[xx(]
I must be the dumbest person on earth when it comes to doing
wiring and cab control,etc.
Seriously, though, here is my new roadblock to operations:
[?] I have done my main DC panel and all of the mainline is
wired in correctly ( one wire at a time, very carefully ) and works
well. [B)] I NEED SOMEONE TO EXPLAIN HOW TO WIRE A
D ouble P ole D ouble T hrow switch to link a yard / siding.
What I want to do is switch the power from the main panel to
a sub panel so another operator can independantly control that
area on a separate DC power pack. I know about the Atlas product,
but am using a conventional “Radio Shack” DPDT 6-prong mini-switch .
The man at the counter was helpful for basic hook-up, but I need to
know how to apply it to Model Railroads. HO scale. THANX BUNCHES.
[:)]
KEN_ECR
Whoah, way over my head.
Dude, you need an electrician. Go back to radio crap and return those.
Use the atlas thing and make it simple for yourself. Why go through all
the trouble?? Too many things out there to make this hobby simple.
The Atlas components and the Radio Shack DPDT switch are functionally the same thing, and should wire the same way.
With the RS switch, the terminals should be in three pairs. Connect the part that doesn’t change to the middle, and the parts that you’re selecting from to the outside pairs.
For example: to run one track from two power supplies, you would connect the track to the middle pair, and one power supply to each of the other pairs.
See the picture here:
http://members.trainorders.com/bentnosewillie/Other/BlockSwitch.jpg
It is very easy to do but not so easy to explain without pictures. Electronics is one of my other hobbies so if you would like to see how to do this and/or how I have my DC CTC panel wired, contact me via my profile.
[?] MR where’s the DC fourm? [?]
Well I’ll try!!! Your switch will have six contacts on the back like this
(two rows of three if it didn’t print correctly)
When the switch is in one direction the center two contacts (the middle one in each set of three contacts) are connected to one end set of contacts so the center contact on one side can only be connected to the end contacts on the same side. Since you want the track in question to be operated by two different power sources (not at the same time obviously) you need to connect the leads from that track to the CENTER two contacts (one on each side). Those are the ones that are always in play regardless of which way the switch is thrown. Then connect one set of leads from one source to one end set of cointacts and one set of leads to the other end of the switch. REMEMBER that the two rows of three contacts are each one side of the circuit so don’t connect the two leads from one source to either end of the switch. Think of them as three pairs not two sets of three. If you get a double pole, double throw, center off switch you get one added feature. Instead of the track always connected to either end set of contacts you get one more click in the middle of the throw which is an off position so neither end is connected. This is great for isolating the track. It really isn’t hard and just takes a little practice. If I was doing it at 17 you shouldn’t have any great problems. After you are done just do a quick check to make sure the power is going the way you want. If it isn’t check it out. You can always connect eveyrthing with test wire using aligator clips and the just replace them with wire one at a time.
Here’s a diagram for 2-cab block control. http://members.cox.net/dbhuff/dsrr/images/cabcontrol.jpg
Cab A switch controls train 1’s direction (eastbound-westbound). Cab B switch controls train 2’s direction. Track Switch controls which Cab has control of the block.
THANX A QUADTRILLION, GUYS.
I came home from work to get my answers and felt so much
better. After printing out these diagrahms, I see just how simple this will
be to do. I originally wanted to use an ATLAS TWIN , but found that I needed
a smaller component on the fascia for looks and safety.
Once again, To ALL, I CAN MOVE ON, and run my new industry .
ken_ecr
this is what the forum is all about… questions, discussions/ interests, solutions. Glad it’s worked out.
This is explained SO thoroughly in Andy Sperandeo’s wiring book (also the old Linn Westcott wiring book).
Dave Nelson