Its a single action airbrush starter set. I checked every connection, every part, and its still blowing air but not paint. It also neglects to list in the listing that it has a “fine fluid cap” which makes it thoroughly useless for badger paint. 20 dollars plus shipping and the canister down the drain-50 dollars in other words. So I’m not happy. http://www.micromark.com/microlux-starter-airbrush-set,11615.html that’s it BTW. Anyone have any suggestions on an actual working one? Under 50 dollars usd
How thick is the paint?
I was going to ask if you tried adjusting the screw feed on the needle, but this looks like a bit different system. I’m guessing it’s something you’ve tried already, but just wondering if any results when you tried that?
That could be an issue. I’d be reluctant to spend less than that on an airbrush. I know there are some interesting new ones out there, but no experience. I’ve got both a single and double action brush, but rarely use them. Rattle cans do most of what I need, so they’re used mostly for special work they can’t do well. Have been wanting to get into weathering more, so expect I’ll find myself using them more.
I tried twisting the cap all the way open- still blowing air.
Its badger paint, and its supposedly already thin enough for spray painting. Still, I’ll try to use paint thinner to see if that does anything.
But like I said, its just blowing air, but no paint, nor water.
Hi. It looks like a Badger clone. You need at least 40 psi, is that what you are applying? As for the nozzle, you should unscrew it by about 4 turns to get some paint. There should be a tube inside the bottle to suck the paint…
The paint is possibly too thick, unless it has a medium tip.
Also try back-flushing. That is accomplished by holding the air brush in one hand with thinner in Your container, with Your other hand hold Your finger over the tip of the air brush The air will go back into the container and create bubbles if it is not plugged and gasket seated correctly. It can make a little mess, but works. But I feel Your paint is too thick, or gasket is not seated correctly.
Good Luck!
Frank
When I got my first airbrush I practiced with distilled water not paint. It took some tinkering on my part before I was doing everything as directed. Then I tried it with paint.
Dave Nelson
Yeah…that is the bestis’ way. I believe He is using air cans also and You really can’t adjust air pressure with those…not a good thing.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
Jimmy:
Sorry to hear about your frustration. Don’t give up yet!
One lesson I just re-learned was to filter the paint EVERY time. On my last project I failed to do that and was rewarded with lumps of partially congealed paint clogging the air brush and leaving nasty little doo-dads on the painted surface. The best thing to do is to completely dis-assemble the brush to see if there is anything stuck inside.
There were some filter funnels on the same page as the air brush.
I’ll second the suggestion to practice with distilled water. If you do it on a piece of brown cardboard you will be able to see the pattern clearly.
I’ll also give the thumbs down to using the air cans[N]. If you want to do it right you will need to invest in a compressor. They don’t have to cost an arm and a leg. Here is one that includes an air brush if you have totally given up on the first one. The brush looks to have better controls than the one you bought but I have no clue as to its quality.
Here is a basic pancake style compressor for less money, but keep in mind you will have to spend money on hoses and fittings unless you want the compressor right beside you. The noise will drive you nuts.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-95275.html
Dave
A single action, external mix bottom feed airbrush (which is what you have) is a really simple device. http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Airbrushing/airbrushing_for_modelers.html (look about 1/3 the way down the page). With the problem you describe, the material flow tube could be clogged, the paint could be way too thick to flow through it, OR, since you’re not even getting water through it, the needle is too far back in the material nozzle and you’re not getting a sufficient pressure differential to lift even water into the air stream. Have you checked to make sure the vent hole in the top of the cap that screws into the paint supply jar is open? Without proper venting (i.e. the inflow of atmospheric air), the brush won’t work. It’s the pressure differential between the air in the jar and the low pressure flow through the air cap that lifts the fluid into the air stream where it is atomized. The paint jar has to be vented to maintain atmospheric pressure in the jar.
Take a look here. The very problem you describe is the first issue addressed. http://howtoairbrush.com/airbrush-problems-and-solutions/
Another site: https://sites.google.com/
I tried it again this morning.
IT WORKED!!!
