Many thanks for all the suggestions on holding an airbrush. I will probably try them all.
On the topic of holding parts, I am still undecided as the parts in question are HO scale hinges for my engine house doors. They are white plastic, are less than 1/16" X 1/8" and very thin. The amount of air needed to atomize the paint is strong enough to cause rolled masking tape to vibrate. Two sided tape is so strong, it makes removal difficult. I want them black but may just leave them white.
I airbrush between 15-25 psi…no more. If your paint needs more air to atomize, then you really need to thin it. You need to thin it to the point where there are no “particals” when you spray.
David B
For painting small parts, I find that masking tape, sticky-side-up, taped to a suitably-sized board works better than the loops. Usually, a 1’ piece of 1"x2" is sufficient: place about 8" of tape face-up on the broad face of the board, near one end, then wrap a short length of tape over each end of the strip and around the board. You can add another at the centre if the parts and tape “flutter” too much while spraying. The untaped, free end of the board makes a good handle for turning the parts for complete coverage.
Wayne
Why not just brush paint them?
For such small parts, you may find that painting using a good quality brush and paint thinned to the right consistency will give you just as a good a result as using an airbrush. When I first had my airbrush, I used it for everything and found out I had a lot of the same problems as you’re having. A paint brush didn’t look so bad at that point. [:)]
Ear ya go!
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For small detail parts like that I just use a decent brush and some craft paint from Walmart. Thin the paint a bit, you don’t want to glob it on. Use Scotch double sided tape to hold the parts or those sticks that Loathar pointed to.
For the airbrush, I agree you need to thin the paint if you painting at higher than 25 psi.
All good suggestions, but if you’re using a solvent-based paint like Floquil, brushing can dissolve some of the fine detail on styrene parts or mar the finish noticeably on larger, plain styrene surfaces.
Wayne