OK , got my yard/station buildings are painted and before I set glazing (window glass) ,should I spray with a light dullcoat ?? since some of the trim is done in a glossy type paint while the base colors is flatish tan color.
the buildings are all cornerstone kits ,clarksville station,couple a gatesman towers,and a trackside structures incl. a tower,a speader shed,an a shanty there all a tan(flat) & hunter green(gloss) trim decore .
I think Id like to have a 1960 w/ light weathered look( more in the yard structures)
I highly regard the input I get on this type of questions, from you guys …Jerry
I recently built a number of small structures (first attempts at laser kits). All are lightly weathered with a wash, and then BRUSHED with dull cote.
You do not want to get any on the glazing, and a long bristled soft flat brush will allow you to coat what you want. I used Model Master flat clear laquer finish, and a little goes a long way.
The fact is, there are few things in nature or “outside” that are shiny. And I’ve found that a coat of Dull Cote or flat clear finish really makes a nice difference.
Nothing except brand new paint job in a glossy tone on ANY 1:1 building looks “shiny” and stays that way.
I would treat with dullcote after painting {before the window glazing}, then I weather with weathing powders, and then spray coat with dullcote again to hold the weathering.
Another Yes vote. I like to make decals for the sides of my structures - old advertising always brings smiles from people who remember Carters Little Liver Pills and the like. Apply decals first, and then use Dull-Coat to protect the decals.
With some structures, you almost have to install glazing before final dullcoting. I just cut out little pieces of masking tape to stick on the glazing in those cases.
Yes, and don’t just think “Dullcote” by brand. For structures I like Americana brand acrylic flat finish, which I find at craft stores. I think it sprays nicer than Dullcote and it’s a better value since it comes in larger cans for a similar price.
DullCote turns gloss paint (and glossy plastic) into flat. In real life anything exposed to the weather (siding, trim, porches, railings,roofs,whatever) is flat. You increase the realism or your models by giving them a flat finish, which a coat of DullCote will achieve.
On thing to beware of, DullCote “marries” into chalk weathering and makes the chalk turn invisible, like you never applied the chalk at all. If you weather with chalks, apply the chalk AFTER (on top of) the DullCote other wise the chalk cannot be seen. Chalk will stick to structures with out a sealer coat, 'cause structures don’t get handled much, at least not much compared with rolling stock.
DullCote is good sprayed on top of decals. It makes the glossy decal film turn invisible, so the decal looks right.
If the entire model has been painted in a flat paint you don’t really need DullCote on top. The flat paint looks right just as it is. The only reason to apply DullCote over a flat paint job is to seal in the decals, if the structure has decals.
Dullcote or any other flat finish (I like Tamiya spray cans myself) will “dissolve” chalk weathering as noted, but not powdered charcoal. You can buy a fairly big plastic container of it at a local art supply store. I like to brush it on fairly thick, then wipe some of it off with a soft paper towel so there’s a “patina” left on the model. The charcoal tends to settle into cracks and crevices (like the space between boards on a wood building or freight car) so kinda brings them out better…kinda like adding “shadows” to the structure or car.