Turns out I was using the incorrect cap (even though it was listed with the canister that it was needed). Tried the cap included, and it worked fine. I apologize for previous posts here, I was just frustrated with it, and the effort I went through to get it.
I’m glad it worked out. And I don’t think you need to apologize for that, it happens to all of us!
I will add my voice in recommending you ditch the air cans and get a compressor. And get one with a tank–pancake or cylinder. You will get a much smoother air flow.
Measure Twice Cut once. I cut that leg three times and it is still too short.
Nothing works right out of the box, except Frosted Flakes, speaking of which, I think I had better call our computer consultant. I think the problems on our system might be related to DNS issues.
ROAR
ROAR
LOL, Good for You. ''Be happy in your work".
Save Your money and get a decent compressor with a pancake tank. Look at some of the Air nailer one’s, then You can use it for other task’s, air in tire’s and so forth. They will come with air regulator gauge and tank pressure gauge, all built on the unit.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
When you are finished painting, be sure to clean the air brush. This includes
- blowing solvent through the brush to remove all remining paint
- remove the needle and wipe it with a paper towel dampened with solvent
- remove the tip and sight through the bore against a light background like a paper towel. I often find a drop of solvent in the tip. If I do not see white in the bore, I blow through it to remove that last little drop.
Read the label on your paint bottles, and be sure to use the correct solvent. A couple of months ago, I was using Polyscale, an acryilc, and inadvertently used mineral spirits instead of water to clean. It set up the residual acrylic paint like a rock, and I had to spend more than an hour removing the mess, including completely disassembling the brush and soaking the parts in laquer thinner for a couple of days.
Great news[dinner]
Airbrushes can be finicky. Once you’ve had a chance to use it more, it gets better.
BTW, as a suggestion, before doing your first paint job that really matter, experiment on an old junk car or even a block of wood about the same size. That will help with getting the feel of how much to put down and how angling the spray, etc works.
Jimmy - I think you have the same airbrush I have (if you bought it through Micro-Mark). While this is a good brush, it can be frustrating especially if you are just starting with airbrushing. As a scale modeler (IPMS #47035) an airbrush is a vital tool for creating authentic miniatures. I would highly recommend you go to the Kalmbach webpage and check out their books on airbrushing. While you are a train person, I would also recommend checking your local book and magazine store for FINE SCALE MODELER magazine. They often have articles on basic and advanced airbrush techniques. VERY helpful reading for the beginner.
As for the paint - NEVER trust that it is airbrush ready. Check online for the FSM table on thinning - it lists most of the current paints and gives a formula for thinning (x parts paint + x parts thinner).
Best of luck with your airbrush.
Regards
[swg]Jimmy,
Forgot to add to my previous post some suggestions on cleaning. If you do not do it each time you spray, at least periodically - if you are getting ready to do a project and have not used the brush in at least 3-4 weeks - disassemble the brush and give a through cleaning with solvent. For the tiny areas like the nozzle, using a small pipe cleaner or the tiny GUM tooth brushes. This not only helps clean any possible paint but helps lubricate the brush for use.
Speaking of use, let me add my voice to those who have recommended the purchase of a compressor (generally with tank). I purchased the one from Micro Mark (during one of their sales) and find it to be a very good match with both of my airbrushes (MicroLux & Badger). It is quiet (very important if using it IN the house) and provides a constant regulatable supply of air. The Micro Mark unit also provides a moisture separator with the regulator. When I started airbrushing, I too started with the cans & refillable tanks - these could not provide a constant, consistant source of air (always seem to run out or low rignt in the middle of a project)
If this is your first brush, be patient. As was said before, the more you use it, the better you get. You will find you will be very happy with the results - better than brushing especially for bringing out details. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me direct at nc130herk@outlook.com.
Regards,
Steve [:)]
IPMS 47035
that’s one of the problems with oiless compressors,twice as noisy than oil and cast iron cylinders.Oilless supposedly don’tlast as long either. I picked up a 115v,3 gallon oil type,can use an airbrush plus with a 75ft hose use it with a finishing nail gun inr the main floor of the house and air up car tires.