I am still looking for some great engines for my new system. Now the questions are:
1- Dcc Quick-Plug Equipped. Does that mean I have to take the cover off the engine and plug something in?
2- DCC Ready (NMRA 8-pin plug). Same as above
Do they make a engine thats already DCC and its ready to go? If the other 2 questions aren’t that hard to do, I guess I can try on of those.
Robby
Yes, you would have to remove the body shells to add the decoders to Nos. 1 & 2. There’s lots of DCC Ready to Run locos out there.
I am sure that you know that having DCC does not always mean it has sound. If that makes a difference, then take care. If you want sound it is easier to ad a sound decoder to a DCC ready engine than to ad a sound only decoder to an engine that has DCC with no sound.
If this sound a little complicated it is. It is fairly easy, but there are SO MANY options. “DCC ready” does not mean the same thing between different companies and models.
You have to read to make sure you get what you want. A LHS really makes a difference here.
I would look for locomotives with factory DCC and sound. Right now, if you look in the Walthers catalog, you will see why. Most engines which are available as either straight DC or equipped with DCC/Sound are about $100 apart in price for the two models. When you look at the cost of a decoder, speaker and speaker enclosure, you’re right in that $100 range, and you would still have to install it yourself.
I have several older discontinued models which I got at “blowout” prices. In this case, it’s worth the effort to install sound myself, assuming that “the effort” is an enjoyable part of the hobby, not an odious chore that I would pay someone else to do if I weren’t such a Scotsman.
There are quite a few companies that make locos that are DCC equipped (decoder already installed) as well as DCC ready (decoder can be added). To some companies DCC ready means simply that the motor has been isolated from the frame, to others that a decoder can simply be plugged in. Beware of the ‘DCC capable’ label. This usually means that the loco can be converted to DCC with some work on your part and may mean that you have to isolate the motor from the frame. Athearn Blue Box immediately comes to mind. Seven of my DCC locos are Athearn Blue Box. On every one of them I had to isolate the motor before hard wiring a decoder. Four others (Proto 2000) came DCC ready and all I had to do was plug a decoder in and change the light bulbs.
is changing the lights nesecary? Could all engines be converted to dcc?
Thanks again guys. I think I rather spend alittle extra and get it all ready to go. I am worried that if I try to convert it over, I might break something. That wouldn’t be a good thing at all. Maybe done the road I can try it, and see how simple it is.
If you get a decoder that supports low voltage lighting you can use the existing bulbs without modification. Even without the low voltage lighting decoders you can put a resister in line with the bulbs. I just routinely replace the bulbs anyway so I don’t have to put the resistors in.
how do you know if it is a low voltage bulb? and what will happen if it isnt? will the decoder fail? I tried installing a few decoders the other day in older engines and had no luck. The first engine a mantua camelback, I got the light to turn on and off and while playing with the motor brushes got it to spin the wheels but something wasnt right, then the egine stopped responding all together. All the other engines I tried after that I got no response. After using one decoder on address 3 do I have to then program all other decoders after to another address to get them working?
If it’s a low voltage bulb and it gets unchanged track power from the decoder, the bulb will burn out. There’s an easy way to ascertain what the bulbs voltage is. Simply use a multi-meter to check the amount of voltage coming from the locos light board. Any replacement bulb you buy will have the voltage and amperage on the package. I use 14 volt bulbs that have 25 mA rating, well within the decoders limit. As far as addressing, all decoders I’ve come across come from the factory preset to address 3 (03). You can leave the decoders address as 03 if you want to but most people change the address so the loco can run independently. I have some locos that are set to the same address because I run them in consist. This means that I control two locos on one address so they run as one.
A much easier way is to look at the loco’s light board (assuming it isnt a plug and play affair) and ask yourself one question; Does it have resistors on it? If it does, then you will need to add resistors, if it doesnt, then you dont.
David B
Here’s what I look for.
If you are keeping the factory light board and plugging a decoder into the factory board, either an 8 pin or a 9 pin socket, you generally won’t need to change the bulbs because the power for the lights will run through the factory board. If the oem bulbs are 1.5v bulbs than the factory board will have resistors (or diodes) installed. The decoder light function power should also route through those components.
If you are replacing the facory board with a drop in replacement, like on some Atlas and older kato loco, then you need to check the oem bulbs for their voltage. Generally speaking the oem bulbs are either 1.5 v or either 12v or 14v bulbs. The easiest way to check them is to try and power them with a 1.5v battery. If they light up, then they’re 1.5v bulbs and you need the appropriate resistor. Start high and work your way down to a value that produces the amount of light you like. If they don’t light then they are probably the higher voltage (or burned out) and you don’t need a resistor.
One thing to keep in mind, a 12v bulb will generate considerably more heat than a 1.5v bulb. This additional heat in a headlight assembly can melt or warp thin plastic if left on for an extended period of time.
LEDs are a different subject.