How do you fix a sign on the inside of a window?
I Googled “HO scale masquing tape” but didn’t find anything. [:D]
Guy:
I have fastened sighs both to the inside of windows and to the outside of buildings with testors liquid cement. In both cases I was using home made sign on an inkjet printer.
It is best if the sign is laying flat, so the ink has less tendency to run.
Dave
Would it be possible to tack the sign on to a thin piece of clear acetate using a small piece of double stick tape then sandwich it behind your existing structure window?
Careful application of canopy cement might work too but I suggest you experiment with scraps first.
Is it a paper sign? I have printed some window signs directly on to overhead transparency film but, depending on the printer, the resolution can vary quite a bit.
Good Luck, Ed
Guy,
I use GS Hypo cement, but You can also use canopy glue. One tiny drop in four corners of the sign is all that is needed. Goes on clear, drys clear. When dry it looks like part of the sign. Will stick on almost any surface, even painted surfaces.
Everything in this dock office is held inplace with GS Hypo cement, including the styrene window glazing and the plastic window panes and cut open door was also glued with it:
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
Cut some teeny tiny strips of scotch tape. You can do the “neat” way and outline the sign or the “quick and dirty” method of four pieces across the four corners of the sign. Seen both ways in store windows.
Mark.
Hi guy
Good ol PVA wood glue works well if its a home printed sign I sugest sealing it first
regards John
I’ve made a number of window signs into decals and applied them to the windows that way.
I decided to make some tests based on the comments received. I first printed some 40"x50" signs (HO scale) and following John’s advice sealed them with Dullcoat flat finish. I then experimented some of the methods suggested
A- Inspired by Ed’s comment, I used the double sided tape sandwiched between the sign and the styrene window. There are some tiny air bubbles but the result is acceptable if the tape is wheel trimmed according to the sides of the sign.
B- According to Frank’s advice, I put a tiny drop of canopy glue in the four corners of the sign. this method leaves the sign intact but you can see the glue on the sign and on the “glass” if using to much.
C- Following Dave’s advice, I used Testors liquid cement over all the surface of the sign. This method gives a good bound to styrene but not over all the surface. I tried again with more cement but I put some outside the sign, marring the window.
D- I then used canopy glue (Ed, Frank and John) all over the sign, obtaining a result almost like the Testors cement. More easy to use but still, even if the glue is well distributed over the sign, it will leaves areas of different tints. I used diluted canopy glue with the same result (F)
Viewed close by, it is easy to see the flaws of each method depending on the lighting and angle. From a distance there is no noticeable difference to me.
See By yourself.
Thanks to all for the replies.
Guy,
They all look pretty good to Me…except they are all crooked…LOL…I know it’s just for testing purposes…but when I do it and find that I put anything on crooked…for some reason, it always bugs the hell out of Me, even if no one can tell. I just screwed up two Oregon Rail crossbuck flasher kit decals, because one was slightly off center, tried to fix it and messed it up,twice, because of My insanity. LOL.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
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Guy,
They all look pretty good to Me…except they are all crooked…LOL…I know it’s just for testing purposes…but when I do it and find that I put anything on crooked…for some reason, it always bugs the hell out of Me, even if no one can tell. I just screwed up two Oregon Rail crossbuck flasher kit decals, because one was slightly off center, tried to fix it and messed it up,twice, because of My insanity. LOL.
Take Care!
Frank
Frank,
Know what you mean, been there, done that. More times than I care to admit. Welcome to the Nit-Pickers Club of America.
P.S. Definitely NOT a rivet counter, just one of my quirks.
Frank,
I’ve often viewed “real-life” photos and scenes and paid attention to crooked objects, especially utility poles, or sloppy painting (I have a photo of a steel mill building painted in no less than six different colors!) and these things would never translate well to a model layout scene.
I drive past one particular utility pole that is leaning severely, it has a huge transformer out of proportion to the pole size and even the insulators attached to it are all out of whack. If I made an exact scale duplicate and placed it on my layout it would give me a headache… but it would be true-to-life.
I’m in agreement with you unless a modeler can pull it off in the style of George Selios, who seems to have a real talent for modeling urban decay, it just does not look pleasing to the eye when something is askew. drives me bonkers, too!
Ed
Guy,
I’m not sure if I was clear enough in my suggestion. Here’s a sketch:
You should be able to make the tape somewhat smaller than the sign. It just needs to hold the sign in place, then stick this on to a thin piece of acetate slightly larger than your window “glass” that was provided with the kit. That way you can position the acetate, with the sign attached, and place it exactly where you want it, then tape or glue the acetate to the window/building wall.
Is that what you were trying out?
Ed
Ed,
You were certainly clear enough in your suggestion and it might be the best way to get a perfectly clear sign without any trace of glue. Your suggestion gave me the idea to experiment with the tape sandwiched between the sign and the acetate. I just didn’t want to experiment with double pane windows.
However, I will use your suggestion on a diner that is located right on the edge of the layout where any trace of glue or bubble, even tiny, would be noticeable by a discriminating eye.
Thanks for your contribution at my attempts to build a layout that I will be happy with.