I am continuing on my journey into this wonderful hobby, and have decided to add some additional benchwork to the table that I inherited from my uncle. My plan is to eventually make use of the entire spare room in the basement, thus requiring a means to remove a section of track/benchwork to allow access to the room and the storage closet within the room. While I know that many layout plans utilize a duck-under to access the train room, due to physical restrictions, this is not an option for me. And, since my wife is more then happy to allow me to use the entire floor space of what could have been a spare room, I don’t think I should make it as easy as possible for her to access the storage closet!
As I was doodling dream plans for the future development of benchwork, I started to wonder if anyone had ever tried a rolling island that connects two parts of a layout in place of a liftout or swing-gate? (Actually, I should not take credit for this idea, it actually came from my wife who had just finished reading a House and Home magazine article about building a small moveable kitchen island on wheels.) Based upon reading posts in this forum as well as model railroader’s personal websites and articles in the Model Railroader magazines from the '80s that I inherited with the table and rolling stock, I have some notions about how to connect the power and ensure a reasonable degree of accuracy when ‘connecting’ the rolling island to the stationary portions of the benchwork.
I would very much welcome feedback on this idea. I will be more then happy to include details of my notions and anything that would help to get advice, suggestions, etc. Oh, and since I am sure that it will be relevant, I should mention that we live in the cold white north of Canada, and as a result the humidity and to a lesser extent temperature in the basement
I considered using a Rubber-maid cart, which I have on hand, as a base and implementing that very idea. I rejected the idea only because in my particular application I did not want it resting on the floor as it opened and closed. If not for that unique requirement, I would have tried it. The wiring and alignment accuracy issues are the same as the swing gate that I actually constructed, it would just rest on the cart instead of hanging on the hinges.
I would suggest a keystone shape so that it will move easily in and out of the opening and fit flush when closed. I would make a small ledge at each edge so that it is supported at the exact same height every time it closes. A secure latch system is essential to keep it aligned when closed.
Power can be routed via inexpensive plugs like those used on a computer power supply. They are keyed so that they cannot be plugged in backward. You can even use inexpensive audio cables and jacks if you like.
Most people prefer a way to disconnect the power to adjacent tracks when the gate is open so that you never have a train launch into the abyss.
Power connections would be pretty easy to do without plugs. There are plates available that attach to one surface while the mating surface has spring loaded pins. When the 2 pieces are pushed together, these pieces contact each other. The spring loaded pins allow for some misalignment. I used to use these for certain applications in car doors back when I did custom stereo installation. They work great. When the pieces are pulled apart, the connection automatically breaks. There is no maintenance and no unplugging to do.
All you need are a couple of alignment pins or dowels in one surface with corresponding slots in the other. This will hold them together in proper alignment. This too is easy. How to actually secure them though can be done in a couple of ways. One would be to use a fence gate type of connection where a hinged piece attaches to the other table. Another method would be to install a long strip magnet to each mating surface. It shouldn’t take much to hold the tables together and the pins will insure it is where it needs to be. This way you could just wheel the island up to the end and it automatically connects. When you want to move it, just pull it away. Easy. No connections or other moving parts. Just my .02
I’ve seen this done a couple of times. One small challenge is that if the floor is slightly uneven or the wheels slightly out-of-round, it can be a little trickier to get the ends of the track to line up reliably over time than it is with a hinged swing gate or lift gate.