I like to build kits for my freight cars. I like the Accurail kits, and Bowser and old Athearn BB as my typical go to kits. I think Accurail and Bowser offer nicely made, fun to build and value oriented kits. I think it’s nice that the truck frames are ok and we get to choose our wheelsets, partly because some want to upgrade, some not, and there are preferences on the upgrades. I usually use the IM ones (but the 100 sets), some P2Ks. The regret of not using the stock ones is minimal as on the margin they are likely a small part of the cost. On the couplers, many would upgrade to Kadees, but some might not. So I’d pay say $12 for a kit, add $4-5 for wheels and good couplers, have the fun of building it, and I’m happy.
For something more challenging or more detailed, I like Tichy (a bargain for what you get), Proto 2000 (out of production, limited choices), and a few others.
I think most kits are cheap entertainment (value for what you get). Some other old brands with translucent yellow plastic, etc, to me look awful so I avoid them.
Occasionally I buy a RTR, examples a recent Bachmann bobber caboose (unique and nice for the price), an Athearn UP caboose, a Walthers Russell snowplow.
Atlas uses genuine Accumates, both the regular and “scale” varieties - even mentioning them on product descriptions like they’re some kind of bonus feature.
I see some mis-information further up the line concerning the Accurail couplers.The ATLAS couplers are made under licence to Accurail.By the way I have no problems with the Accurail couplers ever.The wheel sets I couldn’t tell you if they are problamatic or not since metal wheels are a club requirement.
That’s an interesting observation. While I have my preferences for purchasing new wheels, I don’t replace machined metal wheelsets that come with any current production rolling stock. Such wheels supplied with ExactRail, Intermountain, Walthers, Athearn, Atlas, Tangent, BLMA, and even lower-end manufacturers like Con-Cor and Bachmann, work sufficiently well there isn’t a need to replace them for most of us. I wonder how many modelers have a strong enough preference for a particular brand they insist on replacing these?
“Words mean things”! Easily understood in most cases; but, in this instance I don’t have clue what you’re meaning.
“Accurail kits truly are the “Gold Standard” in my opinion”!
This should have been easily understood; also, I 'm stating my opinion. Yours certainly can be different, which I’m sure it is. The reason I feel Accurail is the “Gold Standard” is because they absolutely fit my desires in a freight car! Obviously I don’t feel tiny, breakable details are as important as some of you feel they are. My opinion is good weathering does far more for realism than details which are at the limit of my older eye site and really aren’t noticed on a moving train, anyway.
Accurail isn’t really the gold standard detail wise. Exactrail earned that title, but considering they are at least $30 per car, it better be. Accurail makes perfect kits for building up you fleet at around $12 per. Accurail’s customer service is the gold standard though.
Now, Kadees and metal wheelsets cost money, and would raise the price of the kits, losing their advantage. Athearn offers RTR with metal wheelsets, but they are over $20, and the couples aren’t much better.
I found it hard to put the couplers together and install them in the first place, and they don’t work well. I suggest Kadees, either #148 or #158. They are “whisker couplers”, which are easy to install, simply take out of packaging and place them in the coupler boxes.
The trucks and wheelsets work perfectly fine for me. Though if you don’t want to use them, they would look great beside the RIP (Repair In Place) track or as a load.
My one complaint about the company: they don’t have more products for the modern era.
No,Accurail will need to buy those wheels from (say)Intermountain and the couplers from KD.This cost along with the added labor(unloading,unpacking then repacking into the kits) will be passed on to the end consumer just like everything else nothing is free.
For what it’s worth, I just finished assembling about a dozen Accurail kits, a “new” Atlas - former Branchline kit - and an older Bowser kit. They all received new Intermountain metal wheel sets, and Kadees, either #5 or # 148. I but the wheels and couplers in bulk sets, so the upgrade cost works out to about two bucks / car. Add that to the average $14.00 cost of an accurail car and it’s still cheaper than most RTR.
