AB unit drawbars

I am probably late to this picnic, but does anyone sell ready made drawbars for Proto A & B units? Any thoughts on using them vs couplers?

Thanks,

Joe

I have not heard of any, they are too easy to make your self.

Get a piece of ABS or similar .050" thick by .200" to .250" wide by what ever length - most of us have something close enough lying around - an old CD (which is polycarb) even. Drill two holes the desired distance apart, cut out the draw bar with a coping saw, file to final shape - 10 minutes to make.

DRAW BARS of course permantly couple two units together - ala (steam) engine & tender.

The early ‘FT’ diesels came with draw bar’d A & B’s, and were sold in pairs to compete with the then, prevelent steam power. ATSF ordered theirs with all-knuckle couplers for flexibility. Most later ‘F’ units came with knuckle couplers.

STEWART’s ‘FT models’ offered draw bars for their A & B’s.

I ran an all-draw bar’d, all-powered, ABBB set for show. It would pull anything with wheels, but linking and un-linking 4 engines with draw bars was a real pain. Others, when handling them, constantly broke the connections. a bigger pain.

I converted back to couplers. It still pulls - but so do my all powered, four unit, F-3’s using KD #450 couplers.

Lesson learned.

I used to run 5 F7’s draw barred together. The draw bars were easy enough to make using pieces cut from an old credit card.

Having just got my P2K E8/9 Amtrak A-B [^] pair I’m interested to know both if this coupler will be good for them and what sort of curve they will get round if close coupled… PLEASE?

TIA [8D]

As for the original question… I would always stick with couplers and not use drawbars… except where steam tenders collect power from the 2 rail…

[:D]

Put a screw in the coupler hole on one unit and cut the head off, attach the drawbar to the other unit with a screw so that the drawbar is snug but will still swivel, makes it much easier to take the consist apart.

Go to Walthers online catalog and use the search feature.Type in drawbar and you will see some choices.I just used the drawbars from State Tool and Die.They are cheap and you get several of three different sizes.I close coupled my Athearn RTR F7AB’s and it looks nice.Check Walthers first to see if the siZe you need is included.Good luck.

I prefer to run Kaydees on there. I did try drawbars with an old Cow and Calf set from Athearn Blue Box and boy did I learn just how BAAAAAD my track work is … or was.

I use slices of old credit cards, too. With a little judicious shimming, I do not need a screw or coupler pocket cover on one unit, just set it down carefully and the pin drops in the hole.

‘E’ engines are like 9" long and come with either Talgo or ‘swivelling’ couplers. Kadee makes a 'swivelling conversion. ‘Body mounting’ is more difficult.

http://www.kadee.com/conv/pdf/l172.pdf

‘E’ engines are like 9" long and come with either Talgo or ‘swivelling’ couplers. Kadee makes a 'swivelling conversion. ‘Body mounting’ is more difficult.

‘E’ engines are like 9" long and come with either Talgo or ‘swivelling’ couplers. Kadee makes a 'swivelling conversion. ‘Body mounting’ is more difficult.

My Proto 2000 E units and PA’s all have swivel mount coupler pockets. I use Kadee #5’s on all of them. I just put two E units back to back on a curve (all my curves are 18" radius) and measured the distance corner to corner at the closest point. it was 3/16’s of an inch (about 1 and a third scale feet [1 1/3’])

I have used dummy couplers on the AB connection. They have the ability to be seperated when needed and are solid.

The ones I use were made by Front Range and can be coupled to Kadee #5’s if needed.

Something to think about.

Doug

I used this tip about a month ago to link by P1K F3 units and it has worked outstandingly. With diaphrams added, I didn’t even need to paint teh drawbars because you can’t see them.

Thanks to everyone who responded, I read all these neat comments and did not mean to be rude by failing to thank you for your wisdom! This is on my to-do list!

Joe

Stewart includes plastic drawbars with their FT A/B sets, not sure if they sell them separately or not?? Otherwise as mentioned Walthers does offer some too. Come to think of it, I believe I have an Athearn F7 A/B set that uses a drawbar I got from Walthers, but I can’t remember who made it - maybe Walthers themselves?? Was several years ago now.