Fellas, does anybody have a place that has replacment sound boards for the sound tenders of the 70’s tenders? I have one that does not produce anything now. The tender uses the same sound board as many in that era.
Any clue on the sound boards?
Thanks
Chris
Are you sure the sound board is bad? I had one that wouldn’t work at all, and turns out it was caused by the mechanism up by the smoke unit not making contact. If you have been using smoke fluid that also could “foul up” the contacts.
Another possible malfunction is shorting caused by dried out foam rubber mounting either bridging a gap or allowing contact points to touch the metal tender frame. Also check the wires in the tether plugs: they can break inside without coming completely out.
I tried another tender to see if that was it and it ran that.
thanks
Whats the Tether plugs? the plug at the end of the wire?
I am going to see if the foam is causing something. will that foam cause a short itself? should I clean it off and get new stuff. I know there is glue, maybe some metal shavings got onto that glue and bridged the points. will it run anymore if that happens? would that short the resistors? I will test the power going in and out with a test light. anything else I can test on the contacts? Is there a way to fix the board components if I need to? replacement pieces?
Chris
Hello Chris! Unfortunately the electronics cannot be repaired. They can only be replaced. Try Warren’s Model Trains for a new Foam Board & see if that helps. They may also have some Sound of Steam Boards in stock as well for your Tender. Go to their website & check them out. Hope this helps. Take Care
Yes, the tether plug is the one that connects the wires from the engine and the tender together. Pieces of the foam can indeed create shorts on their own, and, of course, the board touching the tender frame will short.
These boards are actually pretty tough, so cleaning/removing any offending material causing a short may be sufficient.
If you are lucky enough to save the board, use silicone caulk to mount it to the tender frame.
I’ve been following the postings on this topic and was hoping there was a good easy answer. I got an SOS set a while back and the board had already been fried which you could smell but the set (Milwaukee Rd) was priced right so I went ahead and got it and then put in a sound system from TA Studios. Probably spent as much on that as the set itself but it works and sounds great and has been trouble free since. The rounded tender body can be changed easily so it does duty with more than one engine.
Ole
The number one problem that I am aware of with these MPC vintage Sound of Steam boards is that the original foam piece that insulates the sound board from the tender frame disintegrates in time. If you buy one of these older units without checking the tender first, there’s a good chance you’ll fry the board, if it hasn’t already been done.
The other probelms such as broken wires, dirt etc. have been mentioned. Though the only problem I have ever run into with these electronic SOS tenders is having a foam insulating piece that is totally shot.
It is most advisable upon buying one of these locos to immediately replace the foam before operation. It doesn’t take anything fancy… you can cut a piece of foam and hold it in place with 3M carpet tape or small pieces of rolled up electrical tape.
If buying one of these used, you might request taking a look see under the tender shell to see the condition of the foam and ask for a test run. It’s hard to tell the board is fried by just looking at it.
As much as I know there are zero replacement boards for the MPC era Sound of Steam. You’d have to do as others above and replace the MPC sound board with something else entirely.
MARX initially came out with this idea several years before Lionel MPC did. But I am unaware of any MARX replacement boards either. Truth is neither one of these Lionel or MARX features were around long enough, and with Railsounds and everything else that has followed, train sounds have advance far beyond the simplicity of the early 1970’s when the mechanical and electronic sound of steam were novel ideas.
I like the electronic SOS as well as the much simpler mechanical version. By deepening the mounting holes in the tender, adding a few ounces of weight and replacing the traction band on the rotating drum, the mechanical sound of steam can be made to work much much better - even on tight 027 curves. I speak from experience.
wow, you guys know alot obout these things. I am going to silicone or replace all of my tenders foam pads under the boards now! As for my jersey central tender, I will contact Warrens or maybe TA studios.
Thanks Chris
Or maybe find another tender on Ebay that works and swap the bottom out!
Thanks
Chris