OK… I have been out of the hobby for a long time so bear with this question. When I was a kid in high school back in the 80’s it was taboo to even think of buying a Bachmann or Life Like Loco. With that said… I just bought an old AHM E8 and two LifeLike/Proto E8’s on ebay.
Now with a couple of tricks I discovered how to get an AHM E8 to run smooth as glass back when I bought my first one in 1986 and the detail on the shell was good enough for me. So I am thinking… What are the Proto E8’s going to be like compaired to the old AHM? I have never seen the Proto’s in person. I just got the old AHM new in box (NOS) for $41.00, I paid $70.90 for a Proto E8 L&N and $60.39 for another Proto E8 B&O. I hope they are worth the 131.00 bucks.
I plan on fixing the drive on the AHM and giving it to my son if the proto’s are what everyone says they are. I would also like to get two undecorated shells for the Proto E8’s. Is this possible? Does Proto sell undecked shells for the E8’s?
The Protos are superior in EVERY respect; detail, running characteristics, reliability, prototype fidelity, electrical draw, etc…the only time that the AHM beats out the Proto is in price.
For the shells, you’ll have to contact www.walthers.com as they now own the LifeLike Proto line. I have matched up the old Rivarossi shells to the Proto E-8 drives without much trouble.
If you’re impressed with the way your AHM E8 runs then the Proto 2000 E8 will blow you away. I have 7 Proto E’s (5 E6’s and 2 E7’s) and I’m very happy with them.
I have two of each. I’ve had the Rivarossi’s (AHM) for about 20 years. A good mid price range performed. The P2K is simply in a different class. It is top of the line if you don’t count brass. Outstanding performer, excellent detail, and sound. I got both of mine when Walthers had them on sale for about a hundred bucks. They were a steal.
Unfortunately, all Walthers offered in the NYC paint scheme was the A units. I would like to get a B unit with compatible paint scheme but I don’t see one currently offered. I might try hunting down one of those old Rivarossi dummy B units in NYC livery.
I’m sure your son will enjoy the AHM… Make sure no trains are in the way when you need to suddenly stop the p2k e-8 because on level track they have a coast distance of about 3 feet. Maybe exagerated a Little but those large flywheels really make for a smooth run.
I love my P2K’s E8’s I got three of them and they are all wonderful engines. The only thing to say about is that you should be careful when handling them due to their fine details, especially the grab irons. But that is not a bad thing, just be careful.
I have an AHM e8, when it ran I was pleased, but its been out of action for years. needs new motor, etc, I wont be ressurecting it. I have an AHM BL2, pulls like crazy and runs sweet.
Trying to remember if NWSL had a regear for it or not.
Its a good model, pre-today’s stuff. Often the model magazines reviews had been good on the Rivarrossi models except for the deep flanges, with reasonable details. But consider… I have Athearn’s RDC’s, rubber band drive…onoooos. Ernst had their gearing kit. Well, there are newer RDC’s out there, so I plan to sell off my RDC’s, when I am ready for RDC’s again, I’ll get the newer ones, I think Bachman or LL had them
Different Manufacturers generally means dfferent drives & different speeds - and probably different couplers, as well. Never mind, you got a ‘deal’, right?.
Just keep telling yourself that, over and over - how about 20 years from now?
Meanwhile you are in an excellent position to compare ‘Apples’ and ‘Oranges’ - after you “tweak” the AHM ‘Orange’.
Oh yes it is. If the locomotives aren’t matched then they will be putting stress on one another instead of pulling the train. One can easily strip a motor gear, crack an axle gear, and prematurely wear out drive shaft couplings and even motors. Some of the wheels might also be spinning (this would actually be better than the above) and therefore scratching up and wearing down the rails and the wheels themselves. I believe the Proto E units have been produced in several different gear ratios.
Do you mean you are going to run the protos together or the protos with the AHM? It might be better to just pull the motor off the one truck of the AHM and use it as a dummy.
Believe me, they won’t be speed matched. The Rivarossi E8 has such high speed gearing that it could probably give that Tyco Turbotrain a run for it’s money. About the only thing I can say in favor of the Rossi is that it runs smooth. Once you get a Proto 2K, you won’t look back. Detail, weight, power, flywheels, prototypical speeds, and let’s not forget 12-wheel drive. You might be able to recoup what you paid on the Rivarossi if you decide to sell it on eBay, but I’m really not sure what they’re going for now.
I have one AHM E8 that was made in the 80s. I also have a small fleet of Proto E units. The difference is incredible! You won’t be disappointed with the P2K E unit. Beautifully detailed, smooth solid puller, and “heavy as a brick!” (don’t drop one on your foot [;)] )
Word of caution: Be very carefull when handling. Those pretty lift rings on the roof, unfortunately, break easily. I’ve broken a number on several e-units and am going to replace them with metal rings that I bought at my LHS. I now make sure that the palm of my hand does not touch the roof whenever I carry one of these units.
Last I checked, the individual body shells are not availabe, however, you can call Walthers on their toll free number and ask a customer service rep.
Check ebay, regularly. I picked up a P2K E7 body (L&N) in excellent condition for $14!
If you view my video closely and see the yellow/red fuel tank details… those are the pins that secure the entire body.
Always lift the unit by the fuel tank.
I’ll take a shot at Kalmbach and say that they should video tape the new units on thier layout when they are offered by the manufactors. I understand that there might be issues with editing, bandwidth and time. One prospective buyer should be able to look up the video for any locomotive on the market eventually.
At the present time, sites like youtube and others make that task easy.
If the locomotives are NOT EVER coupled together, and they are running independently from one another, on separate trains, they will not effect each other.
I recieved the AHM today and one of the Proto’s.
I stand corrected on 2 issues;
First off, the E8/9 that I had as a kid was NOT an AHM. I thought it was, but after looking at the AHM that I recieved today, my E8/9 I had back in the 80’s was another brand. I wish I knew what it was now. It had a very large can motor, with a large flywheel on the back of the motor, and both trucks driven via drive shafts. Anyone know what brand it might have been? Maybe a Model Power?
Secondly, the Proto IS a far superior loco to the AHM.
But my boy loves the AHM so it was still worth the 36 and change.
The E8 you had as a kid was a Model Power, made by Roco in Austria. They had heavy diecast chassis and the largest can motors in HO. They were very nice engines for the time.
It’s a good thing you got both brands. You wouldn’t want him handling the Protos with all of that fine detail.
