Advice for a modular layout aorund my hobby room

Yeah, I guess that I kinda miss the point of nolixes.

Rich

A nolix needs a big room so you can have a modest grade between “towns” or “yards” and then each area where you switch is flat. If you don’t have the space for that or you’re not building some type of logging railroad where steep inclines make sense then you probably need to go the helix route or just live with a single level layout.

2 Likes

Yeah, that’s what I am gathering from this discussion.

Rich

1 Like

Where did you get that Helix Calculator?

Marius, take a look at XtrackCAD, XTrkCAD Model RR Track Planner / Wiki / Home

It’s a completely free program.

1 Like

Found it by chance on the site of a Danish enthusiast:

2 Likes

Thanks! I tried xtrkcad for 5 minutes some years ago and remember I thought it had a steep learning curve. But Im sure it could be worth to try to learn it.Maybe I will give it some more minutes.

Do you have the same idea as me for a nolix route?
Im thinking 15" between the possibly 2 levels. In addition my plan is that the module is 4" thick. Anyrail says that the gradient will be 4,4%

2 Likes

That seems pretty steep.

Rich

Thank you

Gidday Marius, the reason I suggested a nolix is that if I had a room with the same dimensions, a helix would not work for me as not only does it take too much space, in My opinion, but it would limit access for Me to the rear left-hand corner, as viewed from the door.

My idea for the nolix was that it ran completely around the room, so that the grade was workable for model trains. The reasons I wanted to know what your work bench and layout heights were, was to be able to workout the grade for the nolix. With a height of 51 cm/20” between the top of the rails, according to my calculations, a grade of 3% would be required. This grade should also clear your work bench on the left-hand wall.

A 4.4% grade makes Me cringe! I say this because the local Clubs Mountain Exhibition layout had a helix with a 46 cm/18” radius and a 4% grade and like a 1:1 railway, provided there was enough motive power, it worked well, but only going up! Going down the engines tended to surge and it just wasn’t nice on several aspects. (I have some video of the layout in action, but wish that I had taken a more “scientific approach” to show how different locomotives and train lengths behaved on that helix.)

Again, to My mind, a train, consisting of a locomotive or two, with seven 40-foot cars, and a caboose, total length of around 153 cm/5 feet, would not only be visually pleasing but also a practicable number of cars if switching moves were to be taken, should be acceptable with a 3% grade. (Of course, if you just wished to have a train circulate on the level, the length is as long as you wish.)

While the door opens out which is very useful, I’m not sure how you intend to enter the room, your bottom of your “top level” at 130cm/4’3” could be permanent if you were prepared for a “duckunder”, and have the nolix as a lift out.(?) (I would personally use a wheeled office chair but do note that your floor levels are different.)

Please note that while others have expressed their valid preferences, the above are My personal preferences, and may not be best for you.

Cheers, the Bear. :slightly_smiling_face:

3 Likes

Thanks. Your perspectives are interesting. I’m a bit skeptical about the helix myself, just as you write - that it takes up a lot of space. The reason why I demolished my previous construction, before it was finished, was that I experienced building myself in - going all in for a train room. It was either/or. Spending years with building and then have to destroy everything if moving. Thats why Im thinking about a lighter construction that is somewhat modular.

I didn’t think about the nolix going around the whole room. I’ll check it out later today.

In front of the door, I thought of a hinged bridge construction instead of a “duck under”

1 Like

[quote=“Marius, post:32, topic:406222”]
In front of the door, I thought of a hinged bridge construction instead of a “duck under”
[/quote]

I know you say a hinged bridge, but if you take the duck under route, stay low. It hurts if you do not. :boom: I know. :wink:

David

1 Like

Gidday Marius, while I haven’t mentioned your plan to build modules before, it is a very good idea if you have to, or decide to, move. At least you will have something to show for your work.

Your hinged bridge across the door is also a very good idea. With your large scale RC aeroplane hanging on the wall and in the rafters, your copy of the Swedish modelling magazine, and the tools on your work bench, suggest that your modelling efforts require good access to and from the room.

Have Fun.
Cheers, the Bear. :slightly_smiling_face:

4 Likes

Me too Bear. Like I said, I have about a 3.5% grade. It was needed to make the track plan work and it was a plan I wanted to build for literally decades, but I won’t have another on the next layout. Too steep for what I want to run.

The nolix might not be bad if it was tucked to the back of the benchwork, behind the other track/scenery. Sort of a hidden helix. I also wondered about the location for the helix, being in the middle of the room. Then I figured it had to do with the work benches already in the room and the need to access the middle of the helix.

Will be neat to see what Marius decides.

3 Likes

Going around the room, I get 3% gradient, rising 16" from level 0 to level 1. That gives around 12" between the two decks. Is that a little tight for lanscaping?

Im not sure if a helix or nolix provides so much more to a possible layout with the obstacles in the room and need for keeping the work bench areas. I can only see that it gives one more small station/industry. Probably have to stay awake several nights to find the perfect solution. :sweat_smile:

4 Likes

Gidday Marius, The Bear has been known to do his best thinking whilst asleep!! :laughing: :laughing:

You are correct, that in your situation, the nolix does only give access to on small industry. For Me the extra cost in construction, and rail to achieve that limited goal would not be worth it. There is the possibility you could have an extra module(s)/ (section) on the other walls, making them all on the one level.

Mike, I’ve never envisaged that I would hide a nolix. OK, so the placement of a visible scenicked nolix breaks the “Rule” that a train should not run through the same scene twice but hey…
Besides I like the idea of watching locomotives “battling the grade.”

Just my 2 kroner/cents worth, Cheers, the Bear. :slightly_smiling_face:

4 Likes

So noted, Bear, and not surprising! :rofl:

Rich

3 Likes

Having it visible wouldn’t bother me either. Nor does having a train pass through a scene more than once. Good thing too. On one wall of my layout, trains pass through the same scene three times, albeit on different elevations. Twice one direction, once the opposite, so I can’t use the old “heading right is east” concept. Doesn’t bother me one bit.

4 Likes

Rule 1 off course.

I love that rule.

David

2 Likes