I’ve read earlier posts on this question with interest. It seems that because of warping issues solvent paints would be preferable to acrylics if it weren’t for the health, reasons, the stinking up the house problem, and the cleanup. But those are serious problems for me, so I’m all set to try acrylics.
My question has to do with sealing, before or after painting. A number of people have suggested using lacquer or Testor’s Dullcote. And my question is, aren’t both of these both stinky and (possibly) just as dangerous? Is there anything that works to seal the paint that is also acrylic?
Alternatively, can one skip the sealing step and simply (a) spray drier than normal (b) paint both sides and (c) brace with stripwood? Not stinking up the house (and not breathing the stuff) is a real priority if I’m going to make any progress.
I’m happy to experiment, but I can’t get to it for the moment anyway, so I’d see if you guys had any useful advice. I don’t suppose the MR video on spraying acrylics is out on DVD?
I am far from an expert at this but have made now about a dozen wooden kits and have only used acrylic paints. I test fit everything and sand as needed and then like to paint before assembly.
I have brush painted acrylic onto plain wood and watched in horror as the part warped. Painting all sides reduces this significantly. Any bits that are warped go under a pile of telphone directories overnight once they are dry. Add a bit of bracing and I have never had a problem. This is the most environmentally friendly way but does add some time to the project.
I have also used inexpensive spray can primer coats prior to painting. I have a ventilated spray area in my garage that I use for this. This step elliminates the warping almost entirely but of course may not fit your situation.
Future " floor wax" not a wax at all but clear acrylic works very well as a wood sealer and is not stinky or harmful. It can be sprayed or brushed. There is a website called “the complete Future” or something like that. Sorry I do not have the url.
I bought a pre-assembled, unpainted wood building in N scale. Since I paint all of my railroad-related structures standard PRR two-tone brown, I use a standard Polly-Scale acrylic paints. Since this structure was wood, I sprayed it outside with two coats of Testor’s Dullcote, and then painted it with Poly-Scale.
The wood building is the passenger shelter on the right. No warpage, since I sealed it with Dullcote.
Dave, did you brush paint that shelter, or use an airbrush? How did you find the paint adhered to the Dullcote? It looks pretty nice from this vantage point.
I’ve had success painting any subassemblies (i.e. stairs, etc.) then waiting to paint everything when the building was glued together. Sometimes this is a little more tedious to paint but I don’t have the problems with warping. I also hand paint my structures with a brush.
Funny this should come up. Just last night my son and I watched Plan ,till you Scream and then Build, vol II, (Dream, Plan, Build), and they had on their how to segment advice on this very subject.
They say to spray both sides of each piece with sealant to prevent warpage. I usualky hand paint each piece with acrylics before I build anyway, so I’vbe not had the problem. However, I did have warpage on a model with card-stock once.
Thanks for all the help, guys, and meanwhile an interim report, for whatever it’s worth.
I liked the idea of using Future: anything that’s non toxic and readily available seems an exciting addition to the arsenal. The sell it at my local Home Depot, which is handy.
I duly brushed it on to both sides of a laser kit. The bad news (I guess) is that it caused some fairly dramatic warping. The good news is that I just place the sheets of wood between two panes of glass and they came out a day later dry and flat.
I then brush painted the insides with acrylics. Again the sides warped, and again the glass solved the problem; this time I’ve left them for a week.
So I guess I can live with this; I’ll brace the walls with stripwood, and hope for the best. My big question is whether that will be enough sealing for so that it doesn’t absorb more moisture. Or should I apply Dullcote (or Future) after the sides are painted on both sides?
Another question is whether it’s worth it. I found myself itching to spray acrylics, but on plastic models instead.
