Adapter board for Lifelike Proto 1000 decoder install or missing Proto 2000 connector board

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362971320026?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818143230%26meid%3D2d22ae4bcc5c42b3918b9342992cda60%26pid%3D101224%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D203040958375%26itm%3D362971320026%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c101224.m-1

You’d think these were readily available over here in North America but nobody makes nor supplies one.

ESU makes one with wires attached but they stick up vertically if you try to connect to say a TCS LL8.

This design seems the same as the factory Proto 2000 connector which is a neat and tidy way to fit a decoder in.

Another thread somewhere asked about these but I can’t easily find that thread to add this to.

I just sent a handful of these to another contributor here.

I might be able to find a few more if interested.

Regards, Ed

I could use up to 8 easily.

I’ll take a look later. The cat may have eaten a few. Being a model railroader I’don’t throw much away:

DCC_PCBb by Edmund, on Flickr

Regards, Ed

My GP7 LL Proto 2000 did not have an 8 pin socket.

Yes, that’s an older version which uses a board similar to a Proto 1000. Note the X markings on the printed circuit marking the cut points to make when you solder a decoder to the solder pads conveniently provided. That was apparently DCC ready back in the day!

That’s also a GP9 board, just btw. But who can tell the difference between a GP7 and a GP9 anyway, apparently not even Lifelike…

I have one of the Proto 1000 RDC3 and 8 Proto 1000 C Liners with similar boards. I’m not trying to put sound in any of those because you really should mill the frame. It’s possible to fit a speaker in without milling but not easy. TCS says a kit is coming but they’ve said that for a while now.

The Dayliner growls quite nicely anyway. I have the NWSL speed increase gearset for that which will be my first real project locomotive because a little cutting or milling of the frame is required. I think I can cut it straight enough rather than try my first milling work but we’ll see. Maybe my LHS guy will mill it for me if I mark it.

The Spectrum Shay kind of was my first real project but in the end I asked a guy at the LHS to press the hub drive gears onto the truck drive shafts for me so not really my work. Disassembling and reassembling isn’t much of a project any longer for me, that’s now just routine servicing.

I’m looking to adapt the Proto 1000 locomotives to TCS LL8 motor only decoders. I’d take out the lightboard completely because TCS includes all light functions including voltage step down on the decoder. It would just be easier and tidier to solder in (or in the case of the Proto 2000 adapter mini board just clip on) the locomotive end of the wiring to an adapter board. I’ve installed two TCS LL8 into one Proto 2000 GP7 and one GP9, later series than yours, and they are very good performers.

It’s the same amount of soldering, I’m not risking my ham fisted technique on the actual decoder

A Decoder Buddy and a 21 pin decoder may be a better choice.

https://nicknixtrainz.com/

Good Luck, Ed

Thanks, yes, I thought so too but I bought those and now I’m not so sure. For motor only decoder and one light (max) I think an adapter socket is the simpler solution. Cheaper also.

I found four:

L-L_NMRA-socket by Edmund, on Flickr

I’ll send them to you if you’d like. Is there a U.S. address you can use? Last time I mailed something to Canada the package wound up in Sydney, Australia where it went on holiday for about two months.

Cheers, Ed

I can send you a Canadian address that will work. I have a sister in the Bay Area but that doesn’t improve the fundamental risk of Mail going astray between our countries.

Send me an email at:

cms.pangolin@gmail.com

A pangolin is a relatively rare ant eater, it’s defence mechanism is to roll into a ball and expose razor sharp scales to anyone attacking it…