Ok, here’s a couple ???s for ya…
I’m starting to lay my track, so how do you use rail joiners on flex pieces and customline turnouts, since the ties get in the way at the ends?
Second, what do you all do about cork for turnouts? Do you just cut some cork up to fit the shape of the switch?
There’s no such thing as a stupid question…
Question 1: You have to cut the first tie off each end – do it carefully, file the fake spikes off, and you can slip it back under the joint after the track is layed.
Question 2: You could do it that way, but they do make cork turnout pads.
Here’s a link to one as an example:
1.Cut off the last couple of ties, but keep them as you will need them later.
2.When you have your track lines on your layout you lay the cork on the outside of the track center lines through the turnout. Then you cut the cork to fit inside the outer pieces of cork.
Hope this helps,
dekruif
If I could be so bold as to add to David’s instruction about the ties under the rail joiner, I have learned, the hard way, that there is a bit more to it if you want smooth-topped running surfaces on the rails where they join. When you slip the filed ties back under the joiners, you will find that even when the spike heads and plates are filed smooth, the thickness of the metal joiner, itself, will tend to buckle up the rail ends above it. So, your cars will buck, too, although not a great deal. So, take a jeweller’s file and do about fiften moderately hard scrubs on that surface AFTER the plates and spike heads are gone so that the joiner will lie in the new shallow groove that you have just created.
-Crandell
With flextrack, you’ll have to remove one, maybe two of the end ties. When I first started doing this, I simply removed the “webs” between the ties with rail nippers, then slid the ties out of the way. Now, I cheat a little. I simply remove the entire ties and add my rail joiners. At that point, I then solder the joints. This is done to prevent kinks on curves. After the track has been nailed down, I then slip some wooden ties under the joint. (If you’re wondering, sometimes my soldering gun gets a bit too hot, and I sometimes melt the ties with it. Even if they’ve been slid back, and I use a heatsink, they still melt occasionally.) A little super glue holds them in place. Once the track is ballasted, you won’t see the difference 
PLW the MRR Myth Busters – #5 - The Myth is:
You have to remove several ties at each end of flex track to install the track jointers!
No you Don’t. This Myth was started because the person thought that they could save some time. It was a lazy way of installing the jointers as they were used to the old sectional track having the ties recessed for the jointers.
You do not have to remove any ties when putting on the rail jointer. Just use a knife to cut the little plastic tabs off that clamps the tie to the rail. I then pu***he tie down a little and slide on the metal jointer between the ties and the rail. Then I solder the joint and as the heat dissipates into the rail the plastic tie softens up a little and it will let the metal jointer settle down into the tie ever so slightly.
Now there is no hump as the joint is now level with the rest of the track. I have used this method for the last 20 years. The one thing I hate is going back and trying to put the ties back in after I am done.
I have seen so many layouts, that I have visited that have never went back and put the ties in or if they did you could always see it!
All of these techniques have been proven on a HO scale home layout with over 15 scale miles of mainline track and has over 2800 feet of track (42 scale miles) total in place, so far. The layout hosts bi-weekly Operations and yearly OPTUD’s (OP Till U Drop) 12 hour sessions and has had up to 40 operators at some of these sessions. The layout runs Digitrax DCC Radio. All of these so called MRR Myths have been Busted as this layout has been in operation for over 5 years and we have proven these over and over again.<<<
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Bob H.,
Well there are at least two MRR’s doing it this way!
I thought I was doing it wrong after reading so many posts on cutting out some ties.
Glad you spoke up Bob… makes me feel better.
I use foam rather than cork roadbed. The foam is more flexible, and allows me to slip replacement ties in easily without distorting the top of the rail.
Bob is correct. This method works for me too. I use a sharp knife and cut a tad below the tie plate. Occasionally, the ties melt a bit too much from soldering and the ends bend. I quick eye and a quick tool will get them back into place before they cool. I also use foam roadbed which is a little bit more flexible than cork.
Removing ties isn’t wrong, just unnecessary.
