I have been trying to come up with a method for putting a complete image of my track plan on a control panel so that I could have various switches mounted directly on the plan. Ideally I wanted the image to show turnouts and blocks.
Current layout software can export track plans as an image file.
The various copy centers (Kinkos, etc.) have the ability to print these image files onto adhesive backed vinyl.
So one can print up an appropriately sized banner of their track plan, and then stick it to the face of their panel. This way all turnouts, blocks, etc. are present.
It may also be an interesting way to work with buildings, backdrops, etc. Take a photo of a scene. On the computer resize it to the desired size, and then have it printed out as a banner and mount it on foamcore board or thin plywood.
Great idea! I already use building images that I customize in Photoshop, print out, and glue to foamcore. in fact, everything in this picture is foamcore buildings:
Not to say it’s a bad idea or anything. Before trying this, be forwarned if you use a physical copy of your track plan (or photo) that has been scaled down for a control panel, you can get in trouble with a couple things.
If you plan to use momentary pushbutton switches and light indicators for switch tracks, you may have trouble squeezing them in depending on the switches you buy and your track plan. Especially with crossovers and yard ladders.
the plan may take up more width than you really need. Width is something you want to keep to a mininum for ease of operation and breathing room around the layout.
I think you will find that John Long is correct. The adjacent tracks will be much to close together and the open areas will be to much wasted space. The track plan needs to look like that on the old prototype control tower boards. Which is a a modified plan with long straights shortened and track spaces widened. I did several of these back in the dark ages of HO using two methods. One simply used colored tape for the tracks and the other was done by painting a base coat and then using narrow tape to mask the plan and then applying a contrasting color. Then removing the tape and ending up with the track plan. Either way is a lot of tedious work, that’s why I didn’t do it for my O gauge layout.
Chris,
I’m just about to start wiring my layout and this is what I came up with for my level 1 control panel.
There will be two mainlines, divided into 3 blocks, 1 yard with 4 sidings, one reversing loop, and a transition branch to the second level. There will be 1 rotary switch for each ‘block’ for a total of 12 on this level. The numbers over the switches correspond with a like numbers switch controller that will be below the control panel. There are three paired switches in this plan.
I would agree with what John and John said. My controll panel was made with a piece of hard-board(masonite. I think thats how you spell it, my spelling is awful), and paint markers (fine point) in varying collors. I used a straight edge and basic drafting triangles for the lines. All in pencil first, then when every thing was how I wanted it I traced it out with paintmarkers and a straightedge. Then I used the leftover single letters and numbers from the wire lables I bought for the wiring. Iam in the process of adding lighted push button’s for the switches.
Edit- Just in case anbody wondered. The switches are DPDT. One side of the DPDT is for layout wiring and the other side of the DPDT is for controll panel lighting. That way I could have constant low voltage power for the controll panel lights. When DPDT switch is set to the green light it’s conventional mode and when they are set to the blue it’s constant 18volts for TMCC.
For maximum control panel meaning in minimum size, a schematic representation of the track plan is the only way to fly. Mine is laid out on 1/8" thick yellow styrene sheet (from some old displays that my former employer had consigned to the trash bin) with Dymo tape - suitably embossed with block identification.
After all the Dymo tape was in place I covered the entire panel with clear vinyl shelf paper. Some of the Dymo was in short pieces that didn’t want to stay put - the clear overlay cured their wanderlust.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with HOj tinplate rolling stock)
I don’t have it up right now because of trackplan change, but my cheapskate panel is 1/8" pegboard masonite covered by wide white vinyl self adhesive shelf liner[grocer] and the track schematic is laid out with narrow colored auto striping[Auto Zone].
At turnout placements on the schematic/board, I had the wye of the “thru” and “out” legs of the turnout striping spread enough to accommodate installation my single pole min-toggles[fit the peg holes]. I solder the wires to the toggles. I have DC Tortoise “stall” switchmotors that won’t burn out and for that reason my simplistic operation was to just throw either way and based on the toggle handle’s fixed position within the schematic I always know the position of my turnout. I will have 32 turnouts [18 currently] and will have 8 or 10 terminal strips on the panel back to enable wiring and distribution of power out through the blue and yellow #18 to diodes [AC tranny] and on to the DC Tortoises. Early turnouts were Curtis, later Ross–all good stuff.
Currently I am throwing turnouts from Cab 1 via IC Control’s Accessory Switch Controllers[ASC]. The layout is far from finished and I can still see the red or green switchstand lights indicating turnout position. But eventually structures and scenery will block the view and, anyway, I prefer my old simplistic way in my old age!
I have my Vac[0-25V] and Aac[0-20A] Panel Meters in a separate [hinged] panel. I have the Comm Base, 3 TPCs, 3 PowerGards, ACSs, OTCs, etc, and the 45 degree tilted panels on a 4’x16" 36" high formica shelf with all the PoHo transformers on a shelf below. Shelf is slotted to enable wire to go straight down and tie into terminal[barrier] strips for careful distribution of railpower to track and “juice” to accessories. Used 8 colors of wire plus one candy striped which is helpful for tracing and reinstalling when retur
Brent: Your plan looks great! You are far more ambitious than I am. I looked at using rotary switches when I was working on layout plans. Once I saw all the contacts on them I chickened out and simplified my track plan instead… [:)]
To All: Some great comments here and I have greatly appreciated reading and pondering them.
I printed my layout out on several sheets of paper, resizing it until I found an overall size that is easy to look at, and comfortably fits the toggles (13 large toggles) I purchased for block control without interfering with controls for turnouts.
I will probably use metal screws and a probe to activate the turnouts. While I did find some toggles that would work for the turnouts, they are smaller than I would like for day in and day out use.
Besides since I don’t have TMCC, DCS, or Odyssey, I have to add some type of magic wand mystery to how the operation works. (Maybe I’ll decorate the probe with pink hearts, yellow moons, orange stars, green clovers, and blue diamonds)
