I’m about to order Atlas code 83 flex track and Midwest cork, and I have the Walthers Shinohara turnouts for the upcoming (DCC) layout. From what I’ve read, I plan to use DAP Alex Plus latex caulk to lay the cork over 5/8" plywood cookie cutter 2-level layout. Also caulk for the track, except the turnouts or at most a smidge at each end. I also need to consider shimming the turnouts for height alignment to the Altas code 83 flextrack. I’m biased toward soldering every other rail joiner pair, to help avoid kinks but to allow for some expansion (in climate controlled home), plus as a feeder connection. I plan to try Atlas code 80 rail joiners as some suggest, and Atlas code 83 insulated joiners at the few places needed (2 reverse loops, program track).
Any comments on the foregoing or the specific question below will help me order the right pieces.
I presume I may want to use some track nails or spikes occasionally to help maintain a curve, hold multiple turnouts, etc. I see the flex track can be drilled in the middle for a nail but I’d rather put a spike at the rail. Do I want 1/2" to hit the plywood? From which manufacturer? Should I buy a set of spike-notched pliers for the few I will use?
LION would not buy “Trick Nails” but would buy 18, 29, or 20 ga nails, 1/2 or 5/8 inch nails.LIONS, after all are CHEAP and can get better deal on nails than on spikes. Once the nails are in, just paint the heads black with a magic marker.
LION uses a regular needle nose pliers to push the nails in. LION grabs the nail by the shaft and not by the head. Depending on how hard you plywood is you could just use the tip of the pliers to push it in the rest of the way. If you are using a harder sort of plywood, then you need a small nail set and a small, lightweight hammer to tap them in. You do not want to push or tap them too hard lest you stress the tie which would put the rails out of perfect gauge.
[LIONS only use nails, lots of them, maybe that is why he frets about the price.]
You don’t need nails to hold the curves untilt he caulk dries. A few pushpins will work fine. Unless you are trying to make REALLY tight curves (mine are int he 22-24" radius range), it won;t snap back against the caulk anyway, not more than a few pins intot he roadbed would hold anyway. I prefer to secure the ends and then let it float so it will form a smooth curve without kinks, then press it down and stick in a few pins for an hour or so.
I dunno about the N scale code 80 joiners, I’ve never had a problem with loose joiners using the Atlas ‘universal’ ones, in fact fresh ones fit so tightly on my code 83 track that I can’t imagine trying to force them on the code 100. And I only use fresh ones when laying track, if I was test fitting prior I do NOT use those joiners other than perhaps when solderign two sections of flex together. When it’s time to finally palce the track and caulk it down, the joiners I use are ones that have not been previously used on track sections.
Just got thru laying 200’ of mainline and half of my 12 track yard. Used M.E. and Walhers T/O with atlas code 83 flex track. Ties on both brand of T/O are about half the height of the flex. I just flipped the flex over and used a sanding block with 120 grit paper and started about 5 ties back and sanded a taper til the height was about the same (once u get the hang of it it only takes a 5 or 6 swipes). It doesn’t have to be exact. After removing 2 ties from each piece to slide on the rail joiners theres enough flex to allow the height to even out.(of course the closer the better). It’s better to taper the flex than shim the T/O. Shimming could cause alignment problems. As stated be most everyone caulk is the way to go. With my 26r curves I only needed a couple of pins to hold the curve and I only did that as a security check. The caulk you mentioned is what I used. I advise not using caulk with silcone. Used some by misstake and it dries with a slippery surface. Been running trains for a month now with no problems.
Atlas flex can be given a `set’ by gently forcing it to a tighter radius than you intend it to hold. Once you pre-bend it, there’s no side pressure on the caulk, so the track will stay put. You will probably have to help the last few inches of each rail with a pair of pliers. Just be careful not to form kinks.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on Atlas flex with hand-laid turnouts.)
I also use push pins to hold the track inplace until the glue dries. But yes, if you really want the nail/spike to grip the wood it will need to go all the way through the tie and cork into the cookie cutter.
If you really want to go with the spike route I recommend predrilling the hole next to the rail. I have a special knotched spike tool. I find it much harder to use than just a good old set of needle-nose plyers.
I avoid kinks by staggering the joints in the two rails. Such that any one joint is always across from a solid rail.