I’m not quite up to full fledged operations but I am in the process of testing and debugging my mainline. Yesterday I ran my first 25 car freight over the entire mainline and overall I was pleased with the performance. There was an accidental uncoupling leaving the yard. My BLI Hudson struggled to make it up my 1.75% grade. I had to back her down and take a flying run at the hill and it barely made it on the second try. It looks like this is going to be a helper district for long freights, which I look on as an enhancement to operations. Returning to the yard, several cars derailed at the same troublesome turnout so some maintenance is needed there.
The rude surprise came when I tried to break the trains down with my BLI SW7 switcher. It couldn’t budge the long train. It just spun it’s wheels. Many of the cars in the trains were older models that probably need new wheel sets but I’m not sure this is going to make enough of a difference. I think I’m going to have to split the train in two upon entering the yard. The problem is I have below track uncouplers at either end of each yard track but now I need one in the middle. Unfortunately, I already ballasted the yard. Yes, I know I should have made the test runs before ballasting but that would have made too much sense. The choice now is to pull up the track and add a below track uncoupler, install an unsightly between-the-track uncoupler, or use one of those hand held uncouplers. None of those options is very appealing. I have two of the SW7s which I had planned to work separately at opposite ends of the yard. I suppose for the real long trains I could consist them until the train is reduced to a manageable length. I’m not sure I like that option any better. How prototypical would that be to doublehead the yard switchers?
If you change out the wheel sets to Inter Mountain or Proto you will be amazed by the difference. All my cars have been converted to steel wheels. You may also want to invest in the “Tool” which is reems out the the wheel sockets and makes a big difference in reducing drag.
Once you change out the wheels to metal, you may find your Hudson may be able to make that grade with the 25 car freight. Oh well, you can still use a helper. I would… [;)][:D]
Welcome to the real world of railroading. Southern Railway not only used 2 switchers, but in the 50’s they even started using “slugs”. For those of you not familiar with slugs, in railroad terminology, it is a unit which has no diesel engine or generator, but has the traction motors in the trucks. It draws its power from the adjoining unit(s). Switchers are capable of generating more electricity than they need or can use at yard speeds, so this excess electricity can power the slug to get more tractive effort. According to one of my books, a pair of NW2’s with 1 slug between them has a top yard speed of 9 MPH. Entirely suitable for a yard. Another page in that book even shows 3 switchers MU’d together.
So, it all boils down to this: Yes, it is entirely accurate for switchers to run together.
BTW, could a real Hudson haul 25 loaded cars up a 1.75% grade? My book says a Mikado could only handle 1750 tons on the “Rat Hole” line, and if you figure 75 tons per car (25 tons empty weight and 50 tons cargo weight), that comes out to 23 cars plus 1 caboose. I don’t remember the “ruling grade” on that subdivision, but I wouldn’t think it’s over 2%. So it seems fairly realistic (to me) that maybe 25 cars is too much for a Hudson to haul up that grade.
Yes, go with the two consisted switchers. Even with my limited knowledge of prototype railroad operations, in my opinion, it would seem MORE prototypical, not less to see multiple switchers working together.
I have the M1a 4-8-2 so tomorrow I am going to give that a test with a 25 car train. There is a 90 degree turn about halfway up the grade so this no doubt adds to the drag. It was just beyond this turn that the Hudson started slipping. I had planned on using helpers up this grade anyway so I don’t see this as a problem, just a good reason to all a little added interest into the operating scheme. I designed this hill with a split mainline with a steeper grade on the downhill side, slightly over 2%.
As for your uncoupler problem are you familiar with uncoupling and then bringing the two couplers back together so they do not couple but just the kuckles are offset and they can be pushed as far as you like. Stop the train where you want it to seperate and back into the siding. This only works in reverse Good luck.
Why would you think a lowly switcher could handle the same tonnage as a road loco?
It is entirely prototypical for a switcher to put together a train that it can’t budge, and to have to disassemble an arriving train in small cuts of cars. Sounds like your locos are “scale powered” very well!
REAL trains are switch by blocks…No switch engine ever made could pull a (say)12,000 ton train without breaking it down or being mu’ed with another switcher,calf or slug…I seen EMD switcher with 2 calves. switching the yard and working the hump.So,its not your engine.
Before rushing out to buy replacement wheels for the SW, give your new engines some running time so that the high gloss on the treads is worn a bit. I think you’ll find the pulling power improves. This is true of brass steam and I suspect the same is true of BLI and other makes.
Some guys try to hurry the process by rubbing the wheel with abrasive but this is not a great idea if it creates areas for dirt to stick. And soaking the wheel in a mild etchant such as vinegar might be impractical if it means having to disassemble the engine (although no more so than if you followed the advice to replace the wheel sets)
Athearn uses (or at least used to use) sintered metal wheels, meaning it was powdered metal cast into shape and those wheels seems to pull better when the engine was new and gradually got smoother.
You might also want to take a good close look at that 1.75% grade. There might be portions of it that are more than 1.75%. Some trackwork may be in order. High drivered steam would and should have a problem with such a grade. Don’t forget that the prototype Hudson was built for the “water level route.”
Dave Nelson
BLI, are the unit with sound or stealth? I had a passenger run that worked fine with one locomotive for years. Replaced the Proto-2000 locomotive with one with sound and it couldn’t make the grade. The weight difference between a unit with sound and without made the difference. Had to power the B unit on that train.
Dave said:Athearn uses (or at least used to use) sintered metal wheels, meaning it was powdered metal cast into shape and those wheels seems to pull better when the engine was new and gradually got smoother.
That is true…However,I still fully believe and maintain that the older engines with BRASS wheels and on BRASS track will out pull any engine made today.