I’m in the market to upgrade to a decent airbrush for hobby work, and I’ve been doing a little online research. What, specifically should I be looking for in an airbrush? It will be used almost exclusively for model train work (at least for now, I can’t afford more than 1 major hobby). Do I need a double action unit, or will single action work as well? Should it be internal or external mix? Gravity feed or siphon? What size of needle would be best?
I have seen in earlier posts that a lot of users recommend Paasche or Badger units as reasonably priced, good quality tools. Is there a specific model that someone who is learning how to paint properly should or should not be using (ie. particular models that are more or less forgiving in inexperienced hands)?
The budget is limited (I’d prefer to spend my discretionary income on trains), but there’s not a lot of point in buying something that will only be of limited use as my skills develop.
Do solvent based paints require a different primer than acryllics? Does primer need to be thinned? Should you have one airbrush for primer & another for paint? I’m going to be trying out Floquil paint, and if I’m successfull with it, I’ll probably switch to that almost exclusively. Is there a brand of primer that works particularly well with Floquil?
I know it’s a lot of questions (and no doubt there will be more), but I think with this info I can start to get a handle on what’s needed.
So many questions, so many possible answers! Asking what is the best airbrush can be quite a personal question - how many different types are there out there? Each person who has a different one will say theirs is the best, because not very many of us have had experience with multiple airbrushes.
Might be an idea to invest in one of MR’s books, I found this one on their online shop:
I have been using a Badger airbrush for nearly 20 years that I received from my grandpa who actually bought it for himself back in the early 80s. I am by no means a pro, and the airbrush is only used for hobbies (plastic car/plane/ship models, and TRAINS of course!) but I have never had to replace a part or had an issue in that time…paint clogs yes, but those were my fault! The unit is smooth and easy to operate. It sounds like you are a lot like me, I don’t want to spend my money on a new airbrush, the thing could become a hobby in itself…I am always more tempted by the loco under the glass than the airbrushes anyway. I wish I knew the model number of my brush, but I’ll describe it and you may be able to take that to a cataloge or your hobby shop and get better info. Badger (Early 80s, siphon feed, internal mix, also has a blue body barrel) I am sure they make a similar model today as this was a basic “upgraded” unit for those not wanting to spend $$$ but have a good brush. Also remember to get a good air compressor, too. This is half the battle. I run a Badger model 80-1 Oil-less piston compressor of 80s vintage…as with the brush, I have had no problems, just have had to replace the filter.
Paints - I used to use enamel…too messy, smelly, etc. I almost had to exit the hobby when I got married because I couldn’t work on anything as it made my wife sick in our first apartment. Then I discovered acrylics…awsome. I learned it was a lot easier to clean up and looked just as good as enamel, especially on military/trains…though I still use enamel on 1:24 auto bodies I build from time to time. Be careful with any acrylics, they can build up and clog your brush in no time. I use every manufacturer out there…Floquil,Polyscale, Testors (not the old glass bottles but ModelMaster)…the two first ones are going to fill the bill for railroad colors, but I think they are all good, I’m not picky.
When I first started painting models with an airbrush, I used an external mix Paasche Model H. It has three needle sizes, allowing you a quick change for different paint viscosities. Very easy to clean and I highly recommend it for a beginner. Bear in mind, it will not do fine detailing or weathering, but it does a marvelous job of painting models.
Once you get past the initial hesitation of starting airbrushing and have become comfortable with it, you might upgrade to an internal mix single action brush. That means you push down on the button to get the air to flow and adjust the amount of paint with the back end of the needle, adjusting it as you would when hand-tightening a screw or bolt. An internal mix does a better job of spraying Modelflex, PolyS and other water-based paints because the internal mixing gives better aeration of the paint. I have a Badger 200 that I have grown very fond of.
Should you become interested in weathering effects, the next step is an internal mix double action brush. You push down to get air flow, but then you just pull BACK a little or a lot on the same button to regulate the amount of paint that comes out. This is really good for weathering, fading, etc. They have a reputation for being difficult to clean. I haven’t found disassembling and cleaning either my Badger 200 or Badger Anthem 155 any more difficult of time consuming than disassembling to clean the Passche.
The best airbrush is the one that feels the best in your hand. I really like the Paasche chunkiness and the feel of the Badger Anthem.
If you decide to use the services of a hobbty shop to test the feel of the various brushes, you will probably only find Paasche and Badger. There are other good manufacturers of brushes, Iawata amongst them; they’re just not well, or at all, represented in most hobby shops. I have found the art supply stores not helpful at all. They seem to look down their nose
Mr Groff gives a lot of good advice. I’ll throw my 2 cents in.
Consider a Badger 350 as a good inexpensive begineer’s brush. Try to get the set that has 3 tips, a color cup, a couple bottles, and hose. Start with the medium tip. Watch Walthers’s for a sale on this, or a similar external mix Paasche or Badger. Graduate up to an internal mix. Also, you’ll need a compressor. Bite the bullet and buy a decent quality diaphragm type compressor made for air brushing. It will be quiet and serve you for years. Don’t buy an airbrush if you are unwilling to buy a compressor. Forget the small ($100) “Sears” units. Floquil is a very good paint and lasts longer in the bottle (water base paints last maybe 2 years tops onced opened) then water based paints, also its easier to clean the air brush because the water based stuff tends to dry and clog the brush if not cleaned up promptly, BUT, adequate ventilation ( a spray booth or do it outside) is mandatory with Floquil. This is not to imply the water based paint isn’t very good stuff.
Finally, once you get the hang on air brushing, you won’t be staisfied with brush painting except for small “trim”. Learn more, and don’t go the cheapest route.
I financed the hobby by custom painting for about 30 years (I finally quit when I decided that I’d rather spend my time on my own stuff and that the factory paint was better than what I could do). I used 2 Paasche air bushes, a model H and a model VL. The rationale was that the H could be used for general work (being easier to clean than the VL) while the VL would be used for stuff that required better control (weathering and such). As things worked out I wound up using the VL about 95% of the time. I don’t know what the price diferential is now (I bought them sometime in the early 70s) but buying something that’s practically indestructible by price w/ the expectation of getting the improved model later is false economy.
Jimrice-Is the VL really that much better then the H for weathering and detail? I’ve had an H for years with a #5 tip and recently bought a #1 for it. I was amazed how much more detail I got switching to a smaller tip. Would a VL be even better?
I’ve had both the VL and H for 20 years and I can’t remember the last time I picked up the H. Since switching to acylics (I love them) more than 10 years ago I find the VL easier to both use and clean. During a painting session I just run water thru the brush and the cup until it sprays clear, then go to the next color, I only disassemble the brush for thorough cleaning when I’m done for the day
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