This is what im working with…yes its new, right out of the box, and to my undestanding the needle is inside the cone/tip
http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/kdaff51/media/Airbrush001_zps7c0b763b.jpg.html
http://www.paascheairbrush.com/
And there is no tutorial on the page Im lookin seeing
Steve,
I’ve been following this thread out of curiosity. (I don’t even own a Paasche airbrush.) I was initially unable to locate the turtorial until I went back and entered the URL into the Google search page. Several hits down the page led to a YouTube tutorial. Here is the URL for it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugFi0t7c4o0
Good luck!
You will get the best results spraying craft acrylics by:
1- Using the largest tip / needle combination available for your Air Brush;
2- Dilute the paint using Wagoner Paint Easy by 50/50. You can thin it more if you need to. (I get mine from Lowes.);
3- Use 30 to 35 psi.
I just painted some plaster rock castings on our club layout today with my VL and craft paints, all as described in the three points above. It worked great.
The Wagoner Paint Easy will thin the paint without diluting the pigment and binder. Using water, alcohol, or window cleaner thins the pigment and binder properties too much for good coverage.
Daff,
The Tutorial is there,but forget it,It’s for a older H-Model airbrush,the one you show with the different, cones,is a newer model,look behind the button on top,the type should be stamped there on the chrome,I believe that is a type HS…Without it in my hands,I can’t tell you how to get it to work,The far right is a tip,that that the fatter cones will go into,Only air comes out that tip,the paint or liquid comes out the cone…
I’m really surprised that you have no instructions with it…Call Paasche,that’s the only thing I can suggest now…
Good Luck
Cheers,
Frank
I finally got the needles out of the cones cleaned them both along with the color jar, reassembled it and put thinner in the color jar and still all I get is air. It is a siphon problem.
I saw the tutorial you referenced and even though it was not my model, was informative.
I called Paasche twice today with no results (will call me back!).
I do have two manuals that came with it. One is mostly a parts listings with a very simple “how to operate” and the other is a how to manual on the “art of spray painting”.
Anyway stay tuned and if I get this thing to working Ill let you know the secret.
Thanks to you and all involved for your help.
[tup]
Steve
Steve,
Thanks for the come back,seeing that you saw the Tutorial,it’s similar to yours, I hope at least,now you know that what I was trying to explain,in how it works,that I wasn’t ‘‘nut’s’’.LOL.
Good Luck!!
Cheers,
Frank
Saga comes to a close.
Cleaned everything last evening. Got up this morning, hooked it up and damn if it worked. So far I,ve painted the car, mailbox and the neighbors cat whom we now call SPOT!
I think what was happening was when I rotated the tip it was pulling the needle with it, staying closed if that makes any sense. I know that when taking it apart for cleaning last night that needle was tough to get out.
So as of this moment I have decided to keep working on my rr and not throw it in the junk pile as I was close to last night.
The reason I couldn’t find the tutorial is because I was looking on the Paasche page instead of the Google search results page which does prove your not nutz but that I’m a dumb ass!
Appreciate all you help.
Steve
[:D]
Glad you got it working, and do not assume you are dumb. Remember, there is generally one way to get things right, but a whole list of ways for them to get bollixed up. The odds are always stacked against us, and then you factor in Mr. Murphy. At least that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
I felt bad because I’ve been using a Paasche VL series for nearly 20 years not and I could not come up with any possible solutions to your predicament. I couldn’t even remember what I did the last time I had a similar problem.
I will warn you, airbrushing does get addictive. When I am not in the mode of painting for a long period, I dread it largely because of the clean up process. When I am in the painting mode, which I have been lately, I realize that cleaning it up is not a tough process. When you take them apart to clean them enough, it becomes fairly routine.
Steve,
Glad to hear about your success…Those needle’s can be a pita,if not cleaned very well…I’d like to see that cat…LOL… One more tip,if you will,get yourself a quart of lacquer thinner,a glass jar with lid,put all those cone’s and tips in it and let it soak about 24 hours…If you get in a habit of doing that,every once in a while,you won’t have any problem’s with your brush…
I don’t think your stupid,maybe frustrated,and I don’t blame you…
Have Fun,I have to tell you this story,one Halloween,my younger son’s wife,painted my Black Lab,like a skunk…Thank God,it was,clown make-up…LOL…
Cheers,
Frank
I can’t tell you how much better I’m feeling today as opposed to yesterday. Stuff like that just drives me nuts.
Now if you don’t mind me asking your opinion about paints.
Someone gave me about 10 bottles of Sprectra Tex paint. They seem to very “thinned” in the bottle and not sure how they would do on plastics.
I have an unlimited access to Apple Barrel acrylics and Folkart acrylics. Your opinion on those, please.
And lastly what do you think is the best brand out there that is widely available.
Again I can’t tell you how much I appreciate the help.
Steve
Steve,
Now that is a big, can of worms…I can only speak from my experience,other’s are entitled to their own…I used to paint a lot of,full size,trucks and cars and have always used,solvent based paints…I was and still am using Floquil solvent based paints,I have enough to last my lifetime, other paints include,water based acrylics,but I use denatured Alcohol in all my thinning,works fine for me…I use Tamiya,Citadel,which is unique to Military,War Hammer Figures,Model Master,Polly Scale,Pactra…I stay away from Scale-coat,I believe it’s II. The Sprectra Tex paint,I believe,is ready for air brush painting,right out of the bottle…I try to use paint,that you can also brush,any of them…There are many paints out there,that do a fine job,one key is how they are mixed,or thinned,the other being experience,your’e best teacher…experiment a little on scrap and see what you like,I can only suggest from my learning…Just remember to always clean the air brush and you will not have any problem’s…PM me some day and I will show you some of the Antique cars I’ve owned and painted,My favorite,was my 49 Ford,Metallic Root Beer,custom…
Take Care…
Cheers,
Frank
Frank, I’m like you that I prefer solvent-based paints. I have always used Floquil regardless of whether the model was brass, zinc, plastic, resin, whatever. With the upcoming demise of Floquil and given the fact they did not really have a color close to what I wanted, I switched to Tru-Color and found the results quite good, as well.
The passenger train in my signature was done with a mixture of Polly S (the purple) and Floquil (the Platinum Mist body). It took me a while to come to agreement with Polly S, particularly an airbrush thinner (including distilled water) that would give me steady results and minimizing clogging. Some of that was probably pressure related, I’m sure.
I’ve used Model Master with decent enough results, although I was neither impressed nor unimpressed by the process.
I keep two Paasche VLs around, one I rebuilt after about 10 years. Cleaning them should be the last part of the painting process. Keep a supply of Q-tips around.
Now you have to tell me how to PM
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