Working my way around the inner loop here, installing turnouts etc. I have been using the old five finger power supply to push cars along just to see if things are looking okay. Upon installation of a Gargraves 90 degree crossing I had cars bouncing up and down through the crossing. Now, one is a Marx unit with the old 3/16" diameter wheels so it sure didn’t seem to indicate the flanges were bottoming out. Once I saw this I tried a couple more not so old Marx cars, a Williams caboose, and a K-Line unit I had morphed with one Marx wheel set and the original K-Line wheel set. All of them bounced. So I examined things and sort of guessed that all the very sharp corners on all the numerous molding edges could be a problem. I filed and Exacto scraped and made some improvements. Things are better on all the cars now but I am wondering if I am going to have to fight this crossing forever? It sure is more noisy than any turnout as far as car crossing noise. Has anyone else run into this and if so… any long term recommendations? Thanks for your time.
Jim
Actually, the extra noise is very prototypical. Have you ever stood near a crossover and heard a train slam across the crossing? What a racket!!!
I have no experience with Gargraves crossing. In fact when I built a layout 20 years ago Gargaves did not offer crossings at all. I had 3 crossings made by Frank Curtis,a 90,60,and 30. I have adapted these to my new layout composed of mostly Atlas track. After all these years they are still flawless and trains pass through with little problems. I have never had a derailment caused by one of these.My recommendation would be to buy Curtis or Ross crossovers. More money but worth it.
Dale Hz
I have experience with both GG and Ross and Ross is much smoother. In terms of the GG, you will just have to keep working on it. I would suggest that you use sandpaper or file rather than the knife to smooth down the plastic edges where the track and crossing meet. You will want to lower the edge a little and fan the edge out somewhat. Check the mating of the track and the 90 to see if things are level. You may need a small shim under the track. Don’t forget to file/sand the edges of the plastic center of the 90 as well to round them off a little. Check the height of the center to see if it needs to be sanded down as it can give your rollers a real jolt going over if it is too much higher than the middle rail in the 90.
Poppyl
Okay, thanks for the advice. I’ll keep filing/sanding and maybe consider a Ross unit if not satisfied…
Jim
BTW – much of the advice for smoothing and feathering the plastic edges of the GG 90 will also apply to the plastic components of their switches if you are going that route.
Poppyl
Excuse that this is off the topic but I’m just getting back into the train collecting process and I need some advice. Where should I start with this whole process? I have some trains that I have inherited from my family. Where is the best place to display these trains?