I have HO gauge Peco turnouts already installed on my layout, unfortunately I’m having 2nd thoughts about using them all manually. My question is what would be the best machine to use? BTW they all have the springs [which I’ve been told can’t be removed once the turnouts are installed.
I’d say the Peco machines are your best bet - they’re simple 2-coil solenoid ones that last for years. You can either fit them directly to the underside of the switch (requires cutting a sizable hole in the board) or use the extended pin version which allows you to mount them to the underside of the board (and only needs a slot cut for the pin to move in). The spring isn’t a problem for these machines as they’re designed to handle it. Hope this is of help!
.Wilist,
You have a bit of a problem here if you want to mount the machine under the table without removing the switch. It will be impossible to mount the Peco machine to the bottom of the switch without removing it. It will also be difficult to drill a hole under the throwbar to install a wire from a tortise without removing the switch. Your options without taking up the switch include the use of the Switchmaster motor which uses a wire crank assembly that is mounted from a hole you drill in the ties next to the throwbar and of course using the Peco machine next to the switch on the table (not too scenic). How many switches are we talkiing about??? Taking them up might be easier than trying to jury rig something. Powering/throwing switches should always be prepared for in advance of installation…See the thread on layouts (MR) forum on undertable machines.
Here is a link explaining how the switchmaster works:
Putting a slot under the installed switch shouldn’t be that hard. Have you ever seen a rotozip tool? It uses a special bit that not only plunges like a drill bit, but also hogs material out side to side like a router bit. Dremel sells these bits for their roto tools.
Should open enough of a slot to install a Peco machine.
I have a problem with the switch machine for the Pecos. What is everyone using to power the Peco machine. I am using a snapper connected to my power pack accessory terminals and all the machines does is just buzz
Help! Mike Dickinson
you can cut the spring once they are installed. just be very carefull. you only need one spring and the point motors have one built in to their plastic base unit.
peco point motors are also a lot easier to wire up!
Peter
Mike - I had the same problem. I installed a capacitive discharge circuit for all my twin-coil switch machines, and now they all work better. These are simple circuits that store energy from the power pack in a big capacitor, and then release it all at once when you hit the button to throw a switch machine. This gives the machine more of a jolt. Also, the current then “decays” quickly as the capacitor discharges, which protects the switch machine if the button sticks, or you hold it down too long.
The CD circuit first converts the AC from the power pack to DC. The twin-coil machines will work fine on either, but I also use some cheap DC-only relays to control signal lighting and frog power, and the CD circuit makes those work well, too.
You can buy one of these things from several different suppliers, but if you can handle a soldering iron, it’s a simple circuit to build with a few dollars in parts from Radio Shack.
If the switch is already installed then you can sometimes use an adaptor that Peco sells for it’s machine which mounts the machine to the side. You just then need to cover the machine with a building.
Having used this adapter though I will not in future go down the path of using Peco switch machines - i’d rather use a tortoise. In fact I’m about to side mount a couple of tortoise switch machines where I was using Peco ones. (I don’t have clearance under in this case). This is on a N scale layout with Peco switches. On HO I’d rather hand lay track than use Peco - I get a far more reliable switch.
Tim