Ok, i’ve not seen this published here before, so here goes. I was walking thru my local ACE hardware, just killing time, and i happen to look up and saw these color putties for wood. No real surprise till i saw they had white. So i wondered, would this work on a mortar for a building? 2.00 later i had my jar of putty.
I took it home to try on a piece of DPM wall material that i have. This stuff has great base relief so it should work well. I painted it Tamiya Hull Red about a week ago, and today opened up the putty and gave it a shot. Using my finger, i dabed a very small amount on the end of my finger and proceeded to rub it in. First off the control is excelent, you really can work it into the nocks and crannies. After i was satified i took a red shop rag and proceeded to skim the surface, leaving most of it in the cracks. I think the effect is great. I intend to let it dry for a few days and give it a wash of india ink/acholol to tone it down a bit.
For 2 bucks its worth a shot.
Bill
How many ounces to that shot?
Hmm, results look OK so far, hopefully you will post the finished product (after you weather and ‘tone it down’ a bit). This sound a bit like the way several ‘mortar’ products already sold out there are used.
Well, there’s really only 2* ways to finish brick/concrete block/stone walls when you think about it - finishing the walls in the brick color first, and then adding a mortar wash/rub/paint etc over that; or covering the walls in the mortar color first, and then adding/stamping/dry-brushing/rubbing the brick color over that. There are an infinite combination of materials and methods used to achieve these basic ends, and hopefully your mortar method will stand up to the test well.
*note, finishing your building walls brick-by-brick using your own mortar paste, while not unheard of for random stone walls, and probably used here and there on G-Scale and Garden Layouts, is not under discussion here.
I notice that it’s a oil base product…It may not dry for quite some time.What does the label say?
I use this product as well as the Minwax version frequently during the course of my work. It is an oil base product and larger nail holes or cracks can take up to 3-4 days to dry. I realize the a thin layer was applied, but make sure that it won’t affect the plastic or paint. Maybe a spackling paste would be a safer bet.
Bob K.