Adventures in Paint Stripping (Kato)

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

It seems like questions about paint stripping come up every two or three weeks, along with numerous suggestions of things to use. Since I had a couple Kato shells to strip, I thought I’d try a more scientific approach. What follows is based on what I observed.

I had two shells to strip, a Kato SD40 in CSX YN2 colors and an SD45 ATSF yellow bonnet. The SD40 is destined to become a Conrail unit that I photographed on an SP freight in 1993. The SD45 is going to become an ATSF SD45B.

Scalecoat Paint Remover

Since I thought I’d used this in the past on Kato, I tried this first. Thankfully I only threw the SD40 cab and sub-base into the fluid to test it out. It did remove the paint, but it also etched into the plastic, eroding small details and leaving channels that looked like melted scratches. The parts were ruined and went in the trash.

It may be possible to use this stuff on Kato, but you need to work very quickly and it’s risky. By contrast, I used Scalecoat paint remover on a P2K GP38-2 and had ALL the paint off in 20 minutes with no ill effects whatsoever. This is good stuff, just not for Kato.

Thankfully with the availablilty of Cannon parts, plus the fact that my SD45 is going to be a B unit and therefore could donate its cab to the SD40, I wasn’t too worried about losing the cab for the SD40. The long hood is another story, though, so after this I became more cautious.

Brake Fluid

I soaked the SD40 shell in this stuff for several hours. It did absolutely nothing.

Castrol Super Clean

No effect beyond a slight dulling of the paint surface and some whitish residue.

Pine Sol (real Pine Sol, not brand-x imitation)

No effect, and the smell will roast your nostrils. I have to confess I cut the soaking of the SD40 shell short because I couldn’t stand the smell. It could be that this will do something if the shell remains sumberged for

2

Good info, this pretty much confirms what I have always heard about the Kato shells. I have a question. During the course of all of your chemical stripping if you noticed which one of the products, if any, removed the lettering and road numbers without damaging the underlying paint?

Jim

3

Great information. I have lots of painting to do in the future (n-scale shells). This is probably a dumb question but why strip? I suspect so that you don’t get build up and cover some of the detail but it seems if you get thin coats you would be OK. I have no model painting experience as you can tell.
Thanks for the info.
Peter

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Dacort,

A hearty thanks to you for your feedback! That’s what makes this forum so valueable.[:)]

I’ve been using 91% alcohol for 3 years now and have had mediocre to very good sucesses on different shells. I’ve been hesitant about buying ELO, due to reports of it working very slowly. I realize that fast chemical reactions on plastic are not always ideal, but I prefer something that penetrates and loosens paint as soon as contact is made.

I have a couple of P2K E units that need stripping. Since my LHS stocks it, I’m willing to try the Scale Coat stripper.

Is this a “brush it on” or “soak in a pan” product?

5

Has anyone tried Easy Off oven cleaner on Kato shells? I’ve used it (along with Castrol Super Clean) to strip paint off old 1/25 model cars for years…but as seeing a new Kato E8A shell is $25, I’m a bit reluctant to do that.

6

Here is the Kato company line on the subject
from the kato website

How can I strip the paint off of one of your models?

[quote]
QUOTE: First of all, we would strongly encourage you NOT to do it!
Undecorated models are generally included in every model production for this purpose. If your local or regular dealer does not have any undec models, get on the phone and begin to call around. (Please see related FAQ of “where to look.”) If an undecorated model is not obtainable, please consider the separate purchase of an undecorated bodyshell, either through your local dealer or from KATO Parts Direct. Both of these avenues will allow you to paint a model in your home road without the task of stripping the factory-applied colors and markings.

Some hobbyists, however, may say the above comments do not address the question, and they may, for whatever reasons, still want to undertake this paint stripping project. If so, we can NOT make a recommendation of a specific material or process to remove the “paint” from our shell. While we have heard of some hobbyists having great success with a particular fluid or method, we have also heard stories of disastrous results for other modelers using the same product or process!

Please understand that the critical factor here, and one over which we have absolutely no control or influence, is “the human factor.” Exactly how long was the shell immersed in the stripping solution? What was the exact concentration or dilution of the solution? Was the model shell fully cleaned before being immersed? Are you immersing one shell at a time or more than one? Was the solution container clean and free of contaminants? Do you wear rubber gloves or work with bare hands? These are only a few of the questions that only the individual modeler has control over, and any of them or combination of them can greatly effect the outcome of the procedure. A blind recommendation by us of how to start with so many uncontrollable variables would not be in

7

I’m glad someone else found this helpful.