I have found both methods work just as well as the other does. Mostly it is up to you which is easiest. Neither is right or wrong.
For myself I handlay my track now.
But that’s another story LOL. [;)] [:P]
The biggest problem I have with the tie removal is that NO ONE ever takes the time to put the ties back in and then IF they do IT looks like they just threw them in to get the job done!
With my method once I have the track down and wired all I have to do is file any sharp edges at the track joint and move on. NO coming back to finish it up later as there is no later.
I have seen layouts all sceniced up and the track has the ties missing. And what really got me going was watching the video of Northlandz (the super large layout open to the public in New Jersey) ALL of the track in the video was this way no ties at the joints. It really stood out in the video.
And this is a professional layout open to the public???
BOB H – Clarion, PA
Bob H,
I’m glad you spoke up about your method it sounds great. I’m about to start building my layout and I don’t intend to solder every joint. I would like to use your method but what do you do for the ties where the joints are not soldered?
Bill
Just to confuse the issue further…
As far as I am aware there is no need to mess about at all if you use the very small joiners made by Micro Engineering. They are small enough to fit without a lot of work and big enough to do the job.
If your track is laid securely and held true the joiners should have bery little work to do except the last bit of ensuring that the rails stay butted together in line. if they are doing more than this there must be some sort of pressures pushing your track around … that would mean that you have not fixed it down either correctly or enough.
Just one thing to add… I never rely on joiners for electrical continuity but always add jumper wires… the real thing does this so i do too.
Have fun[:P]
BOB,
You have my interest here, what are the other MRR Myth Busters?
Inquiring minds want
Bill54
First of all You really need to solder most all of your joints, especially if you are using DCC. The N/S rail has much more resistance than copper so the DCC signal will degenerate and the engines will not respond to the DCC commands. You will begin to blame everything but the track and wiring.
I put drops at every track joint and all 3 ends of a turnout. I run #12 wire for the buss. If I have to allow for expansion I would do it in the middle of a straight section of track, NEVER on a curve!
So back to your question, solder the joints on the curves as they will hold the rail and keep the kinks from forming. If you don’t want to solder the joints do so only on the straight sections.
I solder my #26 drop wires at each of the metal track joints. This way if I ever decide to reuse the track some place else I do not have a solder spot in the middle of the 3 ft flex section.
I would use the same method as before and use the solder gun to heat up the rail some to get the jointer to sink down into the plastic tie.
BOB H – Clarion, PA
SilverSpike
As for the Myth Busters
#1 – Zero maintenance layout (2200 sq ft layout) – You can’t maintain a large layout by yourself
#2 – DCC 8 amp boosters and welding engine wheels of the engine derails
#3 – Track Cleaning – Never again!
#4 – Reverse Loops – Using a toggle switch with DCC
#5 – Not removing ties on flex track
#6 – IDC connectors - #M scotch locks/Suitcase connectors for track wiring-NEVER
#7 - The Rolling Stock Truck Tuner tool & why do you need one
#8 – Soldering Track Joints
#9 – Homasote Expansion vs Wood
#10 – DCC and you have to modify the turnouts – YOU DON”T
#11 – Homasote Cost – making a mess when cutting – You Don’t have to make dust when cutting
Like I said these ideas have been tried and proven way too many times so I am always going to resend these Myth Busters each time a thread comes up hopefully the NuBe will try them and we will some day live down these untruths that the old timers have purported to be true.
BOB H – Clarion, PA
Dave Foster
How do you keep from having kinks at the rail joints on curves?
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Bob, if I could appeal to your good will, could I ask you to go through each point and explain what you mean? It is not entirely clear to me what you intend to say with each one of them…my limitation probably.
-Crandell
I agree w/ Bob’s method also. As a precaution, I will file some material off the tie as well. Placing the ties back at this point also allows for proper trimming of the rails for proper spacing.
Bob K.
selector
Are you asking about the 11 Myths of model Railroading?
BOB H - Clarion, PA