I’m sure this has been covered in the past but a search for “Badger 350” gave 0 results and a search for “Badger air brush” yeilded results but no threads per se.
I am new to acrylics but not to airbrushing.Years ago, I had a Binks Wren that I used quite successfully. When I bought the 350, I thought I was getting essentially the same brush. Not so. The Binks nozzles had a replaceable “o” ring that prevented air leaks as well as providing friction so the paint volume would remain as initially set. The nozzle also threaded into the brush body and remained tight. The teflon hose that is in the paint container lid, refuses to stay in the brush body and falls out mid way.[8o|] The Binks air button had a adjustment wheel to control the amount of air without going back to the regulator. The 350 is either on or off.
Have there been any solutions to these areas?
Why did my paint bubble up into the air hole in the top of the paint bottle?[*-)]
Sounds like maybe your old brush was a double action brush, and the new one a single action?? With double action your trigger controls the amount of air and the amount of paint. With single action, you only control the air and use another way (usually a screw set at the end of the brush) to introduce paint to the air.
Bubbling means your airbrush is blocked up. Acrylic paint dries VERY fast and easily gums up internal-mix airbrushes. Try washing it out with Windex, maybe letting it soak overnight in it. I used to use expensive double-action / internal mix airbrushes with thinner based paints, but went to cheapo external mix ones when I switched to acrylics.
The Badger 350 is a single action ‘external’ mix air brush. The Binks ‘Wren’ is a similar external mix air brush. Do you have some Binks model that is ‘dual action’ adjustable air/paint mixing?.
I had a Badger 350(won it at a train show many years ago) It painted fine, and was easy to clean up. The problem is that even with a fine tip, there was too much ‘splatter’ at low air pressure when weathering a model. One really needs an ‘internal’ mix air brush to get the fine powder type of spray for weathering. I finally gave it to a young modeler who really did not need that feature.
To Spray acrylic(or water based) paint; look at the MR’s Workbench Guide that shipped with the new October issue. On page 10/11 is a pretty good guide for spraying paint. Not all paint is shipped ‘air brush’ ready. Floquil Polly Scale varies with each color. What you need to do is mix the paint really good(sired, not shaken) and then thin it to the consistency of 2% milk. I use 20-25 lbs of air pressure in my trusty Badger 200(over 40 years old). I have found that Badger Modelflex is ‘air brush’ ready out of the bottle(just stir it up). If it is still too thick, thin it with some distilled water. Tamiya painta also spray quite well out of the bottle.
I bought a new dual action Badger at the NMRA show this summer(Patriot series?), and I can spray most any acrylic with about 15 lbs with that air brush.
Work bench guide? What work bench guide? I received the October issue and didn’t get any such animal. Was there an insert in the magazine that someone wanted more than me?
Hmmmmmm, a benefit for non-subscribers, eh? I saw that there was an insert in my magazine where they were offering that guide as a bonus if you subscribed, but I guess subscribers didn’t get a copy (or else it fell out).
I know you said that there was some info on painting in the booklet. Was that information worthwhile, and was the rest of the booklet worthwhile? I’d like to know so that I can determine if it’s worth my while to call customer service and request a copy.
Bruce, others here have given good advice, but my view is slightly different - throw out the acrylic paints and buy some Scalecoat or Floquil - you will be much happier and so will your airbrush - any airbrush.
They will have to stop making solvent based paints before I ever consider putting acrylic paint in an air brush again.
I have no problem getting Scalecoat solvent and it seems to work fine with Floquil. I use Scalecoat (I & II) for most all rolling stock/locomotive painting because its gloss finish is perfect for decaling. Than I use their clear, which comes gloss and flat and can be mixed for any finish you desire - flat, satin, semi gloss or gloss.
I only use Floquil for structures and such were the flat finish is desired from the start. And, Scalecoat does have some flats in their line.