, as I was able to do on the original edges.
I have a question!
Under your foam, do you have a bed frame like slats ?
I plan on building my framework in such a manner, using 2 inch thick foam, 4 by 8 feet sheets of foam, the center portion will be actually 6 feet wide with my backdrop-divider running the length of about 24 feet, down the center of the 24 foot section and using another piece of 4 by 8 foam board cut into two length wise, and fastened to another 4 by 8 sheet to give 6 feet in width., soI can reach in the 36 inches from either side, as I will have access to both sides of the 24 foot long section.
I got the idea of a bed slat type support under the foam from another MR builder who did just that with slats about every 16 inches.
This way, the layout will be strong, but yet lightweight enough as I may move it up into my new garage extension later on when I extend my present garage by about 30 feet, and use the old part I park cars in now for my trains. My garage is 3 bays wide, one car deep right now, so when I extend it, I will have far more room for my train room than I have now in my basement and I can finish my basement to allow for a TV-family room downstairs that my layout is taking up now.
TheK4Kid
aka
Ed
Ed,
I don’t know if you are referring to mine but - yes, I have 1 x 3s supporting the 1-1/2" extruded foam base, with 1 x 3s for the side rails. It does make for a nice, light freestanding layout. For my next layout though, I think I’ll go with a 3/8" or 1/2" plywood base, with the foam laid over the top. I would also like to go around-the-wall so that I can have broader curves - i.e. 30" or greater.
Tom
IF you are buying a second full sheet to extend your layout, I would cut both pieces to 5 ft and butt them in the middle. This will be a far more stable way to accomplish the same thing. Make sure you have a support under the joint. IF you are adding foam to the plywood, put the joint on the foam layer in a different place than the joint on the plywood.
Ed:
Your method would work, re: slats under your foam. Only slight issue is if you plan on having under the table switch machines, can be difficult to secure to the underside of foam, though there have been other threads that describe securing them with latex caulk. Having a plywood base allows securing them to the wood base–seems more secure to me. Disadvantage is that this would add weight to your table, though as tstage says, it only needs to be 1/2 inch thick.
Jim
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the reply. If I do use tortoise under the table machines, I would make a plywood, ( probably light aircraft ply), and apply a square piece of ply slightly larger than the switch machine and just epoxy it to the foam underneath, or use spray adhesive to apply the wood mounting base to the underside of the foam. I am using 2 inch thick pink foam which is readily available here for less than $20.00 for a 4x8 sheet, usually about 17 to 20 dollars depending on where I get it and when.
I’ve been giving this whole concept a lot of thought.
Using this method would eliminate the need for a plywood base, keeping this whole layout lightweight but strong.
I have already purchsed some 1x4’s for my support rails underneath, and the same for the frame sides.
I have watched what a lot of other MR builders have done, and come up with improvements.
I plan on using 2x4’s screwed together in an “L” shape configuration for table legs.
Ed
You could always start with a 5’x10’ piece of plywood and cut it down to exactly what you need. A real lumber yard (i.e. NOT Home Depot) can order it for you. Personally I prefer making a frame with wood (1x2’s or 1x4’s) and then gluing the pink foam sheets onto the frame. They are made with a tongue on one side and a groove on the other and they mate together perfectly.
Yes, the square securing base for the switch machines would work, I’m sure. One comment about your legs: 2 X 4’s are OK, but probably overkill. Linn Wescott in his benchwork book reccs. 2 X 2’s, even for larger island tables; cross-bracing with gussets is probably more important for table/island stability than the thickness of the legs. 2 X 2’s should be plenty sturdy if you’re going to just have a foam base.
Jim
I’d like to just throw a hint out there about 2x2s. The quality of the framing lumber is getting worse with all the new growth. Don’t rip the 2xs just prior to installation, pick your stock for fairly straight and clean grain and rip them ahead of time. This will allow them to season and if they twist or bow it won’t be installed and supporting the benchwork. The bracing can only do so much to keep them straight. If you can find Douglas Fir (usually only west coast) clean vertical graining is the best. Hemlock would be the next choice. Look for KD stock not S-dry.
