Advice needed: Can this be repaired?

I’m wondering why these wires broke. I hate to say it, but I sense that the loco ran without having the tender drawbar correctly connected. It’s a common problem, and if you fix it with original parts, it may break again. You might want to consider installing a permanent drawbar to relieve that pressure on the wiring. That’s what I would do - and I would hardwire the connection as I never swap tenders between locos.

Anyway, that’s my [2c]

Simon

Wow there is a lot of info here to digest. Thanks for all the pointers. At first I thought I was in the clear for a simple fix with Ed’s suggestion. Thinking I could order the part and “plush and play” put me over the moon. But in the back of my head I was thinking I don’t recall seeing a plug on the loco. So before ordering I inspected by taking off the shell. Sure enough this is what I found.

Loco repair 3

So, now, is it easier to try and “re-pin” the wires to the holes they broke from? Or remove the 6 wires from the inside of the loco, order the replacement, chop off one end and solder 6 new wires inside the loco?

If you can get a new harness, just unsolder the old, solder on the new.

Mike.

At this point I would buy a new connector and rewire it using #30 black super flex Silicone wire. I’ve had very good luck using the Silicone wire, it flexes without breaking at solder joints.

Measure the JST connector and buy a bag of connectors off eBay for about $1.

I wire all my passenger cars using the Silicone wire between cars and I haven’t had a broken wire in years of rough service.

eBay link for the wire I use.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/14-16-18-20-22-24-26-28-30AWG-UL-Strand-Wire-Silicone-Flexible-Cables-Coloured/263738999323?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=562934208418&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Mel

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

To be honest, you can get multiple 6-pin plug-with-pre-wired-half-harness assemblies, complete with mating sockets (as earlier described) from sources like eBay for a fraction of ‘factory’ harness cost, and with free shipping too. Most of the ones I see use colored wires, as well – you can wrap or paint the visible part of the harness if the colors are objectionable. If you are confident of your fluxing and soldering skills I would greatly recommend this over trying to repair JST pins without special tools, considering that other wires in the connector are likely fatigued. (Note that this was suggested almost at the start of this thread.)

There is also the potential issue that the Lionel replacement harness pin dimensions are different from what is present. This could be checked but the time and trouble to confirm it might not be worthwhile – I would do as previously recommended and carefully measure the pitch of pins or sockets to be sure what this is.

It is possible that Lionel replaced that pad PCB with the correct mating socket for the harness replacement, as a running production change, and Ed might have a corresponding illustration and parts list that shows this. If the socket were to fit in place, and cost relatively little in addition to the harness and shipping, the only soldering would be internal connections, and the engine would be properly converted if the problem ever recurs. That’s more work, less certainty, and about as much soldering as the new replacement, but it is a choice to consider.

I note that one eBay seller (bmantya70 in Orlando, FL) says that he’s happy to assist in confirming exactly what connector type you need if you message him. This might be true

Having now located and exposed the business end of the loco plug you’re halfway there. If you take the shell off the tender you’ll see how tricky it might be to rewire that half. If it’s easy then a new connector, both halves, should work best. I did look at the current Lionel parts diagram and it looks like maybe even they redesigned this connection. I wonder how old your version might be?

Incidentally there is a product called ‘anti-flux’ that you can apply where you do NOT want solder – this might be invaluable when keeping all those little connections electrically separate. The Tix anti-flux is a powder you mix with … well, I use alcohol, but you could use deionized water … and then paint on and let dry. Scrub it off with whatever flux is left when you’re done.

https://harmoninie.com/products/terminal-ejector-kit-2?fbclid=IwAR33VBoyjFOAqbXonG_6yJoBwymoZYnOqfUSAHJeEdYIP027W5aPmuMPZOY

This is a late reply, but I just had this exact problem myself. The pins were too small for me to undo and insert the wire, so I had temporary success by removing the pin and stripping the end of the wire and just pushing that into the connector. The long term solution is the replace the part and use Shoe Goo or similar to make a strain relief to prevent it from happening again. The Lionel part # is 87-1811011-340. It can be found at Hennings. The part is the PCB board with the wires and connector for $7.25 as of January '22.

https://hennings-trains.shoplightspeed.com/87-1811011-340-pcb-w-harness-ho-berk.html

The parts breakdown is at: https://www.lionelsupport.com/ReplacementParts/index.cfm?startRow=26&PRODUCTID=73800C91-D5F1-473F-8350-8E3D21288C4D&DOACTION=productPartFilter

I hope this helps anyone who stumbles upon this while looking for a solution.