I’m looking for suggestions on how to add some very fine chrome details to an HO kitbash. I’m converting an Athearn launch, the kind that they used to offer as flat car loads, to a ‘Rum Runner’ style of speed boat. Those boats had lots of chrome details like the cleats, exhaust pipes, bow protectors, navigation lights, bilge vents, windshield supports, etc., etc. I don’t think silver paint will do it justice when it comes to modeling the chrome. (Ya - I’m going way overboard on this project - pardon the pun!)
So, what are my alternatives?
I have seen Alclad II used very effectively on passenger cars but I’m wondering how well it will work on tiny details. I have a bottle of Microscale’s Micro Mask which might be one way to control the paint when using the Alclad II. Any opinions on that? Can the Alclad II be applied with a brush?
I have also seen chrome foil used on things like 1/24 model cars including details like windshield trim. Does anyone have any experience with that stuff? My feeling is that it would be difficult to apply to some of the very tiny details like the davets.
Again, this is an insane level of detail for a flat car load, but I always wanted to own a mahogany boat with all the bright chrome bits. This is likely my only chance.[swg][(-D]
Degrease/clean your detail items with 71% alcohol, Windex, or a wax and grease remover. Check for surface smoothness as Alclad’s high sheen tends to make surface imperfections stand out.
Paint those items to a high-gloss black finish (Scale Coat 2 works very well). Allow to cure. Apply 1 to 2 very light coats of Alclad 107, and your done!
Alclad2 high shine finishes are designed for airbrush use only and you’ll get poor results if you attempt to paint brush it.
The foil method can also achieve some very nice results, however imho, the Alclad2 route is much easier, faster and involves less “fuss”.
For tiny parts, like You describe…You can also try Model Master Enamel, Chrome Trim, used with a tiny brush. I use it a lot on my model trucks to represent Chrome. It actually looks pretty good on small details without overpowering the other painted parts and that is what I try to achieve. One of the tricks I found to using it…try to use just one stroke, when applying it and it will shine really nice.
In the 50’s I built a wood Cabin Cruiser kit, Mahogany and basswood…did not have any chrome on it though…used brass parts. It was a 28’’ long Chriscraft…no pic’s though, shame.
This is a dark pic’, but the grilles on these two trucks was painted with it:
I was hoping you would chime in. Please have a look at the picture to see if you think I can make the Alclad II work on the details. By the way, I thought about chroming the whole boat and then applying the colour coats over top, but I think the details would be even harder to mask doing it that way.
I should have posted pictures of what I am working with in the original post. Here is the launch showing the detail parts that need to be chromed. Basically, its everything that sticks up above the deck, plus a strip down the bow and the exhaust pipes, and possibly some stripes at the edge of the deck if I can get them straight.
Keep in mind this is HO. The boat is only 4 1/2" long.
What do you think? Can I make this work?
While I’m at it I’ll ask the forum members a couple of other questions :
1st - Has anyone used Microscale’s Micro Mask?
2nd - Any suggestions for how to recreate the mahogany appearance? I had hoped that the current colour would be close but I’m not happy with it. It does match the typical anti-fouling paint used below the water line so I will keep it on the bottom of the hull. I’ve thought of using a more yellow tone as a base for the mahogany and then dry brushing on something like boxcar red. The exposed mahogany part of the hull will be gloss coated.
Frank:
I wasn’t aware of the Model Master Enamel Chrome Trim. If the Alclad doesn’t work that might be my fall back method.
You may also want to take a look at…Testor’s ‘‘CreateFX’’ Enamel stain. I have the brown and it is like a translucent paint that can go over the color of Your choice. I have used it on buildings so far with really good results. Don’t know of all the colors though, just found out about it myself, not too long ago. It even has a ball in the bottle container, when you shake it to keep the pigment from settling.
The Testors CreateFX is really interesting. I’m thinking it might work better than regular opaque paint for dry brushing over a yellow or beige base to create the grain effect for mahogany. I’m also thinking that I could use it to highlight the spaces between the deck boards. Often that was done in white. Vewwy intewwesting!
