Okay, paint is paint, yes? I got some Kustom Kolor paints, and at $5 for 1 oz I was frustrated. I went to Wal-Mart and got some cheaper paint, and now I’m paying for it I think.
I have a Master G44 , double action gravity fed - and it seemed to work fine with ‘airbrush paint’ though I believe this is just enamel paint mixed different and then overpriced.
So I got cheap paint from wallyworld, and I’m clogging all the time - what’s teh best way to mix this stuff so it works right? Is there any hope, or do I have to bite the bullet and spend the $$ on ‘airbrush’ paint? Help me please
What cheap paint did you buy? The 2oz. bottles of acrylic craft paint for $.75 ??
The Kustom Kolors paint is high quality (lacquer?) paint. This is comparing apples to oranges.
What are you painting? Clogging could be crap in the paint. Wrong size tip. Wrong air pressure. Wrong thinner. (need a little more info)
While we are talking about Airbrushes, what is a good brand? I am looking to do some paintwork, but in the past have used only brushes. I wasn’t happy with the brush strokes that were left in certain kinds of paint.
Usually the consistency of milk is about right for airbrushes (or that’s what a lot of people say – brush painter for the time being, for a number of reasons). With that it’s hard to say, but ueually cutting the paint 50/50 would be a good starting point, and then experiment from there. Also you could check the manual that came with the airbrush to find what they say the ideal consistency is.
I have had very good results with Badger and Paasche. I’ve used a Paasche VL for nearly 20 years. Last I checked, the VL kit, which includes 3 different sized needles and air cap setups (for fine, medium, and viscuous paint mixes) sold between $75-$90. Some do show up on Ebay (new and used) and can be won at lower bids.
I currently use a Badger 360 Universal airbrush. Also a very good unit. I used one to metalize the Metroliners that I posted about recently.
Remember, regardless of which quality airbrush you purchase it is important that you keep it clean. Flush out with lacquer thinner when spraying solvent based paints. Flush with distilled water or a mix of distilled water and 70/% alcohol when spraying acrylic (water based) paints. Wipe the needle and aircap clean.
I’ve read forum posts where modelers complaint about airbrush cleaning, but it sometimes makes me laugh a bit. On average it takes me 10 to 15 seconds to flush out an airbrush and another minute to remove and gently wipe off the needle and aircap with a soaked cloth, and then reinstall.
When you get your airbrush, don’t slap it together and start spraying with it. Read your manual thorougly first in a relaxed mood. Practice on some scrap cars or plastic materials. I keep a couple of old Bachmann freight car shells handy to test my airbrush on before I begin the actual spray job.
AntonioFP45, thank you very much for the info! I forgot to ask before about compressors, I know that I can get propellant cans but also that the $ adds up.
I don’t know how much you will have to spend but I usually suggest that modelers avoid the typical, small hobby air compressors. Generally, I’ve found over the years that if used frequently, they tend not to be very durable, run hot, and produce moisture that comes through in the air hose.
For the same $100 price area, a better value is the pancake and suitcase compressors sold at home/building supply stores such as Home Depot and Lowes. I’ve seen these compressors go on sale for as low as $99. They are oiless and do make noise ( but then, so do many of the small hobby compressors). Whatever compressor you decide to purchase, make certain that you install a water filter or trap on the airline if it’s not already supplied in the kit. Because of friction, plus the heat produced from the compressor itself, moisture can build up in the airline and come through the airbrush or tool being used and ruin an otherwise beautiful paint job. (been there done that).
I’ve got a one gallon oilless pancake style. It’s loud and annoying and pretty much too small. I would recommend something with a bigger tank. I wish I would have got at least a 5 gallon.
Don’t forget about a regulator and filter too.
Antonio-Mine is the Campbell/Hausfeld 1 gallon. It worked OK for about a year and started getting pretty tired. I took it apart to try and rebuild the head and was shocked at how cheaply made it is. They don’t sell the rings and seals separately for it. You have to buy a whole new head which costs as much as a new compressor. I wouldn’t recommend that particular brand.
The water/alcohol mix should be about 80/20, any more alcohol can make the paint dry too fast. I use a ModelMaster/Testors thinner bottle.
When switching between enamels (solvent based) and acrylics, be sure that the airbrush and paint cup/bottle are thoroughly cleaned and completely dry to avoid gumming things up.
Paint for airbrushing should be thinned and strained. Thin to the consistency of whole milk. Strain (after thinning) with new/used stockings or fine screen.
Many hobby shops carry little 1oz cups for mixing epoxy, they work for paint just as well. If you visit Mickey D’s, they often have those little plastic 1/2oz condiment cups, (don’t use the paper ones), I always make sure I grab a handfull when I’m there (and they’re free). If you have a restaurant supply store in your area, they usually have various sizes of plastic cups in 250 counts for less than $5.
Air pressure for acrylics should be around 20 to 30 psi. Try 25psi and then adjust the paint feed. Experiment. The thinner the paint the lower the airpressure can be and vice versa.
When spraying don’t try to cover everything in one coat. Several light coats are always better.