Hi, first post, and building my first layout after being an armchair modeler for close to 30 years!
First question - I am building a 5x9 with DCC. From my understanding, I do not need any separate blocks for wiring, just one big block. Does that sound right? With that in mind, would I still need maybe one separate “block” on a siding or something like that for a programming track for new locos?
Second question - I have purchased several Walthers / Shinohara turnouts and have a question on those. The throw bars stick out on both sides. I guess you trim the side you don’t need? Same with the small humps that stick up from each throw bar? Not even sure what those are.
Lastly, I assume there is no special wiring needed for the turnouts since they are the new updated “made for dcc” types and I am using DCC?
You have it largely correct on all counts. If you don’t have complicated tracks, just similarly oriented sidings and a crossing that is insulated, for example, one block should do, although I am not up to speed over an cross overs and how that might work since I don’t have one. You may have to power a crossover separately.
I take it that you know that just because you are treating the tracks as one block doesn’t mean you won’t necessarily be able to get away with just one pair of feeders running the whole thing…you’ll need at least one other pair, probably at the opposite end. You may find that it really does okay with just the one pair, but I would bet you’ll find yourself accepting that one more distant pair improves the voltage level.
I did know about the multiple feeders. The table is actually divided evenly down the middle longways, so it can be removed from the house more easily when I need to, so I was already planning on having feeders on both sections, but not sure if I need two feeder connections on each 2.5’ x 9’ section.
I drop feeders every 6 to 9 feet, and solder the rail joiners in between.
Don’t forget the insulators near the frogs of the turnouts if you are using electro-frog or power routing turnouts.
The nubs on the throw bars are to provide a place to attach switch machines or ground throws. If you are not going to use them, you can cut them off.
One thing to remember. Even though you may be going to use ground throws, and can reach them, don’t use them on any tracks that are not very close to the edge of your layout. The reason is there will be scenery everywhere and you will have to reach around and over it to get to the ground throws. I found out the hard way.
Hey, weren’t you one of the 200 or so quarterbacks to play for the Chicago Bears over the last 25 years?
As to your first question, sure, you can set up your DCC layout as one block. No problem. I have a 22’ x 42’ layout, all powered as a single block. The only reason for separate blocks is power management if you want to facilitate isolating shorts. And, yes, the programming track must be isolated from the main block. As others have mentioned, use a lot, rather than a few, feeder wires ot your bus wires.
As to your second question, you can trim the “other side” of the throwbars on you turnouts if space is a problem, but don’t remove them entirely in case you ever want to reuse the turnouts in a different position. You can always flip the throwbars to the other side. Those humps you refer to are there for certain types of mechanisms that are used to throw the switch, so to speak. When I use manual ground throws, such as Caboose Industries, I use a pair of rail clipp
Thanks for answering all my questions guys! Really appreciated. Yeah, the other Greg Landry played for the Lions and Bears and I think became offensive coordinator for the Bears at some point. Or maybe just QB coach. I’m a Saints fan myself. Still on cloud 9.
Greg, since I’m a Vikings fan, I’d suggest you’re going to need, oh, about 1200 blocks. And the way to handle those throw bars? Glue 'em to the table. That should work fine.
[}:)]
Just kidding. Congrats on getting out of the armchair and into modeling, and good luck with your layout!
First [#welcome] to the REAL world of MRRing, not just the armchair variety!
I have a layout a bit smaller than yours…an HO 3.5 foot x 5.1foot. It consists of one 15"Radius oval inside and cross connected to an 18"R oval via two sets of switches. Inside the inner oval is a 4 short spur “yard”, and a two spur "engine servicing facility. I can run one train from the inner circle to the outer circle and back in again by flipping a few Atlas Snap switches {which have 15R turnouts, that can be expanded to 18R with an extender piece}. I can run two trains, one on each oval, and even cross them over to the other oval {CAREFULLY so as not to derail them by running into eachother!!}
To answer your question about DCC- my whole layout is one big block, no need for separate blocks, not even per oval. I do have 1 set of feeder wires on the opposite end of the layout from the terminal where the DCC connects, but I did for a long time run it with just two wires connected at the DCC controls connection,
Nope. HO Scale. As I said, It IS a small layout. Had I gone with N scale instead, I could have had a “vast empire” in the same space. I only have room for what I have and I really really really wanted HO, so I forced the issue. The 15r and 18r are the standard small radii for HO scale.
I plan to expand it a little and try to make an inside oval of 18r and a bigger 18r outside oval by installing some short straight pieces to make it big enough to go around the inner 18r oval.
Only smaller HO engines will run on the 15 r and 18r is better. I’d like to run a SD 40-2 and it should do it on the 18r but definitely won’t like the 15r. I can consist a train in the 4 spur short yard {the shortest track will hold only one car and the longest 4 cars…40 footers taht is} with a loco and send that loco out the the “main line” outer oval and consist another tarin to run onthe inner oval, but NOT with a loco that won’t run on 15r curves. Hence, the need to slightly to expand the layout a bit. By the way the space available for the layout in the room is 6.5 feet x about 6 feet also! So 5.1 feet x 3.5 feet is about it for the rr pike!
Read the post “Newbie W/ small space” in this forum further down on page one now for more info on my pike.