If space is not an issue, which one will you recommend for a newbie and why? I originally decide on 8x8 and I have bought two planks already, but I would like to hear people’s opinion once more first before making up the final decision.
Thanks,
Rudy
Since space is not an issue, i would not do eather, instead i would do 4x16, but that’s just my personal preferance, or if you REALLY have NO space issue, add an L to that and make 4x16 with a 8x4 arm. but i guess my Q’s are;
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What scale you are thinking of
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for a ‘newbie’ do you know if you would go DCC or DC?
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passanger or freight or even both!?
I’ll try to give you a quick reply, Rudy.
One 4 x 8 panel equals 32 square feet. Butted together into 8 x 8 gives you 64 square feet. The problem is that you won’t be able to reach much farther than two feet into the layout, so the 16 square feet in the middle of the 8 x 8 layout is unreachable (a whopping 25% of your layout!). Cutting access holes in the middle just means you are losing that space. If you can’t reach it or lose it to access holes, why bother building it that way in the first place?
In addition, to reach the REST of the layout, the 8 x 8 would have to be an “island” in the middle of a room to allow access from all sides. Allowing only 3 feet for an aisle, you would need a room at least 14 x 14 to accomodate that layout. That’s a LOT of room for a layout, but 8 x 8 is a poor use of the space.
If you have that much room available, it is better to cut those panels down and mount them around the walls of the room. Using your two sheets of plywood, you could have a nice layout with 12" wide shelves going around a 14 x 14 foot room. Want something with deeper shelves? Buy a third sheet of plywood and cut it into four 2 x 4 sections. Mount those around the room and use the 12" deep sections to connect the 2 x 4 sections. Now you’ve got really nice long mainline runs connecting areas representing towns, business, small rail yards, etc. A much better use of your space without a substantial increase in costs!
Got a doorway you have to accommodate? Use a lift-out section across the doorway to allow access into the room, or build a “gate” across the door that the trains can use to bridge the doorway. If you don’t want lift-outs or gates, simply shorten the layout enough to allow the door to open.
There are many ways to make good use of space for a layout. Read some of the layout posts in other threads for ideas. W
An 8x8 allows for a 24 or 30 inch radius curve and for HO is preferable to a 4x8 for that reason. Use the larger for articulated locos. The center should be open or at least have access hatches.
If you have the room cut the two 4x8 sheets into 2x8 panels. Arrange in rectangle 8x12 (the center will be open). You can even build this in a corner if necessary. This will allow decent curves of 30" with some straight track without the curves forcing the track to the outer edge of the layout.
I would double track the oval with a small yard on one side outside of the oval and a switching district on the other side. This will let you find out what kind of model railroading you like - operations vs railfanning or a balance of the two.
Enjoy
Paul
Thanks for all the advice.
I guess I cannot be that greedy to take 8x8. I am now thinking of 8x4 with 6x4 by the side. So the perimeter on four sides would be 8+8+6+4. In that case, I believe I should be able to reach almost all the areas.
Rudy
I’d personally suggest cutting the two 4x8 sheets into four 1’x8’ shelves, four 1’x4’ shelves, and four 2’x2’ corners, to gain an 8’x20’ around the wall layout. A one foot shelf is plenty wide to hold a mainline, a passing siding, and a siding on each side of the main/passing tracks. You’ll even have a little room for structures!