Accurail cars are among my favourites, offering good detail at reasonable prices. I don’t use the couplers, but give them to others who do, while the plastic wheelsets they include nowadays work just fine.
As for the trucks, the roller bearing ones (too modern for my layout) are pretty basic, but their version of the Andrews truck takes a back seat to no one, including Tangent.
The cast-on detail is good (and durable), but if you want more, easy enough to add your own - grabirons, stirrup steps, etc.:
…and here’s one built totally stock, except for the lettering:
Almost forgot about Tangent, which is $40-$50+ I believe. If I had over $10,000 just laying around, that would be the best option. For $10,000 you could get about 200 cars at $50 each, though if your spending that much I would hope they would give you a bulk discount. Back in the realistic world, 200 Accurail kits would cost $2,000; then you could buy 10 nice locomotives for another $2,000; a great DCC system for $1,000; and have $5,000 left over for the layout. &nb
That’s true for us hobbyist but,the manufacturers will add the cost I mention that’s why a old $4.98 BB car kit now RTR cost around $25.00 with metal wheels and crappy couplers.
We built the same car from the kit for around $6.00 with KDs and metal wheels.
I’m happy with Accurail. Having to upgrade the couplers and wheel sets has been pretty routine for most of the rolling stock I have purchased, and I actually enjoy doing the work. They are certainly an improvement over the Athearn BB kits of which I have purchased many.
The only expensive RTR rolling stock that I have ever purchased are three True Line Trains slab sided hoppers with Canadian Pacific markings. I managed to get them on eBay for slightly less than retail including shipping. I love them but I still feel guilty every time I look at them! [(-D][(-D] I can’t bring myself to buy any more (can you hear the birdies - cheap, cheap, cheap?!)
Interestingly, I don’t mind spending a bit when it comes to kit bashing. As some of you are aware I just finished upgrading a fleet of BB cabooses. When I add up all the details like working marker lights, wire for new grab irons, screen doors and windows, window glazing, wheel wipers, metal wheels, new trucks for most, the constant lighting circuit bits, paint etc. etc., I could have probably bought True Lines cabooses for close to the same money. That wouldn’t have been nearly as much fun though, would it?
Some where I have a carton of Accurail freight cars. I’ll have to dig them out and do them up.
Misunderstanding - to add them yourself while building the kit is what I was talking about. Did not sound like you meant the cost of just putting the better stuff in to begin with.
Though Branchline kits at $16 always had metal wheels and Kadees.
Between all the impatient people demanding RTR, and the fact that it’s a total win for the manufacturer - assuming the kit costs the same, they can pay a couple of dollars per kit for assembly in the Chinese factory and then charge 3x the kit price because it’s “RTR” And never have to deal with a customer needing replacement peices for something they broke or lost during assembly. It’s almost bad business to NOT do this.
As part of adding a new piece of rolling stock, they all get wheels and couplers replaced, unless they come with metal wheels and Kadee couplers. Ever since the patent that Kadee held expired and knockoffs became the new “standard”, MOST of them prove unreliable. Especially the ones that have the little “whisker” used to keep the coupler closed. Give me that little spring anyday. And, Kadee keeps improving them; i.e. the “Whisker” coupler. No more dealing with that centering spring.
Yes, the Kadee ‘Whisker’ couple is the greatest thing since sliced bread especially where Athearn coupler boxes are concerned. One less piece to try and manage all at the same time to get them in place.
Note that you mentioned whiskers twice - might confuse some. The BAD whiskers are the ones on the outside of the coupler, to push the knuckle - Kadees have a little METAL coil spring there. The knockoff often have a plastic whisker to push the knuckle closed - about as effective and long lasting as the plastic ‘spring’ in the X2f coupler (that’s sarcasm, folks). The Kadee Whisker couples have a METAL whisker spring to center the coupler - inside the box. This replaces the bronze pan spring unit that the classic #5 used.
