I will be adhering the Walthers stock yard to my layout sometime in the next few days. It will be attached directly onto pink foam. Anyone have any ideas about what adhesive to use? It needs to be foam friendly and minimal clamping pressure. There is no way I can use adhesive caulk (my first choice) because the bricks that I would use to apply the pressure would crush the structure.
Thanks.
Geeez, you preparing it for a Hurricane?
What I do with my structures, was use some drywall screws on the corners, and then hide them with ground cover. I have the pink foam too.
Some of my structures though, I just place them with nothing attaching them.
Aileen’s Tacky Glue, available from craft stores, is perfect for this. It won’t attack anything, adheres to most everything, but can be easily removed and scraped off if necessary. It goes on white and dries clear in a short time.
Why do you need to secure it with a brick? Why do you need to fasten it down?
Whatever you use to hold the ground cover around it should do the job.
All my buildings and other structures are not going to be adhered to the foam. But this one has to be because the bottom is a little warped.
Woodland Scenics Foam Tack Glue will do the trick.
Rich
Wow, the WS Tacky Glue is $12.99 for 12 ounces, and Aileen’s is $2.99 for 8 ounces. I didn’t expect the price difference to be so large.
We attached one of these to my buddy’s layout with acrylic/latex sealant. It holds well, but can be removed easily if needed later.
From your response, it seems that your biggest trouble is that the base and subsequently the structure itself is warped. Can it be flexed/ twisted and the glue joints hold? If so you may be able to soak in hot water while occasionally removing and over flexing. Even weighting down while plastics cools as you over strees by shimming may work. If there is any part of the base that extends beyond the structure, you could use the screw method as described to flatten and install. Is it possible to mount on a tempered hardboard and still disguise the 1/8" hardboard base w/ scenery materials? If so you will be able to use a more aggressive and faster setting glue, (hot glue, contact cement or Pliobond)
Hi,
Do you really have to glue a structure of that size to the base? I find that structures of size sit quite well by themselves (there are a few exceptions). I too have that stockyard, and painted the bass and surrounding area with a white glue mix and then sprinkled on ground foam - mostly browns in the corrals and brown with some greens in the surrounding area. This totally covers the meeting of the base with the benchwork and blends right in.
The good news is that it can easily be moved without damage.
Bob makes a good point about putting the whole thing on a layer of hardboard. When you get down to installing this, you’ll discover that the base should be at track level. If you’ve elevated your track on roadbed, as most of us have, the track will be too high unless you add a quarter inch or so of material below the stock yard.
I use either plain white glue or Aileen’s Tack Glue to hold my structures in place. A bead around the edges of the base, then set in place. Should I ever need to remove it, a soaking with water will loosen it up. Any gaps are hidden with ground foam.
Thanks for the ideas. There is a very slight flex/warp in the base of one of the pens which, if glued down, will straighten everything out, otherwise the hardboard idea was goingto be tried. And, I double checked before I laid the tracks and the track is a ground level. I did not lay it on WS foam roadbed that I was using.