The best thing I’ve tried so far is the sandblaster, you just have to be careful not to use it for too long. The trouble is that often you still see the numbers in a kind of 3D relief even after the color is gone. The ink or whatever they use must soak into the paint a little.

Kato is also difficult because the paints and markings are not all applied with the same thickness. Some spots come clean faster than others.

Supposedly you can use ELO for this, according to the side of the can, and it works slowly enough that it’s probably not too much of a risk, but I haven’t tried it. I have tried Scalecoat paint remover for this, but you have to be quick (and the results aren’t always perfect).

I’ve tried the rubber eraser method, too, but I ended up rubbing right through the paint anyway, and I could still see faint impressions of the numbers.

Basically you’ve got it, so that you don’t get a thick mass of paint that obscures detail. On my ATSF SD45 shell, the yellow was physically thicker than the blue. I’m doing this one as an ATSF B unit, which were solid blue with yellow ends, but no warbonnet (kind of like the pre-72 old ATSF scheme). If I had left it as is, you would have been able to see the outline of the warbonnet in the paint even though it was painted over.

Also, especially if you’re doing a light color, it’s much easier to paint a shell that’s been stripped and then given a light primer coat (I like a very pale gray).

Sometimes you can get away with not st

8

Dacort,

Thanks for your response regarding the Scale Coat Paint remover. It’s funny, as a former paint & body man I used sandblasters and bead blasting machines for years but was always hestant about using them on models.

Years ago at the transit company I worked at, I did use the bead blaster to strip a metal rusty O-Scale steam loco shell for one of the supervisors who knew I was a modeler. The glass beads did an almost “flawless” job. But I still did not seriously consider stripping a “plastic” HO loco shell with the blaster. Concern being molded on body detailing.

I should have used my head back then and experimented with one of my “junker” Tyco or Bachmann freight cars that I test my airbrush on.

Doggone it! Now you have me thinking! Perhaps purchasing a sand or bead blaster might be a better way for me to go. I have several P2K E unit and Athearn FP45 shells I want to strip and even during vacations my hobby times seem to be limited. Speed is something I’m looking for and even 91% alcohol can be slow with certain colors on BB Athearns.

See what you’ve made me done! [:p]

Thanks, and a High Greens to you!

9

Sorry about that. :slight_smile:

The only downside I’ve found so far with the sandblaster is that it can be difficult to find sources for the aluminum oxide particles. The eBay store where I got such a good deal on the sandblaster doesn’t carry refills. I ended up ordering a 5 lb tub direct from Walthers.

I am thinking seriously of buying or making a spray booth to catch the stuff and getting some fine me***o sift it so that I can reuse it more effectively.

BTW, I have no affiliation with Badger other than I like their products.

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River eagle,

I would tend to agree with Kato that you’re probably better off getting an undecorated shell to start with. It’s certainly less work. The problem is, they can be hard to come by at a reasonable cost. I’ve been watching Kato undecorated SD40-2 shells go for up to $40 on eBay. To me that seems a little steep.

I have several Kato locomotives that are on my repaint list and most of them are already factory painted, so I am going to try to make use of what I’ve got.

11

I have a Kato NW2 at a shop for repainting and DCC upgrade. I believe the shop is using an ultrasonic machine to remove the old paint. Anyone familiar with this method?

BTW, I agree with Kato about repainting their engines. I sent this engine out after I realized I could get what I was looking for without a major expense (i.e. Kato RS-2). The cost is going to be ridiculous in the end but we learn from our mistakes. At least I’ll have a one of a kind Kato NW2 NYC #8700 with sound and DCC. LOL.

12

Dacort,…the news is not bleak for you.

Auto Body shops that specializing in paint customizing and classic car restoration sometimes utilize bead blasting. Check with one or its Auto Body supply store. They should be able to point you in the right direction as far as supply sources.

Also, there are businesess that do nothing but sandblasting and bead blasting for local and industrial customers. You can check in your phone book under “Sandblasting”. These folks may also tell you where to purchase glass beads, aluminum oxide,plastic pellets, etc., of various grades for plastic applications.

Cheers!

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I think Micromark sells the stuff, as I recall.

www.micromark.com

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Thanks, guys. I will keep those sources in mind when I run out again.