AF smoke unit suddenly stopped smoking fuel not the issue.
What steps should I take in order to determine the cause, from most likely to lease likely would be great.
Thanks,
Bob
Hi Bob,
I really can’t diagnose the issue without knowing more about the locomotive. What model number is it? How old? What type of smoke unit? Any pictures would be really helpful.
Thank you for your interest in helping me.
Let me know if you need further info
Thanks again
Bob
326 Engine Everything is original except electronic reverse unit
The 326 engine originally had a 5 wire hookup to the engine. This allowed the smoke unit and light to be powered directly from the two track pickups in the tender. Assuming you now have a Dallee 400 electronic unit in the tender it is made only for the older 4 wire hookup. It can be adapted to separately power the smoke unit and headlight by running 6 wires to the tender as shown in their instructions.
If you used the six wire method there is a open circuit somewhere in the black or the blue wiring. It is possible the Nichrome wire broke at the connection in the smoke unit.
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Tom,
Thanks for responding. when I asked Dallee, they confirmed the smoke unit was working fine because while it was working it was hard to see the smoke. Once I got it back its been working great,. Very disappointing to see it stop all of a sudden.
thanks,
Bob
Sounds like the heating element or the wick in the smoke unit burnt out. To replace those, you need a section of Nichrome wire and angel-hair or horsehair for a wick. I would look up a tutorial video, but basically you need to open the smoke chamber, remove the old wick and element (clean out the chamber too), wind a new wick on the Nichrome, and then close it in and soldier everything. The problem is Nichrome is really hard to soldier so you need to get it firmly connected.
It is not unusual for a 70 year old smoke unit to suddenly fail. Replacement wicks prewound with Nichrome wire are available.
Who sells the pre-wound ones? Port Lines?
Port Lines or the Train Tender.
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I can’t solder worth a damn, an other options.
Thanks,
Bob
Maybe look for someone in your area you could have do the repair? What area are you in?
I was afraid of that.
I live high up in the Sierra Nevada Mountains north of Yosemite
Bob
Well, I didn’t find any hobby or repair shops in your area, but maybe there’s someone you’d like to ship your 326 to for the repair?
Thanks to you and Tom for all your help. After thinking about it over night. I looked up Port Lines web site and found the instructions and preround replacement wicks. Since I do enjoy working on my train and its 70 years old, I decided that is about time I learn how to solder. I have a parts engine that I can practice on.
I would appreciate any advice. For one, what size solder should I use? Previously I tried with the fat solder that I use for copper pipes and made a mess. There has got to be a better size for trains.
Thanks again,
Bob
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You have to use silver solder (higher temperature and usually harder alloy) for Nichrome. This will require an appropriate non-acid, no-clean flux, and you should get in the habit of using flux liberally and wisely in your soldering practice… it is about as important as keeping your tip clean and well-tinned at all times.
There are specialty soldering sites (described in other posts here on soldering) that can advise you on the best solder and flux for this application.
Don’t skimp on an iron, even if you don’t think you’ll be doing a lot of soldering. Get a good station with a temperature gauge for the tip, not a pencil or gun type. I would also look into resistance-soldering rigs for some jobs (this one included)
In passing, a much better way to do this is with a capacitive-discharge spot welder. To see one of these in action look up the YouTube video of a Scandinavian manufacturing Nixie tubes.
For soldering things associated with my S gauge layout I like to keep it simple. I have an adjustable iron I rarely use, a 60W iron with a wedge tip I use for rail soldering and a 100W gun I use for wiring.
Port Lines repair clinic #1 details how to install their replacement wicks. The Nichrome wire is not really soldered, the 3 or 4 turns wrapped around the lug are encased in solder. My 100W gun does this perfectly. It is pretty easy with one or two practice runs. Remember to pre-tin the gun and use a rosin core electrical solder. Separate flux can be applied prior to soldering but it is not essential for the wick replacement.
When soldering rail separate flux is needed. Circuit board soldering requires care and usually a good soldering station for constant, correct iron temperature.
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Great thanks for the info folks. just finished removing my wick from the parts engine. Living up here in the sticks (actually trees) and far enough from the conveniences of civilization I’ve become big on repurposing what I have handy.
Can I repurpose this wick or should I
Fuhgeddaboudit?
Thanks,
Bob
Measure the resistance across the Nichrome wire on the wick. If it is between 35 and 43 ohms it will be ok to use. Below 35 ohms is ok, it will just not last as long.
There appears to be no smoke fluid hardened on the wick. The scorching at the winding indicates the wick was operated dry. These need to be kept wet, it takes more smoke fluid than many operators use. When reassembled, put in 20 drops of smoke fluid, let it sit for half an hour then put in 15 more. Only then begin to operate the engine. After every 15 minutes of operation add another 10 drops. If the engine sits overnight always add at least 5 drops prior to operating the engine.
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Thanks Tom, you made my day.
Double checking: Using this wick, I’ll just need to get the silver solder and will only need to use it for the two wire connections???
Thanks,
Bob
One suggestion: if the wick has been sitting a while, I’d use flux on the joint even if the solder is acting as ‘glue’ for wire-wraps. You don’t want any chance of a cold-solder lack of bond inside the solder bead where you won’t see it.