I have made up a very nice control panel in Word, and printed it out (laser printer) on 20# paper. Normally I would glue it on top of some 1/8" MDF with Scotch 77 spray adheasive.
BUT . . . the club is asking if I can put it BEHIND some CLEAR acrylic, to protect the paper from spilled drinks, and while in storage (portable layout). I’m afraid the 77 will fog the plastic, or not be clear enough to see thru. Any suggestions on a good adheasive? I rather not go the ChartPak tape route.
Phil
How about framing it, like a picture. Simple frame, acrylic cover, control panel printout, masonite or some such secured to the back holding it in place. If it needs to be held in place on the layout, make the frame wide enouth to put a screw each side.
Just a thought.
Good luck,
Richard
Frame it, or mount the controls through it - look at the “old stuff” section on my website, I made panels in a similar fashion, with 2 pieces of plexiglas and a pritned diagram on the heaviest cardstock my color printer would accept. The hole thing is held together by the mounting nuts on the toggle switches. Having mounting screws on all 4 corners would also hold it together. You can still use the spray adhesive to glue the paper to the backing piece, although I didn’t do this. I taped it in place (actually, I printed out a b&w copy and used that) to drill teh holes, then I put the real one in place when assembling it.
–Randy
Take it to a print shop and have it laminated, then framed.
I thought about the sandwich, but was afraid the 2 layers would be too thick for the mounting stem of the mini Radio Shack switches. I’ll give it another look though. The whole thing will eventually be in a 1x2 frame to protect the wires and provide removeable mounting.
Phil
Skip the acrylic and go with polycarbonate (lexan) It’s easier to drill (acrylic has a tendency to crack when drilling it) and protects just as well.
I would simply place your diagram between two pieces of 1/8" polycarbonate (total of 1/4" thick. You don’t need to use adhesive to hold them together. Get some nice chrome plated screws and it will look professional.
Here is what i have done. I found the polycarbonate at Lowe’s. it came in 8"x10’ pieces ( I think it was the cutoff from larger pieces that they had cut in the store) it was about $25 for 6 or so pieces. I can get 3 panels from 2 pieces (my panels are 3"x8").
Here are the latest ones that I have installed on the layout.
Here is a double size panel (6"x8")
!(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h305/Renegade1c/website photos/CIMG3533.jpg)
I hope this info helps!
I used the method described by Randy with an acrylic “sandwich” and have been very satisfied with three panels in use. I designed and printed the panel diagram on my ink jet printer, and then placed a 1st paper copy between the two acrylic sheets. I drilled holes for the switches and led lights ( encased in available led collars). You do have to be careful in drilling holes… start with small bit and slowly increase the size until hole is proper fit. (Otherwise, the acrylic can split or fragment). I drilled holes in four corners and used screws, fancy washers, and nuts to hold the sandwich. After drilling, I replaced the diagram with a clean copy, and assembled. I didn’t have trouble with the switch shaft lengths not allowing room for a holding nut. The result is very clean and professional looking. I can see the advantage of using polycarbonate as well.
Have fun paneling… Hal
I use Lexan instead of acrylic.
I spray 3M 77 Spray Adhesive on the Lexan and apply the track diagram face down on the Lexan. There is no clouding or fogging.
I prepare the track diagram on PowerPoint. Once the adhesive dries, I drill small holes through the Lexan and the diagram for the DPDT switches, then use a reamer to carve out the required 1/4" opening. I use the reamer because the Lexan will crack as the drill bits increase in size.
Rich
I guess I misunderstood you, I have a schematic hung behind my control panel to explain what switches control what. For my actual control panel, I used a piece of masonite.
I’m sure you could do the same thing with acrylic sheet. If you want to protect it, apply the tape to the underside, then paint the underside a contrasting color. Apply a clear coat to that to protect it from being scratched from underneath.
Mine were two pieces of 1/8" thick material, making the entire sandwich slightly more than 1/4" thick, which most any switch (and even the palstic LED bezels I used) will mount to. I only ever had them temporarily mounted by the top corners because I never got to the point of adding a fascia, but it was suprisngly stiff. Frame the edges to hide them and it will be PLENTY stiff.
Definitely invest in the reamer. I didn’t. On the first panel I got through all the holes and got a crack on the VERY LAST one. Luckily it was in the rear sheet so the crack was hidden by the paper template but that would have been bad to have it almsot all done and ruin in. If I make more panels that way again, I will be hitting up the hardware store for a reamer first. A drill press would be nice but I managed ok using a 2x4 to back up the area I was drilling and using my cordless drill.
–Randy
–Randy
I do my panels a bit differently - I use clear lexan or plexiglas, And print the track diagram in reverse on paper. I tape the paper - print side down - to what will be the front side of the panel, and working on the back side, I lay 1/8 inch masking or pinstripe tape to the back. I use decals for lettering (white) applied so that they’ll be readable from the front. I make all block boundary breaks (I’m DC)with a knife, and when everything is set, I paint the entire back of the panel black When that’s pretty dry, I lift the tape and paint the back white (we’re talking rattle-can here, nothing fancy) when all dry, I drill for the switches, lights, or whatever.
One thing: To avoid splitting or cracking the acrylic, make sure the area where you are drilling is completely supported. I just use an old piece of 1x4, but use whatever you like, as long at there is no room for the acrylic to flex while drilling.
Here’s a picture:
Here’s my own panel:
!(http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.com/images/Photos/Model Construction Photos/Progress Photos/2007/07-12-02 Control Panel.jpg)
I created the graphic on my computer, then sandwiched it in between two thin sheets of lexan I bought at Lowes. The frame is just 2X10 framing lumber with a groove cut around for the panel to slip into. The back section of the frame is removable to allow the panel to be inserted and removed.
There is no glue anywhere - graphic to lexan, frame edges to each other, or anywhere else.
Just another method to consider: I used some clear laminating film applied over the printed diagram which was glued to a sheet of .080 aluminum. In the photo the gray background is a sheet of viny covering the aluminum,l with my artwork applied on top of that. The vinyl is what sign shops use to make vinyl signs and is adhesive backed. I did this rather than paint because it was available to me. The end results are the same and the printed diagrams are protected from damage.
Bob
Thanks guys. I’m headed to the (Home) Depot tomorrow and will try the 77 on the back side. The guys are meeting on Sunday and I hope they like it.
Phil
The 77 adhesive worked great. Showed it to the guys on Sunday, and they were impressed. Now I get to drill the holes, then the electrician will take over.
Phil
Phil,
Congrats.
Remember now, drill small pilot holes, then finish each hole with a reamer.
I always ream out 1/4" diameter holes to hold DPDT switches. I wrap a thin strip of masking tape around the reamer at the 1/4" location so I know when to stop reaming.
Rich
P.S. Show us some pics.