How many of you guys who use flex track (HO), only use it on straight runs, then, use 18" or 24" or 30" etc. curve sections rather than bend the flex into radius curves?
I’ve done that and it worked very well for me. I got tired of always having to make sure the rails cuts on curves were just so.
ya know that is a great idea. Within that line of thinking that kinda would limit the radi of curves that you could use
Since I lay flex to metric radii, that isn’t an option for me. Actually, I wouldn’t even if I could. There are tie detailing issues that sectional track would change from difficult to impossible.
Theres also the matter of my concrete tie mainline. Does anyone make sectional track with concrete ties?
Just my [2c].
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I used up as much of my sectional 18" radius track as I could, but I’ll use flex for everything from now on. I like the smooth running better, and the “unconstrained” feeling I get when laying out flex track is just a lot easier to deal with.
I’ve still got a bunch of 18" sectional laying around somewhere. It’s not much of a concern to me anymore.
I had to do that on my first layout, across a slightly curved trestle as a matter of fact. I used EZ-Track because I was familiar with it, and learned to get 22" curves early…thank goodness. But there was the trestle where snap track would not do, so I cut the length I needed, joined it to one end where the snap track left off, and slid the joiners onto the other end. It turned out that I didn’t even need to glue or nail the flex section onto the trestle deck. I had miraculously cut the rails so well that it held its curve and position nicely with just the joiners. The other time was when I wanted an odd length of tangent over a bridge and I couldn’t get sections of snap to line up with the rest of the configuration. Same process.
I did that on the last N scale layout I built, hmm, about 27 years ago. I wasn’t sure I could do a smooth curve with the flex so I used sectional track to make the curves and filled int he rest beween turnouts with flex track.
My last layout before this one only had 1 curve, so I just used a couple pieces of sectional. This one is all flex.
–Randy
Fourteen months ago, when I returned to the hobby, I thought that was solid thinking. I built a layout using sectional track on cork. I found it to be just awful. Way too many joints to deal with. I scrapped the entire layout, started over and the only thing that is ‘sectional’ on my new layout is the turnouts. No, I don’t think it is a good idea.
Having said that, if one is content with a plywood or 2" foam table, using Kato’s Unitrack seems to have some advantage, assuming you are not turned off by the ‘standard’ uniform roadbed and the higher cost. I think newbies like myself might get to running trains quicker and more reliably using that strategy.
When I expand my layout later this year, I’ll be using flex track.
Joe
See my blog for other comments on track.
NEVER! NEVER!! NEVER!!!
I do recommend the practice for those who are expanding sectional track layouts or train sets. Typically, flex track is a little frightening to someone who has only used sectional track. I push these folks to start learning to use flex track on straights and small curves such as coming out of a turnout on a spur. Getting good joints on a 180 degree 18" radius curve with flex track is not always easy the first time.
Me, I went straight from sectional track to all hand laid due to tight budget and desire for improved looks (and I too struggled with good joints on 180 degree 18" radius curves).
just my thoughts
Fred W
I’ve used both methods, sectional curves and pure flex. It just depends on the location/situation. For instance, in a WYE. I want certain radi to fit the WYE, or one leg of it, into a specific location, so I’ve used sectional track for quicker/easier laying.
Tilden
I did that way back when I didn’t have a perminant layout, and using sectional track. I knew I would have to take it down soon anyway, so I didn’t want to commit the track to a (this weeks) specific layout design. But that was, ummm, ummmmm, ummmmmmm 40 years ago.
I like to build easments into my curves so flex track is the only way to go. Getting a curve to look good with flex is not hard to do.
Tomikawa said,“Theres also the matter of my concrete tie mainline. Does anyone make sectional track with concrete ties?”
I’m pretty sure Model Engineering makes concrete tie flex track. Somebody does anyway I’ve seen it in the shops.
I’ve used both methods and the sectional track that came with the trainset that started it all is still in the box, where it belongs. A dremel tool and a soldering iron is all I need. I bought a set of styrene templates (20-30 inch radii) which made the laying out of the subroadbed a lot easier. Unfortunately, the company I got them from has disappeared. I’m sure there are others out there. I solder the flex-track with the track straight. Before I bend it, I remove 2-3 ties so that the joint won’t bind, then bend it to the radius. I use Atlas code 83 and it has the nail holes in the ties only drilled partway through. If you want to use rail spikes to hold the track in place, make sure you open these holes first. Since then, I’ve discovered latex caulk and push pins. Just run a small bead (about 1/8 - 1/4 inch wide) and spread it thin with a putty knife. Push the track down into it. If it squishes up between the ties, you have too much. I use push pins to hold the track in place until the caulk dries. The nice thing about the latex caulk is that it allows the track to come up easily if you need to make changes. I’ve read some other posters using Liquid Nails to hold down their track, but in my experience, it’s hard to get the track up without destroying it.
I keep the ties that I removed and notch them where the tie plates are. It’s just a matter of slipping them under the rails once the caulk dries. Ballasting will hold these ties in place.
I think Atlas makes sectional track with concrete ties.