Apparently getting the desired appearance is not as difficult as finding a retailer who carries the stuff in Canada. I have been searching for Alclad II dealers in Canada with little success. One hobby store said they carried it but were out of stock. I’m waiting for answers from a few other shops. I just did a quick search for Testors CreateFX and couldn’t find it in stock either. I’ll keep trying. I can’t order from south of the border due to shipping restrictions.
This tiny little boat is becoming an obsession but if I can get the appearance I’m trying for it will be a neat little eye catcher. To heck with the cost![swg][(-D]
Me Too! I have always been that way. More so for the past 15yrs of being retired…no kids, no wife…just My Boxer and He don’t talk back…least not in My language. [(-D] [(-D] Forgot the eight Grandkids…but the’re cool. Plus they go back home.
That’s a good looking classic launch! There are a number of prototypes that have been restored to almost new condition. You received good workable suggestions from fellow modelers. Imho, you can use the Alclad method on your details, however, chroming the entire vessel would be overkill. You’d have to seal the Alcladded items with clear before masking them to re-paint the rest of the vessel. Below are Canadian businesses that are listed as Alclad product retailers, although I don’t know if Alclad’s owner has updated it lately:
The chrome trim is so small, I feel that the paint suggested would be better than attempting to gain an actual “bright” finish. It is more important on that model to represent the most outstanding feature which is the mahogony deck, and other items. Experimentation w/ base colors and thinned red/ brown streaked washes similar to the old antiquing kits. These decks when new looked like fine mahogony furniture.
Thanks for the list of Canadian dealers. I had seen it on the Alclad website. Unfortunately a lot of the links don’t go directly to the hobby shops’ websites. I did manage to find Alclad II chrome for plastics as well as the black base coat at Modelers Choice in Hamilton.
Getting the deck and upper hull to look like mahogany will be a challenge. I had originally tried to use wood veneer by itself but it wasn’t very cooperative. I then thought of gluing the veneer over top of the styrene hull and deck but getting it to conform to the curves was impossible. I didn’t try cutting it into individual planks which would be the only way to make it fit properly. I figured it would be too tiny for me to apply neatly.
My next experiment will be to start with a yellow base and see what I can do with dry brushing something like boxcar red over top. If that doesn’t work, I’ll try to find the CreateFX that Frank talked about.
Dave, I can see that attempting to gain that true mahogony look in scale could be rather challenging. experinenting w/ the right flat base of reddish/ tope color w/ varnish stains as Polyshade may be as close as you could get. The graining will depend on the proper pick of brush and thinning of the Polyshade finish. I work w/ furniture/ cabinet finishes, but on a 1:1 scale. many times I have found a finish that may work.
A couple more prototype photos just for fun (I’m sure you’ve already looked at thousands). Not exactly the same style of boat, but similar. I did a family portrait session centered around their boat, and the chrome details pop in these photos so I figured I would share them.
What a beautiful work of art! I’d love to see the engines. They must be enormous given that the cockpit is so far back. Love the rumble seat. Great shot for matching the colour.
Yes, I’ve looked at quite a few pictures of mahogany boats and every one of them gave me pleasure. Even the unrestored ones with rotting wood are interesting, especially knowing that somebody is going to put them back together again.
You asked about Microscale’s Magic Mask. I had a Rivarossi, Dreyfuss Hudson that needed repainting. The graphics were OK so I taped off the tender lettering. The problem was the NYC logo on the pilot. I took my unused bottle of Magic Mask and painted over the logo with a medium coat. Let that dry for a day and then painted the engine with Floquil. With in a half hour I took the tip of a knife blade and the Magic Mask came off in one nice piece with no paint bleed under it. Hope this helps.
Thanks for sharing your experience with Microscale’s Micro Mask. I’ve got the Alclad chrome paint and black base on order and I think I have figured out how to get the mahogany look.
