Is there a special technique to using acrylic paints effectively? Last time I used them on a model it was all streaked and grooved. Or is it as simple as I need to use a better brush?
Acela
(I should note that I am not using them for weathering, just to repaint a model)
It sounds like your paint was either too old, too thick, or both. Once acrylics are opened and the air hits the paint, the paint starts to dry out and get hard. Not much you can do about it, its just the nature of acrylic paint.
One thing you can do is keep the bottle closed as much as you can. When i am brush painting, once I get some paint on the brush, I set the paint cap back on the bottle up-side-down to try and keep most of the air out. I move the cap when I need more paint, but put it back in place. Does it help? I would like to think so.
I read a MR article one time that said that you should first wet the brush before putting it in the paint. I haven’t tried it, but it may help you.
Also, painting a large area with a small brush won’t work either.
The type of brush will affect how it turns out too. The better the brush, the better the paint job, usually.
Acela026:
There are all kinds of instructions on how to use acrylic paints; for me it is the right brush, good ones, and the consistency of the paint and make sure it is well mixed and stirred.
I like the paint to flow on without a lot of strokes. Many will try and cover something with one coat, it may not work that way. Certain colors, red and yellow, as well as white may take an extra coat. The paint may need to be thinned with a little water and it needs to flow. Mixing is most important either an electric stirrer or shake it really well then stir. Paint in one direction the best you can.
Let it dry really well before the next coat. Again, don’t forget, good brushes, the ones that come in a Testors paint box not so good. Hobby Lobby and Wal-Mart sell good quality brushes.
The passenger cars all hand painted with acrylics, as well as the car and some of the figures.
These are real aluminum coaches that i hand painted with acrylics, two coats, same for some of the buildings in the back ground.
This station has been seen several times, it is hand painted with acrylics to look like wood.
So it is the paint, stirred well and mixed; thinned just right if neccessary, and good brushes and stroke in one direction and allow the paint to dry really well before the next coat.
Robert Sylvester, WTRR
Very good advece but…
Why hasn’t someone stated the obvious. Clean before painting. Acrylics are not as forgiving as solvent based paint/
Well, yes, it’s always a good idea to clean before you paint. But this usually causes peeling and non-adhesion, not streaks.
A good brush is definitely a must. Go to an art supply store and buy some good ones. I prefer sable or taklon. Expect to pay about $5 a brush, and then take care of it. Buy some brush cleaner and conditioner and use it religiously.
Yes, you should wet the brush before painting. Acrylics are water-based, and a dry brush will absorb water from the paint, making it thicker. Keep the brush wet as you paint.
Make sure the paint is thin enough. Use the commercial paint thinner manufactured for your brand of paint. Yeah, it costs more than rubbing alcohol, but for thinning a paint in it’s original container, that’s what you wnat to use. Mix paint thoroughly and test the viscosity by watching the paint drip off the end of your stirrer. If it doesn’t run freely, thin the paint. Also, make sure you use enough paint on the brush. It should flow off of the brush onto your model, and the streaks should fill in by themselves. Don’t over-brush it.
I stopped having issues with acrylic paints once I invested in an airbrush. I can get much better results than by hand brush or even rattle can. No brush streaks, and rattle cans tend to cover details. And I know it’s against male nature, but reading the directions really DOES help. [swg]
Hi!
In the past (since the '50s) I’ve only used oil based paints like Testors or ModelMasters for brushing plastic/metal models. For airbrushing, I prefer Floquil or Badgers.
In the last several months I’ve been on a building binge for the new layout, and tried some of the Polly S acrylics. They were great, especially for large areas. But, like with oil based paints, there are some pointers I would like to pass along…
Mixing the paint is a must, and easily the best tool for that is the $10 Badger paint mixer. When it first came out I scoffed at it, but after I bought one I have found it to be better than I imagined.
I was fortunate to inherit a collection of artist paint brushes - all types and sizes - and realized that they all have a purpose. I would suggest reading up on the different types and materials, and figure out what works for you. And, like any tool, buy the best you can afford (for they might well outlast you).
I suggest that both acrylics and oil based paints have their place in painting models, and can both be used on the same one. In example, wide areas can be effectively painted with acrylics, but oil based paints tend to work better on details.
While there are hundreds of colors out there to choose from, don’t hesitate to mix your own. Some of my best results came from custom mixed colors - be it oil or acrylic.
I have found that a second coat is often warranted, more so with acrylics as they tend to go on thinner.
ENJOY !!!
I use a decent, but not great, brush. I expect to put on 2 or even 3 coats to cover evenly. And, if I want a smooth surface, I will spray it with gloss or satin finish. For a rough surface, Dul-Coat will give a more even look than just painting.
Thanks, guys!
Just finished painting a model and it looks fantastic! Look for it in this weeks Weekend Photo Fun thread…
Acela