A few questions about resurrecting my old HO Set

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
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First let me explain what my goal is.

1.) I’m trying to get my old layout running from circa 1978. It’s a mix of Tyco and Atlas track to make an oval with an inside passing line.

2.) I have three helpers aged 5(in a few weeks) 3, and 2. So I want something durable but not a massive amount of time or cash. A starter set for the boys if you will not my dream model RR.

I’m posting here because this forum seems to be a little more open to these questions:

I’ll be replacing the old brass track with new silver-nickel track but want to pratice first. For some reason my brother pulled up the track and I have it loosely put back in place. Cleaned w/ a bright boy and the track works ok but have some dead spots.

1.) When you solder the track together is it required to remove the ties or if you’re careful can you skip this?

2.) Any track components that I should avoid soldering i.e. turnouts?

3.) My 25 year cork has seem better days any suggestions on a roadbed? Never ballasted it since I couldn’t decide how I wanted it to look.

4.) Rerailers are they really necessary if you lay the track right. I have 18" radius curves to fit to a 4’X8’ table.

5.) Wahl Clipper oil where is it availible? I need to clean my locomotive wheels or other methods?

6.) is there anywhere that I can find exploded views off how to disassemble locomotives for cleaning and lubrication? I have some 70’s series Tycos, Baumanns, Athrean and AHM.

7.) With the AHM the wheels in the back truck were loose in the box. Is there anywhere I can find a set off assembly instructions? I need to figure out if the axle wiper goes above or below the axles.

8.) I’ve tested out the power unit and it’s ok… Anything else I need to check out?

9.) Besides changing the grease in the gear box and lubricating the motor are there any other areas I need to check out?

10.) Of course getting bac

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You can’t go wrong with Proto 2000, they’re superb runners. However, they do tend to have quite fine detail which may be a potential problem if this is to be a “kid’s layout”. Look at Proto 1000 instead - same mechanisms but more robust detail. I have one of the Proto 1000 Erie-Builts in C&NW livery - it’s superb!

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You’ve pretty much done your homework and covered the bases. Your dead spots are probably due to poor connection through the rail joiners which soldering will eliminate. I am a little leary about HO with kids that young. They just don’t have the motor skills to rerail stuff at that age so I would opt for the rerailers just to hlep them get them back on the track. If you want to get them interested and the funda are available I would suggest getting an LGB starter set for around the tree. They are rugged and have excellent play value. They are what Lioenl was in the earlier days.

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Maybe I should explain that the kids will supervised but as they’ve shown me “They can and will find ways around me.” I want them to have an appreciation of these things work and it’s something we can do together.

My five year old asked me “Please make the trains go, Daddy” and that started a series of late nights at Grandpa’s. He found a “treasure chest”, you might call it a footlocker but you’d be wrong, and it had my old trains in it.

Did I mention that Thomas the Tank Engine is more popular than Daddy at my house?

Thanks for the responses so far.

DT

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Oh and the Proto2000 is for the biggest kid.

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For your layout, brass track should be OK, but will require frequent cleaning. Mixing brass and nickel silver rail can cause problems over a long period of time, but since your children are so young this layout won’t last long enough to worry about reactions between different types of metal. Soldering rail joiners should cure the electrical dead spots. Don’t solder turnouts – they are the only moving parts to the trackwork and will be the first to break, so leaving them unsoldered makes replacement easier. As old as your rail is, I assume you have “snap” track that comes in 9" long pieces, and not flex track. If you’re careful with your soldering (use a 30 Watt pencil iron) you won’t need to remove ties at the rail joints. Solder only to the outside of the rail and let the heat draw the molten solder into the rail joiner. Never use acid core solder – electronics, resin-core solder only. Use small diameter solder for easier melting – maybe even silver solder, which melts at a lower temperature. Some Tyco locomotives have only one powered truck with the motor mounted right on it. There should be a tab on each side of the shell holding the truck in place. Spread the shell apart and the truck assembly will drop out. Carefully clean and oil all moving parts using light machine oil on the motor bearings and axles, and gear lubricant on the geartrain. Clipper oil should be available at Wal-mart, K-mart, etc., in the area where they sell pet supplies. Look for electric pet clippers and the oil should be in that general area. Some stores also sell home barber sets and the oil might be there, too. An alternative is any very light machine oil such as 3-in-1, but use very sparingly on your track. Rubbing alcohol can be used to clean locomotive and rolling sotck wheels. It doesn’t do much good to clean locomotive wheels if you don’t also clean rolling stock wheels, because the rolling stock can quickly spread dirt onto the track, especially if it has an oily coating. Tyco and Bachmann trains are usually

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That’s great! I got my start in 1977 with Bachmann set. I had an oval on 1/2 sheet of plywood with a paper mache mountain, a station, and a team track… All nostalgic now…!

The brass track should be fine, once it is cleaned and soldered. It needs a bit more cleaning than nickel silver, but is fine for a starter project. The cleaning is required since the oxide of brass does not conduct electricity, while the oxide of nickel silver does, so you can get away with less maintenance.

Be sure to use a heat sink on either side of the joint (a wet cloth, or heavy metal object set on the rails will work). Also use flux, and tin everything before so that the actual soldering only takes a few seconds.

Not really, but you should leave some gaps for expansion. In this case, use the rail joiners to keep everything aligned, but allow a small gap when you fasten the trac

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[:)] Hey guy. Looks like you’ve gotten a lot of great responses. It’s good to see that most model railroaders enjoy sharing info and experience.

My only suggestion: Tyco and Bachmann locomotives from the 70s and early 80s run very poorly. I still remember living my Tyco days in the 1970s with “Jerkmotion-Locomotion!” While your kids are young, its good to let them enjoy smooth running performance. Since cost is one of your criteria, consider purchasing Athearn locomotives. Go with 4 axle units such as an F7 or GP35. You can risk six axle units but make sure that your track work is “snug”. Athearn locomotives can often be found used, in good condition. For many “serious” modelers, Athearns have ususally been the first step in going from the toy-like Tycos to entry level modeling. Can’t go wrong here. Hope this helps!

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I have used AMI instant roadbed and was pleased with the results. It is self-adhesive
and will stick to plywood or foam.After it is layed,you simply press the track into
place. Ballast is then applied directly onto the roadbed and pressed in. Vaccuum
the excess and your done.

Proto 2000 locos are very nice models. I have an FA1and FA1-FB1set.They are
smooth runners and are easily converted to DCC and sound if you decide to do so in the future. Dave

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Do NOT use 3 in 1 oil anywhere near your trains - it degrades the plastic, and will adverse affect many of the paints used.

Alcohol may also attack the paint.

MAAS metal cleaner polish seems to be the best for cleaning track.

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Thanks again for all the answers to the laundry list of questions. I can hardly wait to begin making repairs. [:)]

DT

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DT–

I too tried to resurrect my old Tyco locomotives from the '70s a couple of years ago, but gave up after buying a couple of new Athearns and Proto 1000 locos. I’d keep the Athearn but wouldn’t put too much effort into the other old ones.

The Proto 2000 locos are very nice, and excellent runners. However, the Proto 1000 locos are on sale, too, and are also excellent runners. I have Erie-Builts, C-liners and F3s, and while they don’t have all the fine details as my Proto 2000s, fine details get broken if the locos are handled.

Gary